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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently had to replace my clutch and learned a few things I will kind of put in one place for future clutch replacement needs.

According to what I have read, you should not resurface the stock flywheel, not to say many have not been successful doing it anyway, but if you are using a Spec clutch they have a special way it should be done. I replaced mine with a Spec flywheel that is 15 lbs lighter than stock I highly recommend it, the turbo spools up so much faster its really nice, it also holds rpms better between shifts.

You are supposed to replace all the flywheel bolts as they are one time use, they are about $4 each, I did replace mine you need 8 if I remember right.

Now on the clutch we don't have many options, Spec is the only major player there are others but Spec is the easiest I ordered mine and had it in 3 days with flywheel.

I am not sure all versions need the slave spacer but I would recommend it, moves engagement about an inch off the floor.

Lots of debate on which model from Spec, I think most go with the Stage 3 +, I have read it is pretty stiff and hard to feather from a stop. This is the one Dave from DDM recommends most often from what I have read. I did not want a heavy clutch, I believe you can put too heavy a clutch in a car, did that in my sons GTO and I hated driving the car as did my son so we got to replace it again. I called the other Dave from Werks for a second opinion, he recommended the Spec Stage 2 without the SAC (self adjusting clutch). It has way more than enough torque handling for my car, unless you have done major engine work it should handle even turbo upgraded cars.

OK I have about 500 miles on my clutch and here is what I have learned, it takes forever to get all the air out of the self bleeding slave, make sure you overfill the master cylinder or it won't ever finish bleeding (thanks Critterman) I filled it to the max fill line and it was not bleeding like it should, after I over filled it I finally got the air out. My clutch engages about an inch off the floor seems better than it was stock. I can feather the clutch at stop lights with a little effort. I am very pleased with the setup I bought other than the fact it was just a shade under $1200! It is without a doubt the biggest pain in the azz to change of any clutch I have ever done.
 

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Thanks for the info.Im trying to nurse mine til tax returns,but havent decided if I just wanna go back stock or not.
 

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Good info, I'll have to remember for when mine goes, I too will be nursing mine for the following months after the turbo install in my base

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I have the stage 3 and I didn't change the clutch slave and it didn't engage until the clutch peddle was right on the floor. So I purchased the spacer and still left the same slave and throw out bearing in. It still did disengage untill the peddle was right on the floor and made for a nasty time trying to power shift. I also have the aluminum fly wheel and like how it keeps the revs up. Bottm line is I have to replace the syncros in the tranny, which I currently have dissasembled and will put together this week. I also plan on replacing the slave and throw out bearing and will use the spacer too. I sure hope I get that peddle off the floor, it is almost making me think about an automatic.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
As I did mine in a friends garage on jack stands, I figured the new slave and throw out was cheap insurance on going back under the car, my assistant who did most of the work was home on leave for Christmas, best present my son ever gave me.

Some tips

with car on ground unhook the line to the slave, just remove the spring clip and plug the hoses, then undo the starter bolts from under the hood, a 13mm if I remember right. The two wrenches you will use the most are 13 mm and 18 mm.

When you get under the car drop the exhaust, then go ahead and drop the differential, you will need a fork for the ball joint.

The bolts on top of tranny will test you you will need an extension as long as the tranny (or two), stick your head up in the tunnel after the torque arm is gone and look at the top of the tranny you will see them, you will also need a swivel adapter. Most of the rest is typical for a clutch change except that damn heavy torque arm
 

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This is interesting. I remember SOB doing a clutch change a couple of years ago and how he groused about it.

I am interested in the comments about lighter flywheels holding revs better. I thought it was the other way around. More mass, more momentum, slower rev changes up and down. So I had understood lighter flywheels gave greater throttle response up and down, meaning they did not hold revs.

What am I missing in this?
 

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I am also in the process of rebuilding the engine so everything is out and when I put the line on the slave I will have the engine out so it shouldn't be much of a problem making sure it is full of fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It was some of SOB's comments that helped me get through the job successfully, he did an even lighter flywheel than I did with a 9 lb instead of a 12 lb, both are a lot less than 27 lb's. I would also think that inertia would keep the heavier flywheel spinning longer, not how it turns out I guess just do to the requirement of less energy to keep motor spinning. Mine spins up MUCH faster, I hit almost 30 psi if I stand on it. I think I am going to have Westers limit my boost a little, when the clutch hits now it's like a hammer. It is taking forever to get my slave bled all the way, I may have to put some vacuum on it after 600 miles I am still getting bubbles and the fluid level drops. It also seems I am doing less RPM's to maintain a certain speed, engine is just more efficient.
 

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I have the stage 3 and I didn't change the clutch slave and it didn't engage until the clutch peddle was right on the floor. So I purchased the spacer and still left the same slave and throw out bearing in. It still did disengage untill the peddle was right on the floor and made for a nasty time trying to power shift. I also have the aluminum fly wheel and like how it keeps the revs up. Bottm line is I have to replace the syncros in the tranny, which I currently have dissasembled and will put together this week. I also plan on replacing the slave and throw out bearing and will use the spacer too. I sure hope I get that peddle off the floor, it is almost making me think about an automatic.
If you look at Wade's Garage build thread for LS swaps, one of the things he does is change the length of the actuating arm on the clutch pedal to modify the throw. If you lengthen the rod slightly, you get "more pedal" by effectively moving more fluid earlier. Just a thought.
 

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Bumping an old thread. MY recently aquired 06 is in need of a clutch and I am curious if anyone has modified the arm for more throw?
 
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