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Take it from someone who just finished sorting out a $4000 Solstice..... you'll save money buying the $11,250 one:wink:
 

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Was that $4000 Solstice an NA or a GXP?
This was a gxp, but none of the expenses have been gxp related.... yet. Mostly age, neglect, abuse and availability of parts. Not to say you can't be successful in finding a good $4000 car of any model that doesn't require a bunch of money thrown at it, but most people are not so fortunate..
 

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I will add one more thing. The GXPs are holding their value better then the NA cars. And according to the VIO report I just got, the GXPs seem to be going away quicker as well. But opinions are much like belly buttons, everybody has one.
 

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This was a gxp, but none of the expenses have been gxp related.... yet. Mostly age, neglect, abuse and availability of parts. Not to say you can't be successful in finding a good $4000 car of any model that doesn't require a bunch of money thrown at it, but most people are not so fortunate..
The GXP has been valued approximately $5k more than the NA since they were new, so a $5k NA is going to be roughly equivalent to a $10k GXP.

In this case I would call the two cars equal in relative value, so the real question is whether the newer car with more performance but more potential for relatively expensive repairs is worth more than twice as much money.

Since the OP has equal desire for the two, and the more expensive car is at the top of his spending limit, and he wants something low-maintenance, I think the NA is the better choice.
 

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The GXP has been valued approximately $5k more than the NA since they were new, so a $5k NA is going to be roughly equivalent to a $10k GXP.

In this case I would call the two cars equal in relative value, so the real question is whether the newer car with more performance but more potential for relatively expensive repairs is worth more than twice as much money.

Since the OP has equal desire for the two, and the more expensive car is at the top of his spending limit, and he wants something low-maintenance, I think the NA is the better choice.
Agreed. In this case NA is probably best choice with this budget in mind.... it is always nice to start out not in debt:smile2: Used cars are such a crapshoot. You can rationalize & study consumers reports till your red in the face and still get a clunker. I am the original owner of an early 2007 gxp and have had no expense other than tires, pads and battery....but I know that is not the norm.

low maintenance.... did someone say Miata:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thank you everyone who has posted! This is exactly what I was hoping for - as many opinions as possible. Overall I feel like I'm stuck right in the middle because of the following (not taking into account performance):

N/A - at 71,000 miles, just the regular things that are going to come up are strut/spring replacement, clutch replacement (feels good now but...), and little things here and there (seals, bushings etc). The car also has no ABS, no traction control, no cruise but it does have power door locks, a/c auto lights and after the scrape is repaired (it's in the shop now) it will really shine nicely. I'll also want to upgrade the stereo (I like my music).

GXP - 40,000 miles - I'll have about another 10,000 miles until I have to worry about anything major as far as repairs go so I'll have time to save up some cash for that. It has all of the GXP options that aren't available on the N/A and the stereo is better out of the gate, "premium" headliner (not sure if that actually makes a difference). The resale value will probably hold up a bit better too, especially considering the mileage and the fact that it's the last year the car was available.

I am actually curious, how is the traction control on these cars? Also, please let me know if what I have posted makes sense or if I'm completely off base.
 

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I have a manual NA with 105k miles that has only had the cam solenoids replaced, so under $100 in repairs. The shocks still feel good to me. No seals, no bushings, and the clutch is still fine. So the need for repairs is not a given. I have ABS but no traction or stability control. ABS is good, but I think it has activated twice in 13 years. Does it have a limited slip differential? I do have the premium headliner, but usually have the top down so it really doesn't matter. Ditto for the radio, as it hasn't even been turned on in a couple of years since it is nearly in-audible at speed with the top down.

You may have time with the GXP, but you may not, and unless you would do the repair yourself you are looking at a couple of thousand to replace a pump. Not a warning, but it could happen and you should be prepared for the possibility.

How will you drive the car? You don't need traction control on dry pavement, or at least I never have. I have only driven either of mine on snow once, and it wasn't fun. On the other hand there are some northern cars that have been driven year round in all weather and they were old enough that they probably didn't have traction control or LSD.

It sounds like you are talking yourself into the GXP, which means it may now be the better choice for you.
 

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Agreed. In this case NA is probably best choice with this budget in mind.... it is always nice to start out not in debt:smile2: Used cars are such a crapshoot. You can rationalize & study consumers reports till your red in the face and still get a clunker. I am the original owner of an early 2007 gxp and have had no expense other than tires, pads and battery....but I know that is not the norm.

low maintenance.... did someone say Miata:wink:
Good points.

I have directed several friends from a Sky/Solstice to a Miata, but more for utility than reliability.
 

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I picked up a 90k mile GXP a little over a year ago for $6500. I've had to replace the water pump (not as bad as everyone makes it sound), high pressure fuel pump and a few other bits, but overall it's been great.

I also have an NA (that's since been turbo'd). Nothing in the world or any parallel dimension, real or imagined, would convince me to get another NA.

You don't need traction control on dry pavement, or at least I never have.
Hell, I need traction control in a straight line, on dry pavement on RE71's.
 

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You don't need traction control on dry pavement, or at least I never have.
Hell, I need traction control in a straight line, on dry pavement, on RE71s.
 

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You don't need traction control on dry pavement, or at least I never have.
Hell, I need traction control in a straight line, on dry pavement on RE71's.
 

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I picked up a 90k mile GXP a little over a year ago for $6500. I've had to replace the water pump (not as bad as everyone makes it sound), high pressure fuel pump and a few other bits, but overall it's been great.
My point in commenting about pump failures was that they represent a pretty serious repair expense if you don't replace them yourself, and that they are more likely to fail in a GXP than an NA.
I also have an NA (that's since been turbo'd). Nothing in the world or any parallel dimension, real or imagined, would convince me to get another NA.
Clearly your desires are different than the OP's. Refer to Post#17.
Hell, I need traction control in a straight line, on dry pavement on RE71's.
Could be a malfunctioning Throttle Pedal Position Sensor, since you should be able to modulate your throttle. Might be worth a look.
 

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Thank you everyone who has posted! This is exactly what I was hoping for - as many opinions as possible. Overall I feel like I'm stuck right in the middle because of the following (not taking into account performance):
Do you have a budget in mind, that might help determine if you should go w/a NA or GXP.

If you're a cruiser go with a 2.4, if you're performance orientated go with GXP. After reading your comments I'm inclined to think you'd be happy with an auto GXP. Follow the old man rule, buy the best car you can at the price you can afford. Also, insurance companies seem to have been totaling our cars out at very quick rate the last several years so you may want to keep that in mind too.
 

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Do you have a budget in mind, that might help determine if you should go w/a NA or GXP.

If you're a cruiser go with a 2.4, if you're performance orientated go with GXP. After reading your comments I'm inclined to think you'd be happy with an auto GXP. Follow the old man rule, buy the best car you can at the price you can afford. Also, insurance companies seem to have been totaling our cars out at very quick rate the last several years so you may want to keep that in mind too.
See his earlier posts.
He had an NA, and you're not kidding about the power difference! It's really not a huge deal for me as the looks/cruising factor is the most important part for me. I'm seriously right down the middle here. For $5k I would get a red N/A with no real extra options & 71K miles. The only immediate thing I would do would be upgrade the stereo and MAYBE down the line an exhaust & tune. Any replacement parts (struts, clutch, air filter) would be upgrades when needed but most likely I would just use this as an intro to the car and something to enjoy the drive.

The turbo for $11,250 I wouldn't really have to do anything at all except maintenance but it would be the absolute roof of my spending ability. It also has the traction control (which would probably come in handy when I decide to drive it in the winter in New England), fancy roof liner and ABS. I'm just wondering if the extra 6k is worth it.
 

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Pretty clean auto GXP with 58k just popped up on FB for $9k.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Traction control does it job like any modern car. I can get mine to flicker in 2nd gear at full boost around 4krpm...or if I spin the turbo and dump the clutch in first. There is also Competition or Competitive mode, which allows you to get wheel spin, but the minute you go past 5? degrees of corrective steering the fun is over. My advice, never turn TC off unless on a track with a GXP. You have to have quick hands and fast feet or the car will come around on you in a heart beat with TC off...
 

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What a great thread

I think there are a lot of good opinions here. For myself, earlier in August 2019 I bought a NA 2007 Solstice. During my search, I quickly found out that there are many options that can come on a base model, so you have to know what you are looking at. I think TC was only available on the GXP, although with some moisture on the road, even the NA could use it.
Mine came with premium sound, acoustic headliner, power door locks, spoiler, chrome wheels, limited slip, XM radio, OnStar, manual trans. I don't think there's anything else except automatic trans that I could have gotten, and I passed up a lot of nice, cheaper cars to get the manual trans.

This 09 GXP has been sold. It looks really nice, and the miles and price tell me that this car was a bargain. I bought my car for cash, but I might have taken out a loan to get this one!

For me, I find a tremendous amount of satisfaction with the looks and the feel of the NA car. I'm more of a cruiser type, enjoying country roads with turns and hills. The car is solidly planted, and with a little throttle manipulation you can get the nose to pull into a decreasing radius turn real nice.

There's something to be said for a car that requires its driver to apply some skill to make it perform. I've owned vintage Beetles and Buses, and Fiat X1/9s. I ride street motorcycles and yet, this car brings a smile to my face every time.

I'm still learning about this car and I'm impressed with the build quality, especially considering the price point. Even though my car had 48K when I bought it, in the first week the Engine Light came on and the codes came up for the cam positioning solenoid. I found a pair (Intake/Exhaust) on Amazon for $35, put them in myself and problem solved. The old ones still worked, but I think they were weak. They came out very clean, no oil deposits whatsoever. Since then, no issues.

I hope you enjoy what you get!
 

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Traction control does it job like any modern car. I can get mine to flicker in 2nd gear at full boost around 4krpm...or if I spin the turbo and dump the clutch in first. There is also Competition or Competitive mode, which allows you to get wheel spin, but the minute you go past 5? degrees of corrective steering the fun is over. My advice, never turn TC off unless on a track with a GXP. You have to have quick hands and fast feet or the car will come around on you in a heart beat with TC off...
In the context of this thread the question is whether lack of TC on the NA is a negative to having it on the GXP, so "full boost" really isn't an issue.
........... although with some moisture on the road, even the NA could use it. .........
Given my NA experience I am going to suggest that this is/was tire related. The RS-As that came on the NA were notorious for their lack of performance in the wet. Good tires make a huge difference, although if you try hard enough you can get anything to break loose.
........ The car is solidly planted, and with a little throttle manipulation you can get the nose to pull into a decreasing radius turn real nice. .........
I absolutely agree. One thing that is very nearly the same between the two options is handling. The GXP is stiffer, which can be a benefit under some conditions and a liability under others.
 
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