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'07 Base - Lil' Red Devil and ‘07 GXP - unnamed
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have a spare ZZP 47KV coil laying around. Recently bought a ‘07 GXP with stage 3 tune. All is good except I had a coil fail. ZZP has zero stock and does not expect a replacement to be available any time in the near future. Car is tuned for the high voltage coils so I need a replacement.
Any ideas?
 

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ask @HHGadget I think he has 3 he may be willing to part with them. I know he didn't use them for very long before one coil went bad and they sent him a replacement and a few days later another one went bad. He didn't want to find out if another would so he shelved them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ask @HHGadget I think he has 3 he may be willing to part with them. I know he didn't use them for very long before one coil went bad and they sent him a replacement and a few days later another one went bad. He didn't want to find out if another would so he shelved them.
Pretty much what I have heard. They are offering a full refund instead of a replacement. I most likely will have the tune adjusted back to OEM.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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Pretty much what I have heard. They are offering a full refund instead of a replacement. I most likely will have the tune adjusted back to OEM.
I wish I have shelved them.
My apologies G-ram. I was so pissed at the whole experience and how much time I wasted chasing problems because of them I threw them all in the garbage.
I’ll recheck my thread with Trifecta but I “thought” I remembered them saying they would not affect the tune…
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ask @HHGadget I think he has 3 he may be willing to part with them. I know he didn't use them for very long before one coil went bad and they sent him a replacement and a few days later another one went bad. He didn't want to find out if another would so he shelved them.
So let me go over the symptoms as I'm thinking it might be something other than the coils...first of all, one of the ZZP coils did fail. P0303 code...replaced coil with OEM one and code did not come back and engine idles and revs normally.

New symptom...if I really get on the accelerator I get a sputter and then hear the waste gate blow....P0300 code blinks and then becomes solid. Constant issue when pushing the pedal hard. If I do slow acceleration then no issues and the car seems to run great....I have seen as high as 11 for boost (not pushing it right now).

Since I am shipping the ZZP coils back for full refund, I have replaced all 4 with NGK coils...still wondering if the sputter on hard accel is from the coil change from 47kv to regular ones (w/stage 3 tune) or if I have a hpfp or fuel rail failure under heavy load....any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I wish I have shelved them.
My apologies G-ram. I was so pissed at the whole experience and how much time I wasted chasing problems because of them I threw them all in the garbage.
I’ll recheck my thread with Trifecta but I “thought” I remembered them saying they would not affect the tune…
No worries. I would have also. I replaced them with NGKs and apparently it runs fine. Just hard acceleration problem mentioned in another post in this thread.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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I went through at least 6 months of this and it reminded me how finicky this motor can be.

i would eliminate all the easy and obvious things like checking the spark plugs and the gap. (You may have already done all this so apologies if it’s all old news)
Mostly start with anything you may have changed or even bumped against recently in the engine bay.

Check your turbo air charge system for leaks.

Load test your battery and make sure all fuses are good and seated.

Check your electrical connections, including the ECM connectors.

Check and clean the MAF and MAP sensors. If you pull them, check the o-rings on them and replace / lube as neccesary.

check the engine grounds.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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I went through at least 6 months of this and it reminded me how finicky this motor can be.

i would eliminate all the easy and obvious things like checking the spark plugs and the gap. (You may have already done all this so apologies if it’s all old news)
Mostly start with anything you may have changed or even bumped against recently in the engine bay.

Check your turbo air charge system for leaks.

Load test your battery and make sure all fuses are good and seated.

Check your electrical connections, including the ECM connectors.

Check and clean the MAF and MAP sensors. If you pull them, check the o-rings on them and replace / lube as neccesary.

check the engine grounds.
I recently put my OEM turbo back and reflashed the ECM with my first Trifecta tune. The car ran hard and I realized I had ordered that tune before I upgraded to the Bosch sensors and swapped them back out for the stock ones.
Car has been great (except the burnt clutch) since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
UPDATE:

1) Put new NGK plugs in gapped to 0.028.
2) Replaced the ZZP coils with a brand new set of NGKs.
3) Full tank of 93 octane (still thinking might be bad gas was in the tank as it sat for a few months before I bought it)
4) triple checked everything that I could for tightness and reconnected all connectors.
5) new battery. PO had put in a Good Battery, yes that is the company name, but I didn’t trust it appeared to be a refurb.

problem still exists. Car runs great as long as I baby it as soon but as soon as I romp on it it sputters and the CEL blinks. If I push it the CEL goes solid (P0300) and stays on. The sputter happens from a stop or at speed. Push the pedal more than 1/2 way and it occurs.

PO had put in RPMs stage 3 with larger turbo, oversized pipes, catless down pipe and larger intercooler. I spoke with Martin at RPM (very nice guy) and he said all of the data from the tune and test drives looked good and the car should be okay unless something has changed in transit.

since it runs good and the problems only show up under load should I be looking at fuel supply problems. I took it for a long drive today with the top down and my wife said I smelled like gasoline when I got home. Didn’t touch any all day long. Looked for any leaks and none to be seen. I’m thinking this may be from the waste gate opening after the sputter? Not sure. Someone mentioned the hpfp may be bad or a fuel pump getting weak and not able to pump enough for the load.

I get no other codes other than P0300.

looking for advice because I really want to enjoy this GXP as when it runs right.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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Check the oil for a gas smell. (I.e. leaking HPFP)

According to the RPM website the “RPM Stage 3” is essentially a big wheel K04.
You had mentioned earlier in this thread you wanted to flash back to OEM. In order to do that you would need a stock K04 Turbo, the OEM Maf/Map sensors and a catalytic converter, then someone to send you an “OEM” tune. I would assume if Martin was the original tuner he may have copied the original tune for your VIN and kept it somewhere?

as you may have read I had two bad Big Wheel turbo experience in a row (PAW not RPM so there is that) but sputtering at higher rpm was an issue before they died.

trifecta (my tuner) was able to dial it back a bit and that combined with the coils and plugs helped eliminate the sputter.

you may want to engage Martin (or another one of our vendors) in a discussion about logging the vehicle while driving and sending them the results to see if they can see what is going on.

Maybe pull the intake hose off the turbo (watch out for the fragile nipple!) and check the front of the turbo with a camera and possibly your fingers just to make sure it’s all good down there. Also check for oil.

my scanner kept telling me to check the fuel rail/injector harness when I was sputtering but I have no idea how one is supposed to “check” that (past visually inspecting it) as I am a novice wrencher at best.

Whatever you do, I highly suggest you keep a log of what you do and on what day so you can keep track of what you have checked /replaced etc.

if I told you all the things I threw at my motor in an attempt to concur the sputtering I’d be admiring to being a fool. I got frustrated and just wanted it to run so I could enjoy driving it and started throwing parts at the problem.

min al my trouble shooting, I did discover the sensor that pushes into the top of the gas tank had a torn rubber nipple on it. Replacing it didn’t fix the problem but glad I found it. It’s an odd one as it is help in by friction and no bolts. One of the only things on the tank you can access from the screw on cover to the Mayan Temple.
As far as I can recollect, it all started when I replaced the rubber hoses with the DDM Silicone. (Not that should have anything ti do with it but that’s when it started.
I have always “stink eyed” the (now silicone) charge tube to Throttle body silicone hose, not that that was it as I swapped back to the OEM rubber and the problem stayed, but still it all started there for me.

I blew out my lines gas lines from the back access to the front after disconnecting them to make sure the was no blockage to the HPFP.
reconnected to the tank and opened up front to check the fuel delivery pump. It was fine.
replaced the aforementioned torn gas tank sensor.
Replaced the Charcoal Cannister Evap Solenoid (very friggin tight back there)
Checked the exhaust connections from turbo back to exhaust tips for leaks.
I then replaced the HPFP and fuel roller.
Then the plugs.
Then the coils (landed on NGKs after much tomfoolery with the ZZPs)
Then the evap solenoid in the air intake manifold.
Then the vacuum solenoid for the turbo.
Pulled the intake manifold, found a stuck washer in the intake tunnel in the head to Cylinder 3 (long story)
Cleaned the manifold and throttle body while I had it off the car.
Replaced the MAP.
Replaced the MAFs.
Tightened, retightened and then even doubled the t-bolt clamps on the air charge system. Removed and thoroughly cleaned / inspected the almost brand new PAW IC.

That’s off the top of my head. If I had kept a log I could pinpoint more precisely but for me, once I cleared the blockage in the intake and sussed out the bad coil and data logged and retuned with Trifecta it was finally gone.
And then I blew the turbo (again).

sorry that isn’t much help but again, I would keep a log or a diary of what you changed and when and what results you got so that you can keep track of it all.

wishing you good luck sir!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dropped the MAF sensor bolt and took me an hour to find it and get it out of the engine bay....thank God for magnetic tipped screwdrivers.

@HHGadget it seems I'm having the same exact symptoms you had....anything over 4k rpms and I get the sputter and then if I push it a P0300 code and it goes into limp mode...restart the car and everything runs fine until I reach the 4k mark again. Totally non-descript on the code except it could be a myriad of issues causing this. Since I spent so much time on the MAF sensor bolt I didn't have time to get to the turbo inspection before work. I'll get to that tomorrow as I have the next 2 days off.

Believe it or not, the PO shipped all original parts to me with the car. I have the turbo, all pipes, sensors, coils, and intercooler. He even sent the original backbone with the car as he upgraded to the full DDM kit and the springs as he did H&R springs and lowered it ~1 inch. If need be, I have the parts to go back to original, will just have to get it re-tuned if I choose that route. The oversize turbo and everything involved came from RPM so hopefully they will work with me and the PO to get this solved. I already know that the tune does not transfer to new owner, but it has less than 150 miles on the tune and the turbo.

And yes, logging everything...thanks for the tip!

Still plugging away!
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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I think much will be revealed by logging. I hadn't even gotten my tune straightened out by 150 miles. It took a while.
I wish there was one single thing i could point to but i had a confluence of things fail on top of each other so there was not one single thing.
If i had to guess, the failing Big Wheel Turbo was probably the culprit and while i replaced other things trying to fix the issue, I should have just checked the turbo earlier and saved myself a lot of time. When i finally did (in my case) it was really obvious it was fried. The second turbo i caught much earlier because i had gone through similar (but not exact) issues with the first one.

I could tell you to mess with the waste gate rod length but I won't. In fact, I strongly recommend not messing with that without the help of your tuner as it could be very easy to go too far and just create further issues. It "might" be that, it might not but working with someone that can view what is happening and guide you while you are doing it would be my recommendation.

I know when i switched back to my OEM K04 and had Trifecta re-tune it for that with the Bosch sensors and Solo Hi-flow CAT and exhaust, no more sputter.
But i did miss the WOW factor of the Big Wheel. After all the messing around I have done I will echo the sentiment some others have put out here.
-If reliability is your #1 goal, I think the stock Turbo with an appropriate tune for the rest of your bolt ons would be a wise choice. (just my opinion).
I dont think the rest of your bolt-ons really stress the motor at all and are worth keeping.

On the other hand just about every hose, sensor, clamp and tube is now brand new on the car... So i guess that is the upside for me?
I certainly know more about the motor than i ever planned to :)
And now that I haver had a taste of the BW turbo, the OEM just wont satisfy. I am, however expecting the trade off of more work on the car than if i left it stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think much will be revealed by logging. I hadn't even gotten my tune straightened out by 150 miles. It took a while.
I wish there was one single thing i could point to but i had a confluence of things fail on top of each other so there was not one single thing.
If i had to guess, the failing Big Wheel Turbo was probably the culprit and while i replaced other things trying to fix the issue, I should have just checked the turbo earlier and saved myself a lot of time. When i finally did (in my case) it was really obvious it was fried. The second turbo i caught much earlier because i had gone through similar (but not exact) issues with the first one.

I could tell you to mess with the waste gate rod length but I won't. In fact, I strongly recommend not messing with that without the help of your tuner as it could be very easy to go too far and just create further issues. It "might" be that, it might not but working with someone that can view what is happening and guide you while you are doing it would be my recommendation.

I know when i switched back to my OEM K04 and had Trifecta re-tune it for that with the Bosch sensors and Solo Hi-flow CAT and exhaust, no more sputter.
But i did miss the WOW factor of the Big Wheel. After all the messing around I have done I will echo the sentiment some others have put out here.
-If reliability is your #1 goal, I think the stock Turbo with an appropriate tune for the rest of your bolt ons would be a wise choice. (just my opinion).
I dont think the rest of your bolt-ons really stress the motor at all and are worth keeping.

On the other hand just about every hose, sensor, clamp and tube is now brand new on the car... So i guess that is the upside for me?
I certainly know more about the motor than i ever planned to :)
And now that I haver had a taste of the BW turbo, the OEM just wont satisfy. I am, however expecting the trade off of more work on the car than if i left it stock.
I have yet to feel full power on the BE turbo. I can feel a huge difference in power from the NA if I keep it under 4k rpm but never felt full load on the turbo yet. We’ll see what tomorrow brings.
 

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That sounds like you were handed an incomplete build G-Ram... at least from what you have shared.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, according to the PO (who I am still in touch with) it was complete and the car run like a beast...then it sat for a few months until sold. Martin at RPM told me everything was good with the tune with the PO and data is all good as far as RPM is concerned. Tunes don't transfer so I have to get a relationship with RPM and see where that goes. I've called a few times and they always answer the phone and have been very professional and kind. I returned the ZZP coils on the PO's behalf and he promised me the refund in full...can't blame the PO as he is in it all the way with me.

Told me again today that if he had known I would have these problems he would not have sold the car. I believe him. Good guy!
 

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Well, according to the PO (who I am still in touch with) it was complete and the car run like a beast...then it sat for a few months until sold. Martin at RPM told me everything was good with the tune with the PO and data is all good as far as RPM is concerned. Tunes don't transfer so I have to get a relationship with RPM and see where that goes. I've called a few times and they always answer the phone and have been very professional and kind. I returned the ZZP coils on the PO's behalf and he promised me the refund in full...can't blame the PO as he is in it all the way with me.

Told me again today that if he had known I would have these problems he would not have sold the car. I believe him. Good guy!
Not trying to knock anyone down so please don’t take it that way and I glad you have the all important good relationship with the PO.

# 1 pull the turbo heat shield and make sure both nuts are on the waste gate actuator rod. Very easy visual inspection. There are either one on each side of the arm the rod passes through or there isn’t. Both should be snug and no slack or Looseness. Before touching them I would mark their position with a pen just in case you need to reset one. It is possible that the rear nut (closest to the windshield) is loose and allowing play. This actually happened to me when I first put my OEM turbo back on. Fortunately I caught it before it fell off. I don’t remember the symptoms since I have had so many but it may have been what you are describing.

I would definitely check the obvious physical things (as you have) including KGs recommendation on checking the actual wheel via the front intake. Also look for oil of course on the charge tube side of the turbo between the metal elbow and the charge system.

it all comes down to (if the POs statement “it ran great before” is true) what changed since he/they last drove it.
Sounds like you did most of the obvious like checking the gas and all the standard air charge system connections and hoses. Check the oil check the coolant, the VVT Solenoids look good and clean (?)
Always possible the MAF / MAPs got dirty and or the rubber o rings on them dried out.. I suppose. Wouldn’t hurt to hit them with CRC MAF cleaner.

If nothing was actually changed and it was running great and just sat for two months the only thing that makes sense is that something came loose, some seal dried out or something broke.

the more I think about it the more it makes sense to check that turbo and get some datalogs with someone who can read them if everything above checks out. Feel free to PM me your number if you want to jump on the phone…
 

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Well, at least you can feel your misfire. I’m still battling all 4 cylinder misfires but I can’t feel it or hear any misfires and they happen at the same time. I’m thinking it maybe the ecm is acting up and sending false information. Good luck with your diagnosis.
 

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Well, at least you can feel your misfire. I’m still battling all 4 cylinder misfires but I can’t feel it or hear any misfires and they happen at the same time. I’m thinking it maybe the ecm is acting up and sending false information. Good luck with your diagnosis.
The service manaual says this about the misfire codes:
A misfire DTC could be caused by an excessive vibration from sources other than the engine. Inspect for the following possible sources:
  • A tire or wheel that is out of round or out of balance
  • Variable thickness brake rotors
  • An unbalanced driveshaft
  • Certain rough road conditions
  • A damaged accessory drive component or belt
  • A damaged reluctor wheel
 

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The service manaual says this about the misfire codes:
Thank you. What is a reluctor wheel? Is this what the crank sensor reads off of? That would be the only thing that I could think of. The others would be quite noticeable. The brakes are in spec and the drive belt system is all stock and never been touched
 
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