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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for the GXP as I'd like a roadster with at least 250whp and it seems to fit the bill.

Any know issues with the car? Seems like HPFP can go bad if people drive it under 1/4 tank. Water pump leaks might be common. Both fixes seem to be under $500 in parts and I can do labor myself.

Do DI engines have carbon build up on heads like bmw n54 does? At least it doesn't have wastegate or injector issues. Also HPFP in bmw was around $1k or more for parts.

Auto or stick? Auto can hold more power? I'd like to try and push 350whp with a bigger turbo if possible down the road. But I'm content with the 280-290whp with a tune. Auto would allow my wife to drive it so that's a plus.

Buying options are limited around here. There's manual GXPs with 100k miles for $8-9k. Or I can get a 07-08 with around 45-65k miles for about $14k in either auto or stick. I can swap parts and do fluid changes so I'm not scared of doing some maintenance. Rebuilding engine or trans is beyond me though. Which is a better buying option?

I'm leaning towards the 100k cars. I figure it'll probably need the water pump, plugs, all fluids replaced, plugs, maybe brake pads and rotors and possibly shocks. Brakes and suspension I'd probably like to upgrade anyways so I don't mind if they are worn out. Might need a clutch too and I can upgrade that. Kinda concerned about the turbo's life as they can be a couple thousand to replace.

So I guess I'm basically asking if it's a bad idea to buy this car with 100k miles and should I opt for one with half that mileage but at a good 60-70& price increase?
 

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There is a very nice Sky Redline with 32K on it for 12.5 listed on this site and the Sky forum.

Lower miles normally means better treatment I think. I would tend to look for that. 100K with the right person taking care of it can be a great car, another person, nothing but junk. Look at them carefully, you have an idea of what the problems are or could be.
 

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I'm looking for the GXP as I'd like a roadster with at least 250whp and it seems to fit the bill.

Any know issues with the car? Seems like HPFP can go bad if people drive it under 1/4 tank. Water pump leaks might be common. Both fixes seem to be under $500 in parts and I can do labor myself.

Do DI engines have carbon build up on heads like bmw n54 does? At least it doesn't have wastegate or injector issues. Also HPFP in bmw was around $1k or more for parts.

Auto or stick? Auto can hold more power? I'd like to try and push 350whp with a bigger turbo if possible down the road. But I'm content with the 280-290whp with a tune. Auto would allow my wife to drive it so that's a plus.

Buying options are limited around here. There's manual GXPs with 100k miles for $8-9k. Or I can get a 07-08 with around 45-65k miles for about $14k in either auto or stick. I can swap parts and do fluid changes so I'm not scared of doing some maintenance. Rebuilding engine or trans is beyond me though. Which is a better buying option?

I'm leaning towards the 100k cars. I figure it'll probably need the water pump, plugs, all fluids replaced, plugs, maybe brake pads and rotors and possibly shocks. Brakes and suspension I'd probably like to upgrade anyways so I don't mind if they are worn out. Might need a clutch too and I can upgrade that. Kinda concerned about the turbo's life as they can be a couple thousand to replace.

So I guess I'm basically asking if it's a bad idea to buy this car with 100k miles and should I opt for one with half that mileage but at a good 60-70& price increase?
Responding to some of your particular questions... The HPFP can go wrong, but it's rare. The Water Pump failure is far more common and unfortunately it's not an easy repair - there are detailed how-to's around though.

I'm sure that the engine is subject to carbon build and some have reported having to get them cleaned, but most here probably have lower mileage and haven't seen that issue.

Get a stick! Auto's with the GMPP (factory) tune have the torque reduced over that of the manuals, so GM must've been wary of power-handling.

Turbo's are pretty rare to fail, and there's plenty of cheap take-offs around anyway (from folks that have upgraded).
 

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Welcome, these are great cars if you know what to look for.

Regarding carbon build up, we've discussed it a couple times and a couple of the forum vendors do offer carbon build up cleaning services, but I'd say that's only good if you live in their vicinity. Here's one such thread:
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f11/direct-injection-carbon-build-up-article-vid-108817/


Waterpumps fall under the no rhyme or reason category, some go early, others do not. Some swear that adding water pump lubricant to the antifreeze will help prevent water pump failure, others say not so much.


Passenger side air bag sensor are another expensive issue, do not under any circumstances put a knee or step on seats. Factor repair price into a car that has a bad one. We have a member checking into getting the NHTSA involved.


Learn the cars jacking points, and where to look for damage when someone else didn't, & how to close the hood and truck lids are also important w/these cars.


See this thread to give yourself an idea of what cars for sale w/20,000 miles (or less) are being priced at: http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f30/cool-kappa-verts-4sale-83266/. If the car is a 2.0 GXP it will be listed in the description above the link, if GXP isn't listed than you can assume it is a 2.4.


The most popular colors are black, silver, grey, dark blue, burgundy & red. Fresh (neon bluish) is probably the hardest color to find, Mean (yellow), Envious (dark green), Brazen (orange), and a 2009 medium blue are the less popular (and some would say that's what makes them more desirable) colors.


Also, I would encourage you to consider cars from all areas of the USA in order to find the color, mileage, and options you want.

https://www.facebook.com/SaveTheManuals/
 

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A couple answers.....

Yes, carbon build-up does happen, no matter what you do. You CANNOT do a fuel induction cleaning because it will destroy the turbo bearings. Walnut blasting is the easiest way to get rid of it, but you're talking about $1000 to have it done.

Yes, waterpumps are an issue and about $1200 to have it done at a dealer. If you chose to do it yourself, you must be pretty mechanically inclined because there are VERY specific instructions about keeping the timing chain from moving.

Yes, HPFP do fail. They are expensive just for the part. We just seen them for $250, but most average $500

Yes, there is an airbag issue on the passenger side if you put your knee on the seat

It's very possible to get these cars to 300+HP with a little bit of $$$.

If you're going for a 100k+ mile car, expect WP, brakes, shocks, springs, bushings, clutch (if it hasn't been done), all the fluids, brake, oil, coolant, trans, power steering.... Watch for rear end leaks, the diffs are very hard to come by and extremely expensive.... $2k+. You might even expect a timing chain at that mileage because of the chain guides.... Check the driveshaft and make sure the rubber donut is still intake at the diff and not missing any bolts. Make sure the 3 bolts that hold the hubs on are all there (each wheel).

Now that I've said all that, these cars are incredible. Think affordable. But they can be as complex as Ferraris to fix. There are very specific instructions for a lot of the repairs. But the cars are worth it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Where are you located ?
Mendocino CA. I'll probably be restricted to a CA car so I won't encounter issues trying to register it.

Also looks like I can only get the GMPP tune. Ideally I'd like to be able to switch the tune off but that's not an option with this tune.


The water pump is concerning but I have changed pumps that were driven by the timing belt. Usually requires a kit from OTC to keep it in time while changing out the pump. Hopefully there's one for this car and the procedure isn't too difficult. Perhaps just do the timing chain guides at the same time though I'll have to check and see how involved that is as well. This is the only issue really concerning me about the car at the moment.
 

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Mendocino CA. I'll probably be restricted to a CA car so I won't encounter issues trying to register it.

Also looks like I can only get the GMPP tune. Ideally I'd like to be able to switch the tune off but that's not an option with this tune.
I think that the Trifecta tune is the only one you can switch on and off, but I may be wrong. Why do you need to? Do they check that in CA testing?
 

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I think that the Trifecta tune is the only one you can switch on and off, but I may be wrong. Why do you need to? Do they check that in CA testing?
FWIW, the GMPP tune is the only one that comes with a CARB sticker which makes it legal in California, at least I'm not aware of any other tune that has been certified by CARB.

:dunno:

.
 

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I think that is correct - but academic if they don't check for a reprogram they way a GM dealer would.
 

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I have trifecta budget tune and it can be switched on and off thru my traction control switch.
Traction On = Tune On
Traction Off = Tune Off

This is so that you do not have all that boost without control of the traction

Cheers??
 

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I think you should check again, my understanding from Trifecta was opposite of what you posted! Of course you can chose what turns the tune on and off. You can use your cruise control button instead. Cruise on, tune on....cruise off, tune off.... You don't need to link it to your traction control with Trifecta. You can chose one of the 2 to turn it on and off.
 

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Trifecta originally offered several options. The normal one using the TC button was default to off when the TC button was left alone - the state it is in every time you fire the car up. Then the new tune was implemented when you went to competition mode with the TC button. makes sense - extra power used with less TC control should = extra attention from driver. In practice a bit of a pain to remember to hit the button every time you fired up and not as safe a way to drive as being able to have the extra power, but with the TC max setting for inclement weather/road conditions.

They also offered the cruise control as the trigger, and the default was that the tune came on when the cruise was off, which sounds like it makes sense. I preferred to have the tune on when the cruise was on as I would see the light and unless you used the other cruise related controls to set speed etc. nothing else happened as result of having it on. I had Trifecta reverse the tune so it was only on when my cruise was on.

My reason for that was that I added the Trifecta over the GMPP during my warranty period (and later on, the big wheel turbo plus enhanced Trifecta while still under warranty) and I wanted to take it in for service without worrying that the mechanics wonder why the readings didn't match GMPP.

Oddly enough, although they also did this for at least one other customer, Trifecta later was telling people that they couldn't have the tune come on when the cruise came on. Go figure - maybe they just didn't want to be bothered.

Confusing enough?
 

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When I had the tune installed by BNR Jerry told me that I had a choice of using the cruise control or the traction control
I opted for traction control option
The explanation from Jerry was that typically I would always have the traction control engaged (on) when the tune was engaged (on) for more traction for the added hp/torque

Am I missing something?
 

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Yes - many people want the extra power NOT when the nanny controls are on but when they are turned off, for instance in a slalom/solo competition, when you want all control to be in the driver, not the computer.
 

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Ok
I guess that does make sense if you slalom/solo or enjoy the odd donut or power slide.
Can't say I do any of those so pretty sure I went with the way I described.
More power = more control

Cheers??
 
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