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Discussion Starter #1
So, I am going to my first POCI convention. In 2021 , the convention will be in Uncasville, Conn - at the casino.
The rules for the car show state that the hood and hatch need to be open for the whole show. Well, the rear hatch of the coupe has a light back there.

If order to not drain the battery, do I just take out the light bulb ?
 

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Pulling the bulb is certainly an option, alternately (and more easily) you could pull the fuse.

The light should be part of the Inadvertent Load Control (ILC) circuit, and should shut off after 15 minutes.
I may be wrong about the length of the time delay, but I believe that it is descried in the owner's manual.

Correction: It is referred to as "Battery Run-Down Protection" in the owner's manual, and the time delay is 20 minutes.
 

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Ditto JohnWR. It should go out after 10-15 minutes if the vehicle is left undisturbed. You can try it at home before you go. Simply leave the hatch open and check on it 20 minutes later. 20 minutes shouldn't have any significant drain on the battery. Or at the show, disconnect your negative battery terminal, then you'll know there will be no issue regardless of what you do. With the inadvertent circuit, it will come back on anytime anyone opens a door or otherwise wakes up the vehicle, so to combat any repeated usage, the battery cable is probably the best trick.
Let the forum know what you find, I'm sure there's other coupe owners that'd be curious.
 

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The requirement to have hood and hatch open only applies to the actual "show" which is one day of the convention. IIRC it is usually from something like 9:00 to 3:00 or so. The last few times I've gone to POCI I registered in the Road Warriors category and there are very few requirements. I have no desire to have my car picked apart by judges who are only looking for faults.
The convention itself is usually a fun time. Enjoy.
 

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... I have no desire to have my car picked apart by judges who are only looking for faults. ...
The Solstice is too new to be 'points-judged'. I'll just be in the 'popular vote' category...

111349
 

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The issue is not so much with the light being on as it is with the data system staying active. with the hatch open or even a door for that matter it is going to keep the BCM awake and sending can bus data, and that in turn keeps all the other modules awake. It's fantastic that the BCM does turn the light out, this only provides more time before the battery goes dead. It will still go dead. it might take 24 hours instead of 12 to do so.

If you do not want to disconnect the battery then you will need to take off the panel where the latch is and disconnect the clip going to the hatch. Remember this clip is also what is going to open the hatch so do not close it without reattaching the harness first. I would place a foam block over the latch assembly and push it into the actual catch so it cannot get knocked out. This will keep the hatch from latching if it gets closed. This will solve the battery drain without having to disconnect the battery.

You can also isolate the single wire in the clip and cut it extend the wires and add a mechanical switch somewhere hidden. so you can turn it off whenever you want, this is advisable if you plan on doing a few shows. the clips that hold the panel in will eventually break if the panel keeps on getting removed. so do it once and add the switch and call it done. If you do the switch you will not have to worry about the hatch getting closed either.
 

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They sell a battery disconnect switch on Ebay I use them on the cars I store over the winter so there is no draw on the battery ,the Solstice and Chevelle are on tenders . They connect to the negative terminal and disconnect with a turn of the knob . A nice feature with this set up is it actually works as a theft deterrent as the car won't start with the battery disconnected . I purchased the ones that are made in the USA under 10 bucks apiece .
 

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The issue is not so much with the light being on as it is with the data system staying active. with the hatch open or even a door for that matter it is going to keep the BCM awake and sending can bus data, and that in turn keeps all the other modules awake. It's fantastic that the BCM does turn the light out, this only provides more time before the battery goes dead. It will still go dead. it might take 24 hours instead of 12 to do so.

.......
Have you measured this, or are you speculating? I have not done exhaustive testing, but my cars seem to act the same with the doors or trunk open and the ILC circuit active as they do with everything closed. The current draw seems to be about the same in either case, although I have not monitored it long enough to know if the complete power-down sequence happens.
 

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The car should go to "sleep" typically after 10 minutes of it being completely closed up. sometimes it can be as long as 20.
I am 100% sure about this. some of the input pins are interrupt pins and will wake the computer if the pin gets activated. if the pin stays activated the computer will not go to sleep. The BCM controls the sleep of all other modules in the car. there is a special packet that can be sent on the CAN bus that wakes the modules up. this is a hard wired feature in the module, similiar to a WOL (Wake On LAN) or "Magic Packet" on a computer network.. the ECU of the module can be sleeping but the CAN interface for the module is always listening. if this packet comes down the wire the interface then wakes up the modules ECU.

I cannot even begin to tell you how many times I have had to track down parasitic current draws in a car.. The light turning off after the 10-15 minutes if a feature of the BCM. so in order for the BCM to know if the door has been closed after that time it has to be awake and reading the state of the door pin. and when the BCM is awake every other module in the car is as well.

You have to use a really sensitive set of AMP clamps or a volt ohm meter to test this. If you use a volt ohm meter I suggest opening it up and removing the round AG fuse for the current portion of the meter and solder 2 wires down to each side where the fuse connects to. make sure the wires are 16 or 18 gauge and also that they are long enough to get outside the case of the meter. run the wires outside the meter typically to the back of the meter and put the case back together. Crimp on 2 insulated female spade connectors and put an ATO fuse (standard size automotive blade fuse) of the same rating as the fuse you took out of the meter into the female spades. I say to do this because when current testing a vehicle you will forget that you are doing a current test and open the door, the inrush from the computers turning on and the dome light turning on almost 100% of the time will blow the internal fuse in the meter. after a few times of having to replace the fuse it starts to become a big annoyance especially when you run out of AG fuses.

any current draw above 100ma is considered parasitic, depending on how much electronics are in the car is going to give you better idea of what the draw should be when asleep. the more gizmos in the car the higher the sleeping draw will be.
 

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Gentleman - the answer is even easier than that. The light switch for the coupe rear window is incorporated in the latch mechanism in the body of the car. All you have to do is once you open the hatch, is to use a finger to relatch and the light goes out. Well actually there are two things you have to remember. The second is not to slam the hatch down on the closed latch mechanism a few hours later when the show is over.

Some of the guys from hotter areas that for whatever reason didn't find the air conditioning as effective as they wanted it (or maybe they didn't have that option) used to fashion a loop out of heavy wire (e.g. coat hanger), to hold the hatch a few inches off the rear body to get some flow-through ventilation.
 

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......Well actually there are two things you have to remember. The second is not to slam the hatch down on the closed latch mechanism a few hours later when the show is over.
......
That seems like an invitation to damage the latch.
 

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stiff breeze = bent hatch or damaged latch. better get a hood prop rod under that if closing the latch manually like that and a sign that says to not close the hatch, because you know someone is going to close the thing when you aren't looking, usually the same person that just got finished eating something greasy and decides they want to touch every thing on and in your car.
 

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Oh @JohnWR

I just had this happen recently with my Solstice..

It is parked in the driveway and either a UPS, USPS or FedEx driver decided they wanted to see what the inside of my car looked like. the windows are tinted so it's not easy to see inside. Well they helped themselves and opened the drivers door. the driver side of my car has been hit, I have replaced the door but the hinges got tweaked a little and have not replaced them yet. So it takes a little bit more force to get the door to latch closed. So when they closed the door it didn't close all the way. I went out the next day and the battery was dead. and I have a 1200CA battery in the car. Pissed me off that the person even touched the car, angered me even more because of the dead battery, and the rage the started to build inside me because the car was parked the wrong way for me to jump start it, so I couldn't take the car out on a nice day because I had to get the charger out and charge the thing for a day. I was fuming.
 

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That seems like an invitation to damage the latch.
Well if an owner is elderly and/or forgetful, and doesn't close the hatch in the proper way, I suppose they should put a piece of red tape or something on the latch to remind them that it is closed. But they really shouldn't be driving the car in that case because they don't know how to close the hatch in the first place.

Personally. I never slam the rear hatch closed and I would hope that no other coupe owner does either. The correct method is to lower the hatch to the rubber weather strip and gently push down until it latches. If the latch is already closed, it won't damage anything, it just won't move down the way it normally does and after a quick slap to one's forehead for forgetting what they had done, they can unlatch it and close it normally. It moves a fraction of an inch and clicks closed.

From the Coupe factory instructions:


To properly close the rear hatch glass,
press down on the center edge of the
glass at the position of the latch.
Closing the hatch glass forcefully may
cause it not to latch securely.
 

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stiff breeze = bent hatch or damaged latch. better get a hood prop rod under that if closing the latch manually like that and a sign that says to not close the hatch, because you know someone is going to close the thing when you aren't looking, usually the same person that just got finished eating something greasy and decides they want to touch every thing on and in your car.
The struts will not let the wind do that - far too stiff. And if the show has idiots around, a normal sign saying Please Do Not Touch usually does little and the hatch should indeed stay closed.

I have shown cars for many years and you are right - some show-goers are civilized and some aren't - you have to know your audience. I usually leave one of my party with the car when I want to walk around.
 

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The struts "should" hold the hatch open.. That's a gamble and one that ends up causing damage if that gamble is wrong. those air struts can fail or end up with a reduced amount of force unexpectedly. I have had the hood come down on my Solstice from a nasty gust of wind, and those struts are rated at 150LBS each.

Cost of a hood prop rod is a whole lot cheaper then having to fix a damaged latch or even worse cracked fiberglass hatch.


$15.48 is a cheap price to pay. I use one always on any car if I am under the hood. I do not care what car it is. My father had a Cadillac hood (older Cadillac with a large hood) fall and nail him in the head, ended up having seizures for the rest of his life. So I always use a prop rod and never rely on those air struts... ever had a minivan hatch come down on ya?? doesn't tickle I will say that. damned things stay up when you push them up and then after some time passes it just drops without warning.
 

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@wspohn : I was thinking more along the lines of things getting hectic at the end f the show, someone being "helpful" and closing the hatch. There was once this guy named Murphy, ever heard of him?

The first rule we always taught people doing race car prep was to never leave anything in a state that appears to be correct, but isn't. We weren't old then, but it is a very perfect person who is never forgetful, or who never gets distracted and we never considered ourselves to be that perfect, even then. The technical term is "mistake proofing" and basically involves removing as many opportunities for error as possible.

In this case i would say that the risk is greater than the reward, since it is very easy to disconnect the power lead, pull the fuse, or pull the bulb. It is even easier to just let the car do its thing and turn the light off after 20 minutes.
 

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@wspohn : I was thinking more along the lines of things getting hectic at the end f the show, someone being "helpful" and closing the hatch. There was once this guy named Murphy, ever heard of him?

In this case i would say that the risk is greater than the reward, since it is very easy to disconnect the power lead, pull the fuse, or pull the bulb. It is even easier to just let the car do its thing and turn the light off after 20 minutes.
I agree that pulling the lamp out of the pressboard inner liner isn't a big deal. If one were showing their car a lot, it would be easy to cut into that circuit and install a small switch right beside the light inside the trunk are - that might be the most foolproof solution of all.

I also agree that 'helpful' people can be a plague at a show.

 

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The issue is not so much with the light being on as it is with the data system staying active. with the hatch open or even a door for that matter it is going to keep the BCM awake and sending can bus data, and that in turn keeps all the other modules awake. It's fantastic that the BCM does turn the light out, this only provides more time before the battery goes dead. It will still go dead. it might take 24 hours instead of 12 to do so.

If you do not want to disconnect the battery then you will need to take off the panel where the latch is and disconnect the clip going to the hatch. Remember this clip is also what is going to open the hatch so do not close it without reattaching the harness first. I would place a foam block over the latch assembly and push it into the actual catch so it cannot get knocked out. This will keep the hatch from latching if it gets closed. This will solve the battery drain without having to disconnect the battery.

You can also isolate the single wire in the clip and cut it extend the wires and add a mechanical switch somewhere hidden. so you can turn it off whenever you want, this is advisable if you plan on doing a few shows. the clips that hold the panel in will eventually break if the panel keeps on getting removed. so do it once and add the switch and call it done. If you do the switch you will not have to worry about the hatch getting closed either.
oh wow, so if the hatch is open it keeps the bcm awake? Any thoughts on how long max you’d do this Before getting worried?

I often put my foldable kayak in my trunk wih the lid strapped down (but not closed since it doesn’t fit), so I’ve probably done this a few times during trips
 
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