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I had an old S10 that sat for about 3 years. When we decided to bring it back from the dead It wouldn't start. We thought it could be fuel pump so it was taken out of the tank (tank needs dropped, huge pain) and ran the pump in reverse with kerosene, it spat out all sorts of gunk. However the car still wouldn't start. My code reader wasn't able to communicate with the car via OBDII.
Turned out the fuse to the immobiliser module had a bad contact. In the case of the S10 if you don't have a working immobiliser module, apart from not being able tostart the car, you are also not able to read any codes at all, the OBDII depends on the immobiliser. Food for thought, check if your immobiliser module fuse is OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
It currently won’t fire even if I try to jump it off. It just attempts to turn over. Is there a reason I don’t have power to certain fuses? 42,45, 52 under hood fuse and relay under the passenger side.
42 is ecm transmission
45 is injectors, ignition module
52 is the windshield wiper relay

relay 30 on the passenger side is the HVAC
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP
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sounds like either the fusible link at the starter or the connection at the starter. I wouldn't put it past some ding dong at Walmart to accidentally connect the battery backwards and doing that would have cooked the fusible link. It's easy to check. using a volt ohm meter touch one of the leads to the housing on the alternator and the other lead to the post on the backside of the alternator. The post on the back is not the easiest thing to get to but you can get the test lead in there. It should read the same voltage as the battery if it doesn't then you know where your problem is.

As has already been stated 12.6 volts is what the battery should read. If it is dropping from 12.0 volts down to 11.5 with the key on and not cranking then you have a bad battery. The voltage should not drop that much with just the key being turned on. Imagine how low it drops when it gets hit with 300amps being pulled from it when cranking. The voltage is going to drop by another 2 volts and that would put it below the 10 volts needed to keep the computers up and running on the car. Just turning the key on with everything turned off (except the headlights because of the DRLs) there shouldn't be more then 50 amps being pulled from the battery.

I personally think that you may have gotten a bad battery. You can easily check by putting a straight edge across the sides of the battery. See if it's swollen at all. If it is it's no good. You can also take the battery out and bring it to a parts store (not walmart) and have it load tested. doing a load test is putting a heavy load on the battery for 10 seconds and then checking the voltage afterwards. If the voltage has dropped to much then the battery is no good. The voltage drop you are seeing with little load on the battery is not right. During crank on a 70°F day you should see a half a volt drop.
 

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It currently won’t fire even if I try to jump it off. It just attempts to turn over. Is there a reason I don’t have power to certain fuses? 42,45, 52 under hood fuse and relay under the passenger side.
42 is ecm transmission
45 is injectors, ignition module
52 is the windshield wiper relay

relay 30 on the passenger side is the HVAC
Jumping the starter won't help if your immobiliser or its fuse are toast. The symptom is, starts and then dies right away; or doesn't even start, at cranking it kinda wants to start, will sputter a bit but not catch on.
 
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