Pontiac Solstice Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2008 Solstice GXP
92,000 Miles
Getting repaired at dealership

Hi everyone!!

I want to first thank everyone for their support and knowledge in my maintenance woes. First the water pump, then the catalytic converter. The cat converter did NOT crack due to the rusty bolts, so we're good. Currently getting the water pump replaced (and ripped off for $1400, but I digress).

They called me today and said the cat. converter did not crack (the amount of relief I felt was unreal. I've been waiting for a week) but then followed with (and I'm using their words) "a bent pipe from the metal coolant line from turbo to block" I assure you I have no clue what that means but was told it runs the risk of overheating the turbo. Parts and labor would cost $550 to replace.

I was told the pipe was bent in a V shape and someone definitely messed it up. I asked for a photo and attached what they sent me. I've owned my solstice for 16 months, I either bought it bent and it hasn't been an issue, or they messed it up and aren't taking responsibility.

Curious if anyone can give me any advice, or even knowledge of this part and how bad this problem seems. Cant tell if they're just trying to find problems to get more money out of me or if this is really something I should consider taking care of

Thanks! : )
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,211 Posts
My $0.02. They did it. As I stated in your earlier post. The dealer, when they did my WP, accidentally cut my cat with the torch they were using to heat the bolts up. They took full responsibility and even replaced it under warranty. But, they also didn't tell me that they torched the O2 sensor. After some arguing and about 20 minutes of yelling at the service manger, it was also warrantied.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,646 Posts
Ah.

The good old "it was like that when I got here" Sweet.
 
  • Like
Reactions: squilliam

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I really would have no clue how to handle this. This is the first big car repair before so not sure how to maneuver mechanics playing games. I guess as the other commenter mentioned, contact service management and figure it out, cant imagine it'll end well

Ah.

The good old "it was like that when I got here" Sweet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Looks like a handful of people including people I've spoken to in my life are saying the mechanic probably messed it up. I may try to speak with the service manager and see what comes of it. I've had someone look under my hood twice in the 16 months of ownership, neither time do I think this piece would have been bent.

So frustrating because for one, not sure what the truth is, and if it really was the mechanic, I am not sure how I can win this. I wouldn't mind paying for the part if I must, I think they said $170, if they cover the 2.5 hour labor charge, $350

My $0.02. They did it. As I stated in your earlier post. The dealer, when they did my WP, accidentally cut my cat with the torch they were using to heat the bolts up. They took full responsibility and even replaced it under warranty. But, they also didn't tell me that they torched the O2 sensor. After some arguing and about 20 minutes of yelling at the service manger, it was also warrantied.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
I did the big wheel upgrade on my Sky and help my buddy with the same upgrade on his Sol. I'm looking at that photo trying to figure out what I'm seeing. The water and oil supply and return lines are polished stainless with some heat shielding in some places. I'm not seeing that in the photo. Per the service manual, the coolant return line is the lower of the two banjo bolts on the side of the turbo.

Aside from accidentally prying on it somehow while working near the catalytic converter or trying to yoink the turbo off with it still attached, I don't see how it could get bent while on the car.

Regardless, I think a coolant-starved turbo would self-destruct very quickly. There's very, very little chance you've been driving the car around with the return tube crimped mostly closed.
109308
109309
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
That looks like one of the soft coolant lines that goes from the thermostat to a T that splits between the rest of the cooling system and the oil cooler on the back driver's side of the engine. It does not look disturbed and could probably be adjusted to correct the "bend". I have seen this once before on a friend's Sky. I assure you that $550 is a ridiculous amount to fix this issue. I was able to adjust my friend's and it did not take very long. As for the mechanic playing games, it is unfortunate that there are bad actors out there ruining my reputation for me. I hope that you are not dealing with that kind of person.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,646 Posts
I really would have no clue how to handle this. This is the first big car repair before so not sure how to maneuver mechanics playing games. I guess as the other commenter mentioned, contact service management and figure it out, cant imagine it'll end well

It's not easy. A lot of people would tell you "I would never let them do that to ME", and it's 100% nonsense. It's just people acting big.

Any time I have successfully argued with a dealer shop and won is when I can clearly see they are lying, or being stupid. Like the Chevy dealer that put the rear wheels on the front of my 2012 Camaro 1SS, or when the Buick dealer tried to charge me for a new battery when the issue was a loose battery cable, or when the same shop tried to fail my car's inspection (because it needed about a grand worth of work, according to them). I asked them to show me on the State Inspection exactly where my car was failing the inspection for the "fault". They couldn't do it.

And even then, in each case I had to raise Holy Old Hell, right in their service area, in front of their other customers. I even had to get a GM service center to call GM tech right in front of me. And I was 100% right on the issue and they were 100% stupid and had 100% screwed up my car. But to go all-in like that, you need confidence you are clearly and prove-ably correct. And it's never fun, in my experience. You have to pick the right hill to die on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: porky133

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,646 Posts
That looks like one of the soft coolant lines that goes from the thermostat to a T that splits between the rest of the cooling system and the oil cooler on the back driver's side of the engine. It does not look disturbed and could probably be adjusted to correct the "bend". I have seen this once before on a friend's Sky. I assure you that $550 is a ridiculous amount to fix this issue. I was able to adjust my friend's and it did not take very long. As for the mechanic playing games, it is unfortunate that there are bad actors out there ruining my reputation for me. I hope that you are not dealing with that kind of person.
The issue is, everyone is vocal about the bad ones and not vocal about good ones.

You're a good one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for your response. They sent me the photo and said it's kinked at the bottom. I am confused if something was bent into a V shape that wasn't meant to, how would it be fitting fine as it's supposed to... I am going to pick in up in an hour, going to have someone show me this pipe and I'll assess it myself with my Uncle, because it's starting to sound like some bs.

It's interesting because they called me on Thursday to say the cat. converter didn't crack OH BUT WAIT we found another problem please hand over $550 or else youre going to blow your turbo... and then called yesterday saying the car is done and didn't ask me about the pipe or if I want to get it done..... nothing. So, they tell me a problem and then pretend like it's not?

It's just feeling really weird and unsettling.
I'll give an update later on, thanks again.

That looks like one of the soft coolant lines that goes from the thermostat to a T that splits between the rest of the cooling system and the oil cooler on the back driver's side of the engine. It does not look disturbed and could probably be adjusted to correct the "bend". I have seen this once before on a friend's Sky. I assure you that $550 is a ridiculous amount to fix this issue. I was able to adjust my friend's and it did not take very long. As for the mechanic playing games, it is unfortunate that there are bad actors out there ruining my reputation for me. I hope that you are not dealing with that kind of person.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
I know this is an older thread, But if this comes up again this is going to show what exactly is "bent" in the photo supplied by the OP.

109476



The red text and lines in the above photo are what the OP's photo is of. The 3/4" coolant hose DOES NOT go to the turbo. It connects the outlet on the oil cooler to the smaller pipe on the water neck (thermostat housing). The image above is if you are standing where the drivers door hinges and looking between the engine and the firewall. It is a really tight spot to get into and you may want to pull your coil packs and climb on top of the engine. Be careful when doing this not to break anything. You will want to have on some kind of knee padding to do this. When you are up on top of the engine it is far easier to get your hands behind the engine.

The lines as shown in the OP's photo is not the OE line. It is also not the correct line. The hose that is in there is a piece of 3/4" heater hose , it is not the OE molded hose. Where this is located is a sharp turn and difficult to not have the line kink. It has to be cut to a very specific length and usually requires you to put it in and take it out several times trimming it in order to get it to fit without kinking if you use a standard piece of 3/4" hose.

I am going to tell you this. that mechanic replaced the OE hose when he cut it to get the water neck and coolant housing off the side of the block. The housing MUST be removed in order to get the pipe out of the back of the water pump in order to replace the pump. That means that these lines MUST get disconnected in order to do that. I know that the mechanic did this because the hose that is in there is white, but it is clean as a whistle... I find that really odd. White heater hose is not a common thing. I am wiling to bet you that if you look in the bay you will see the same exact line hanging up somewhere. This portion of doing the water pump is by far the hardest part of the whole job. getting the lines disconnected back there is a royal pain. I spent over an hour messing with this part of it myself on my own car.

550.00 to replace this part is ripping you off. It takes an hour labor at most and the part I believe is around 30.00. You still should not be replacing this part they should be.

I do want to ask a question. Was the water pump repair completed and then they contacted you about it? or was it still in pieces? From what I am seeing is the job had been completed and then they contacted you. If there was a problem all work should have stopped right where they were at and then you should have gotten contacted.

The guy cut the line to make it easier to get the housing out then put the new line on attaching it when the housing was not get bolted into place. Once they bolted it into place they then realized that there is no way that the hose they put in was going to work. They then decided to try to make you pay additional for their mess up.


My next question is why did they have to do anything with the cat in order to do the water pump???

The water pump can be replaced without touching the cat. The turbo does not have to be removed in order to replace the pump either. There is a single coolant line that runs from the turbo to the coolant housing that needs to be unbolted from the housing. The air intake and the air outlet from the turbo also need to be disconnected and those are the only things that need to be done to the turbo. The housing can be unbolted and moved out of the way to pull the pipe out without the need to remove the turbo or the cat. If they did in fact remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold I am willing to bet you that the lower right bolt is not tightened properly. I am also willing to bet they probably did not put the turbo to block brace back in.

The other thing is this and I do hate to be the bringer of bad news. They bent the oil cooler coolant outlet line. The metal one that comes off the oil cooler. You can see it because if you look at the top clamp in your photo it is resting against the firewall. It is not supposed to be this way. If an attempt is made to bend it back it may break off the oil cooler. This is going to result in the engine having to be pulled to replace the cooler.

I will post some photos of what it looks like behind the block so you can see what I am talking about. you can use this photo as a reference if you decide to go back into the shop to get it corrected. I would not have them do the work and also before you go in there I would go to a GM dealership (on that is reputable) and have them do an inspection. Have them check for missing/bent parts and also have them check the tightness of the bolts on the turbo and cat. You will want to go to a dealership that is familiar with the solstice and where things should be. Someone that has done more then one water pump replacement by the same shop tech is ideally what you want. They may do it as a courtesy if you tell them that you will have them do the repairs after you bring up the issues with and estimate to repair with the other shop. If they will not do it as a courtesy it should cost you an hours labor so about 125.00.

I am telling you with 100% certainty that the shop that did the repair cut the OE hose to get the coolant housing out and replaced the hose with the incorrect one. They probably bent the oil cooler line when trying to slide the clamps down to get the OE pipe off. A white line that is buried behind the block is not going to look brand new if this problem was there before they touched the car.

Here is a photo of the side of the block where the pipe is that needs to be removed in order to change the water pump

109477





109478



as you can see in the second photo that pipe runs under the turbo. once that housing is unbolted and move back the pipe can be pulled out of the back of the water pump and then removed by taking the pipe out from the front of the engine under the turbo. There is no need to unbolt the cat or the turbo to do this.

That bracket you see in the bottom photo I am thinking they probably may not have put back in. It has to be taken out in order to get to one of the bolts that holds the turbo in. This is if they removed the turbo.

if they charged you 1400 to do the job I am at least hoping that they replaced the entire pump including the gear. If they used the tool and only did a 1/2 pump replacement I would be screaming. This job if doing a 1/2 pump replacement should have cost no more then 1000.00 and even that is on the high side by 100.00 or so dollars. If they did do a complete pump replacement did they also change the timing chain guides and the rest of the pieces that should be replaced since they had to take the chain off?

When I did my water pump I did a 1/2 pump replacement, I had never replaced one on these cars before and it took me 6 hours to complete. You are not responsible for paying for tools needed to complete the job unless then handed you the tools when they finished. Check your invoice and make sure there is no kind of a tool charge on there. If there is go and pick up your tools or get the money refunded.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top