Pontiac Solstice Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Not that I needed to make any more modifications. This one I just lucked out. I happen to find a taillight on Ebay and the other one from Flaagan at really good prices. I love the look of leds strips and halos but I thought I would also add laser etching (not sure I'm happy with it but its done). I went to a local trophy shop for the etching and purchased the leds, morimoto halos (Thanks Cartmann) and led converter. After reading threads from Cartmann and Tomato soup, I'd thought I'd give it a go.

First I had to open the light with a dremel tool. Not easy and be really careful because nicks or burning off too much just happens. I dremeled off and it was like the glue was plastic. Once it cooled, it was back to being just as hard. Work you way around till you eventually pop it off.

Next I lined up the led strips. No they are not perfect but usable.



Next I drilled out the center for the MR-16 light for the brake and turn signal light and then did the same for the halo. These halos are burn your retina's bright but once the cover are over them, they are great.













So here is my dilemma. I couldn't get the wiring to light properly. The led converter has three wires. Black, Red and Green. I placed the MR16 on a black and one on green and the halo and led strips on black and red. Once connected, the led strip and halo would light up (halo fully) but the mr16 would not light with it when braking or turn signal. I reversed the plug and then only the halo would show half light and then shine fully on brake or turn. No MR16 on either. I have checked the light and it does work so my issue is wiring and how it connects to the plug in.


Any suggestion would be grateful.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
handsdown incredible mod wow!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, I hope the mr16 illuminates the etching but I don't think I sized it properly or etched deep enough. We'll see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I decided to go the easy way and just wire three simple welds to the back socket. Hazah, it now works properly!!!

Halo and LED's only



With Brake and Turn light



Now I need to glue the cover back on and niteshade it. I tried permatech glue weld for plastic for the etching and halo and it did really well but it doesn't allow a surgical line to make it look clean. Its just mix and spread on. Any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,433 Posts
Depending upon your budget, this might be an option. 3M sells two-part epoxies in dual cartridge containers that use an applicator "gun" and a mixing nozzle. I'd use a clear version of the epoxy in a heartbeat mostly because we have a couple of the applicators where I work and I wouldn't have to buy one. BUT, you can put a small opening in the tip and get a pretty consistent bead especially with the higher viscosity formulae.

McMaster-Carr
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the option. That glue and gun are almost more that what I paid for all the materials. I'm sure it would work but I'll have to keep looking around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,433 Posts
Consider that the rear lenses are acrylic or styrene (fronts are polycarbonate for impact resistance) and you can solvent bond them. Like model cement - the solvent softens the surfaces and they "melt" together. 2 issues - not "clean" and if you don't have a good coating you don't have a watertight seal.

Silicone would work but if you don't have a very clean surface (and even if you do) it may not bond as well as you need.

I'd still consider an epoxy maybe with a cheap syringe you can use to apply it. If you hold the tip against one finger while you drag the adjacent fingertip along the edge as you dispense it, you should be able to get a clean line and a good seal as well as the strength you need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,161 Posts
I'd still consider an epoxy maybe with a cheap syringe you can use to apply it. If you hold the tip against one finger while you drag the adjacent fingertip along the edge as you dispense it, you should be able to get a clean line and a good seal as well as the strength you need.
Another tip - at least with the epoxies I've used - Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol at the 90+% strength will wipe away uncured epoxy, so if you make a mistake, or overflow/mar, you can clean it up if you do it quickly.

Try it first on something else though, to make sure it works with the epoxy you use and to get the hang of it :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I have wired the second taillight and look to place the lenses today, I hope (pending honey do list).

I will be using a 5 minute permatex plastic glue weld. I tried another glue epoxy on a test piece but it didn't stick well. This stuff you need to mix fast because in 3 minutes (not 5) it is hardened up. I will use the other glues dispenser to create the clean line I need for the edges. Downside is it cures yellow but I will be niteshading the lights to clear the imperfections dremeling makes so it won't be noticed anyways.

I hope it all works...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Also the laser etching didn't turn out the way I wanted. I guess the etch was not deep enough to illuminate or the light was not focused on it properly. You can see it if you are standing next to it but not from a distance. Oh well, I tried.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,441 Posts
The laser etching will be one of thos subtle things you don't notice right away. :cool:

What DID you etch in there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
It was a design Windrestrictor did with me for my WR. I cleared it up for just the center piece.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I should also add that WR was not able to help in this etching project. I'm sure it would have looked much better if I was able to use them on this. I tried to use a local trophy shop and they did what I asked but... ehh...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
The honey do list of the day took too long and I didn't have enough glue to hit both lenses soooo. I'll have to do it for another day. Here are pics so far. Again they are not in placed on correctly and the trunk lid is not fully down. Just shots to see the far away effect.

Halo close



Brake light



Running lights



With Brake lights

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Almost there!!!

Yesterday I taped around the light on the car to re-glue the lens back on. I would suggest when dremeling off the lens not to completely clean off the portion around the edges. I did for one and not the other and the one not cleared set easier back in place. Now it is glued in place and waiting for it to cure. Then I will take off the car and extra glue the sides for better adhesion and complete sealing. Next week I will do the niteshade.

Lit and lens off



All taped up and ready for Plastic weld/epoxy.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Follow up,

I finished gluing the lenses back on and took out for a test drive. Point A to Point B and everything was good. Lights on, lenses on and lights stayed place. Returning to Point A and running lights (LED's and Halos) were out. Brake lights still worked. The 15 amp fuse popped. Added another and pop!

Reading about these Morimoto LED's and I needed to add a 12V relay to make them work properly. Come to find out I also burned out the small resistor that comes attached to them. I have now ordered a second set and the relay and will wire in once they arrive. I will wire the halos to the relay, LED strips to the running light line and keep the MR16 on the brake line.

Its going to stink having to wire through the car to get to the battery and tap into the fuse line but... Almost there.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top