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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Got the 100% acetone and it did not work. Went to my product stash and was going to use black shoe polish to try to mask areas and I found this (see pic). I think this was a group buy that Chicken Wire put together years ago. I stashed it away just in case one day I might need it. That day came. I will spray again but i think it looks better than it did.
 

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While a spray can of acetone may be convenient, buying a quart liquid will offer more control with the cotton swab (Q-Tip) or fine modeling detail brush. I'd be tempted to take the door panel off so it could lay flat and you can control the pooling of the acetone rather than have it simply run off. At least that way you could experiment with how long to leave it on the glue residue. Gravity is working against you with the door panel on the door. Just a thought.
For that matter you could build a slight "dam" with blue painter's tape to isolate the liquid. That may even work as a barrier with a heat gun, although I'd want to experiment with glue residue on another surface to test the usefulness (or danger) of a heat gun.

Good luck. We all know how even if someone else may not see a flaw, we know it's there to drive us nuts!

Take care,
Richard Snipes
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Sprayed it again with prefix. I can live with it now.... I think. Tomorrow I install the ring. This Prefix stuff is really neat. The interior of our cars has so much plastic that is prone to scratching. Shot of this stuff and gone. I will also “armour all” it when I do the rest of the interior plastic. I know some of you don’t like the shine of Armour All but I like it and do it once a year. Thanks for all of the input and stay well. ?
 

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The spray can is "perfix" - not spray acetone. It's used to conceal blemishes and imperfections on molded plastic parts.
Learned something new. Will have to research this stuff. Thanks. (Plus made the mistake of following the acetone sub-topic...I think, where we were talking about removing the glue residue.)

Richard Snipes
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yes. They fit precisely into the trough around the speaker. Been a few days now and the one I have installed is firmly in there. Really easy to do.
 

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It looks better, North, but would still drive me batty. If it were me, I'd consider knocking down some of the rough areas with some sandpaper / scraping lightly, and spraying the whole panel down outside of the car.

The Perfix is a decent product, but you're dealing with something that was intended to help molders cover up cosmetic issues on new products. We picked something that was closest to the color of the polypropylene black on the door panels and it looks pretty good. The problem is you're dealing with varying degrees of fade on panels that are 10-14 years old. When you great a local area it improves it's appearance, but it's darker than the surrounding panel in most cases.

4501 - Perfix is only available commercially. I can get it through my employer as I work in the plastics industry. That's why we did a "group" buy many years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks Chickenwire. I will probably take a go at sanding it a touch. Having the Perfix gives me confidence. I live in a condo so I don’t have a garage / workshop so I won’t be taking the door off. I am going to look into buying a cordless screw driver with a sanding / grinding option. Stay tuned.:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #32
The Rotary Tool that I ordered through Amazon arrived yesterday. Went at it today. A little sanding and grinding. With my limited skill I think this is as good as I can get it. Will install speaker ring tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Here are the two of them installed. Next up I have ordered a set of tweeter surrounds in the same brushed aluminum. When I am done I think it will all tie in nicely. Have also replaced the DDM Console plastic cup holders with metal ones and I have the Santana billet cup holder on the side. Will post pics of the completed look when done.
 

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