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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,
I have a 2007 Automatic Solstice GXP and I've installed Trifecta tune two month ago.

In the middle of driving today I had a loss of power and it seems that my turbo is probably gone (I will take it to the garage tomorrow).

If I need to replace the turbo I would want to get an upgrade and not just stay with the GXP one.
I saw the recommendation for a Mitsubishi 16g turbo here:
DEJON | Powerhouse

What do you think about it?
Do I need to replace anything else in my car in order for it to fit?

My car is stock (except for the trifecta tune).

Thanks
 

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2009 Mysterious GXP Coupe #100
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You sure you didn't just blow off one of the charge (air) pipes? I've seen that happen with an increase of boost...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had someone look at it for a second and he told me he felt some oil there so it's maybe the turbo itself (i'm not an expert).

I'll just take it to the garage tomorrow but I want to know what to do if it is the turbo itself.

If i'll be replacing it I would like to get an upgrade and not just pay a lot of money for staying in the same level.
 

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Unlikely that your turbo would blow without a great deal of noise over a longish period. Even if the bearings were going, it would still boost.

I'm guessing you hit limp mode, probably because of a boost leak. Either as Liquid said, due to intake clamps/hoses, or maybe a ballooned intercooler.

Don't get too panicked yet. I've seen very few turbo's go on these cars... probably something far more simple and cheap.
 

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The trifecta tune can result in oil in the charge tubes. See the thread on oil catch can. It is much more likely that you had a factory clamp let go and already had some residual oil there.

Check the threads about T clamps.
 

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Odds that the turbo is toast: 1 out of 100

Odds that you have a boost leak somewhere in the charge system resulting in P0101 code and Limp Mode: 99 out of a 100.

Odds that the "oil felt there" is just a result of blow by from a stuck check valve on the upper braided steel line that vents pressure from the engine head: 80 out of a 100.
 

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However if you still need and excuse to replace the turbo, you have quite a few choices.
DDM, Werks, Hahn.
All are vendors here and they have some nice upgraded turbos.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys,
I'll review the threads about the problems you mentioned.
I don't have lights or any error codes (I checked using a scanner).

I shot two videos today so if you have any insights I would love to know.

GXP with Problem:
GXP with Turbo Problem? - YouTube

GXP with no problem:
GXP with no Turbo Problem (for comparison) - YouTube

Tomorrow I'll go to the garage and have them look at it and also print this thread for them to see.

In the worst case scenario that I do need to replace the turbo it's a bit problematic for me to import a turbo part because importing upgraded car parts is not legal.
But if the Mitsubishi 16g turbo is ok then I can get it locally.
 

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Definitely an abnormal sound. But if the car is not boosting correctly, there should be a code by now.

I know you can get some pretty weird sounds if there is boost leak, but I have not heard anything quite like that before. It does sound like a possible failure. If you have lost the turbo, then you have won the bad lotto. They just don't fail very often.
 

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I have blown more turbos than I can remember, that one does not sound like any of them. Take the inlet tube off and let the engine run, look for rubbing on the housing check for play and in and out play. I had turbos that had some oil on the cold side run for thousand of miles. Sometimes its oil that is dumped from the bypass or breathers.

Also I ran a 16g on a forged 1.6 Honda, don't do it. You can get a 16g turbo for 150 dollars that will work for a few days. Or you can buy a 16g turbo for 1800 dollars that will last forever. For that money you could get a great garret turbo that will blow all your pistons out the exhaust. Go dual ball bearing and go twinscroll the 16g is too old, there are better designs in the market. I grew tired of my 16g and went to garret, I also blew it 3 times. Most are also watercooled
 

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Youre idling WAY too high for starters. I idle at 750...
 

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But if the Mitsubishi 16g turbo is ok then I can get it locally.
You're going to need a bunch of parts to get that 16g to fit right, dejon does a lot of modifications to it, it doesn't just bolt up.
As for the sound its possibly a boost leak, go over every vacuum line and host clamp and see if they're tight.
 

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I don't think a 16g pulled from a Mitsu and dropped into a solstice will be an upgrade at all. The solstice has a twinscroll, a dyno proven modified 16g maybe but there are so many better upgrades.

I doubt that turbo is blown also.
 

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If you buy a bolt on turbo it will come with what you need, gaskets etc
If it was me and I was going aftermarket and wanted to keep things simple, I would choose the DDM.
 

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I can vouch for the DDM turbo upgrade, but be sure to get the install kit-it makes life much easier. You will also need a blow off Valve, and the Synapse is a good one. Also highly recommend T-bolt clamps. If finances are not an issue, the happy meal is the best way to go. Hopefully you didn't get the budget tune...
 

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If you go aftermarket turbo, you will need a retune.....
 

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For aftermarket options, I'd only go with a Borg Warner EFR turbo. Fastest spool, newest technology, best out there imo.

Since vendors here have disappeared with that option. zzperformance has them. And they have a ton of 2.0 LNF experience.

I'd go with a 6258, but many say go more which would be a 6758.

ZZPerformance - ZFR Turbo #ZZ-ZFR
 

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rolla rage has a low mileage stock turbo for sale. Check the For Sale section. This would be a straight swap and go.
 
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