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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought my first Solstice. 2008 with only 9158 miles on her. But I have two issues to address right from the start. The passenger side exterior door handle is broken and the rear glass has come unglued from the convertible top. Question #1. What is the best brand for replacing the door handle?

Question #2. Is a GM dealer the best option to have the glass re-glued or can I do it myself?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Hi Scott, welcome to the forum!

Both of your issues have been discussed here, and not long ago, but I don't have links to those threads. I'm sure other folks will show up and point you in the right direction.

In the meanwhile, you might try running a search using the Google Custom Search at the top right of your screen. To begin with the search results might seem a bit confusing, but if you look towards the bottom section of the results page you might find threads that could help.

Welcome again, and congrats on your purchase! You bought a great car!
 

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the exterior door handles match up with OEM GM Cobolt handles, which are available in chrome or un-painted ( which allows you to paint them to match to car body ).

People have been using 3M glue to re-glue the rear window...

You will have this forum to be wonderful because you can do a google search to get the past experience of others to quickly fix any issues that you discover with your car.
 

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Welcome, there's a few YT videos for Solstice or Sky door handle replacement. There's also some generic YT vids for regluing the back window. From what I've read the biggest issue is trying to figure out how to keep pressure applied while the glue is drying, and not getting glue on anything else. Good luck. BTW, if the car still has the OEM tires you may want to replace them for safety reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ChopTop, what's up with the OEM tires? I drive to and from work. Is it an immediate risk?
 

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The original tires are just ten years old at this point and probably dry rotted to the point of being unsafe.
 

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You can get Cobalt door handles from Amazon. Read the threads on the forum and you will find that the handles come in different configurations.

The failure mode is due to the two rear mounting thread inserts breaking loose from the handle over time. The handle body is cast and the threads are pressed into cast holes. The castings fail. As a result, the handles were redesigned to include additional structure to avoid the failure.

You can use any style handle if you fill the void with epoxy. JB Weld quick works very well. Use a popsicle stick to mix and then drizzle it into the void and the handles will not fail in the future. If your passenger door handle has failed, the drivers door needs to be addressed as well. You can pull it and apply JB Weld to avoid future failure.

The handles come in chrome, "primed" which it turns out means satin black or gray primer. The satin black are fine for long term service in my experience, but the gray handles should be painted. At least cleared if you like the gray color.

The handles are "handed". That is they only fit left or right side as the action is unique to each side. They also come with or without lock holes. Check your current handles, then order a replacement that matches, or if you are going to paint them, get a pair of primed units and have them painted, then apply JB Weld and install them. ALWAYS apply JB Weld - even if the handle is reinforced they can still fail so fill them.

When you remove the existing handles, you will need a 10mm socket and extension. Put some electrical tape across the face of the socket so the bolt is held in position while working it out of the door. If you don't do this, invariably one or more of the bolts falls out of the socket and you are fishing with a magnet to get it out of the guts of the door. I have never seen one totally lost but its a pain to go fishing for them.

The rear window is a well known issue. I have repaired three. The first challenge is make sure you have the RIGHT adhesive. Its the black, sticky window installation glue that is very challenging to work with. It does not want to flow. It wants to get onto EVERYTHING and comes off NOTHING. Great care needs to be applied to make it work. But if you take your time, have some help and are careful the repair is very effective.

Check out the threads and purchase the right glue

Purchase the window clamps. They are ESSENTIAL to success. They have suction cups on Amazon
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MQX4T6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work very well. But they need help. I picked up a section of 1 x 1/8th aluminum bar and cut it into sections to go under the clamps across the perimeter of the window to spread the load on the canvas and get it into continuous contact with the glass.

I highly recommend that you do a dry run or two to rehearse and perfect your technique. Put the clamps on the window without tightening them. Practice how you will move the glue gun to apply a bead of adhesive around the perimeter of the window, then how you will line up the window and tighten up the clamps. It will be like a monkey making love to a football the first time you do it, thus the dry runs to perfect your technique.

The key is to get the window aligned correctly the first try once you apply the bead of glue, then have a friend tighten up the clamps while you hold the window in position.

Its tricky but it can be done. And once the glue dries, you will be happy with the results.

The TSB with more info is here
https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f11/my-rear-window-adventure-103577/#post1532113
 

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Scott,
Where do you live? If you happen to be near Denver, Colorado, you should come to Rob's garage day next month and we can help you with some of this. If you are anywhere near Corning, New York, the annual Solstice and Sky rally is happening there next week and you could likely find help there.
 

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Lower the top carefully after the repair. I have noticed the glass rests on the top of the Tank cover. I have friend that is a little rough with his when he takes it down. Drops and shoves, if you know what i mean. He is starting to get alignment issues and such. A soon-to-be weekend project for me.
 

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Welcome Scott & as you see there are folks that are willing to share their knowledge with you. Any pics? Rob the Elder never ceases to amaze me. Thanks for sharing Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
CycleCat, thanks for the advice and the info on the rally, unfortunately, I'm in Virginia, but I have a mechanic that I trust can fix whatever I screw up.
 

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Where in VA are you? I will be driving through VA on my way to NASSAM (national Solstice / Sky meeting) this Sunday and part of Monday.
 

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ChopTop, what's up with the OEM tires? I drive to and from work. Is it an immediate risk?
Tire age vs mileage has been discussed in a past thread. Basically tires can dry rot from the inside out so you can't always be sure how safe your tires are based on the miles. Having said that, I'm still running my OEM tires on my 09. I have been thinking about replacing them, but I'm not running to the tire store as quickly as I should.
 

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Tires need to be replaced when they have reached their expiration date. They can look great but have aged enough to have lost much of their structural integrity. I replace mine at 5 years.




 

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....I'm still running my OEM tires on my 09. I have been thinking about replacing them, but I'm not running to the tire store as quickly as I should.
:surprise::surprise::surprise:

:nono::nono::nono:
 
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