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Discussion Starter #1
My 2008 takes a quart or so of coolant every few hundred miles. Big puddle under the car. Is there a most common leak point?
Is the door unlock button disabled when the ignition is on? Mine is.
One of the little flaps that has to lift to allow the top to seal is broken. Spindle snapped off. What is that part called? Link to replacing one?
The 'disable traction control' button illuminates when lit but will not go off when pressed again. Have to cycle power to the car.

I've wanted a Solstice since I saw them, and finally got the girls out of school. Brazen Orange and named her SUMMER. Got the custom plate to match.

Thanks and apologies if I violated some rule of the board, it seems very supportive and I don't wanna blow it.
 

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"My 2008 takes a quart or so of coolant every few hundred miles. Big puddle under the car. Is there a most common leak point?"

Most commonly the water pump, but could be other things. If it was a hose or something similar, I'd think you'd be losing a lot more.

"Is the door unlock button disabled when the ignition is on? Mine is."

Does it work at all? I've had a door lock actuator fail. Do the door automatically unlock when you turn the ignition off? You can set this feature to be on or off or just the drivers door (see owners manual).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
"Is the door unlock button disabled when the ignition is on? Mine is."
Does it work at all? I've had a door lock actuator fail. Do the door automatically unlock when you turn the ignition off? You can set this feature to be on or off or just the drivers door (see owners manual).
Yes they do both unlock when I turn off the ignition. Thanks I will look at that switch and find it in the manual. Thanks for not saying Read The F(riendly) Manual.
 

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If you're seeing a puddle under the driver's side, it is most likely the water pump and you'll want to keep an eye on it and/or get it fixed as soon as possible. Some members that have had them fail noticed the leak and then had a catastrophic failure on the road, leaving them stranded.
 

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If you're seeing a puddle under the driver's side, it is most likely the water pump and you'll want to keep an eye on it and/or get it fixed as soon as possible. Some members that have had them fail noticed the leak and then had a catastrophic failure on the road, leaving them stranded.
Drivers side?
 

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Waterpump, as stated above is a very common failure point. Not cheap either...about $1500 at the dealer. Most go around the 48k to 75k mark.

Traction button -
1 press turns off traction to an extent, but will still kick in TC and RSC and keep you in line most of the time.
2 quick presses puts it in competitive mode and will allow you to hang the rear end out in turns without getting too squirrely.
Press and hold traction button for 10 seconds turns all nannies off.....not recommended unless on a closed track. Short wheel base cars get away from people quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Waterpump, as stated above is a very common failure point. Not cheap either...about $1500 at the dealer. Most go around the 48k to 75k mark.

Traction button -
1 press turns off traction to an extent, but will still kick in TC and RSC and keep you in line most of the time.
2 quick presses puts it in competitive mode and will allow you to hang the rear end out in turns without getting too squirrely.
Press and hold traction button for 10 seconds turns all nannies off.....not recommended unless on a closed track. Short wheel base cars get away from people quickly.
Outstanding, thank you! And she has ~76K miles on her. Fits with the water pump.
 

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Welcome. Do you have the 2.4 or the turbocharged 2.0 car? Can make a difference

Generally the first thing to check with a coolant leak is the water pump. They have known failure modes and many have had them replaced. They tend to leak randomly, then stop leaking randomly then fail totally dumping all the coolant out. The replacement cost is almost all labor as the pump can be had for around $50 anywhere. It can take several hours to change on the turbo cars. And GM will charge around a thousand to do the job.

But with the age of the cars it's also possible you may have a coolant hose that is failing and the leak is not the pump. Have it diagnosed soon so you are not standing on the side of the road. Let us know please

The flap is a different challenge. The silver panel behind the seats is the tulip panel. The flaps are part of the tulip panel and are operated by a cable for each flap that moves them up and down with the top. There is a plastic retainer clip on the upper end of the cable that holds it in a hinge on the inside edge of each flap. Typically, the plastic clip breaks and the flap stops moving. Next time the top goes up, it hits the non retracted flap. Sadly many drivers just push harder and damage the flap. The corners break, they chip on the back edge or the hinge fails. You can buy a new flap. They come with the hinge hardware installed and will mount easily. But the separate hinge parts went pou of stock years ago. The last flap I bought was $100 in the box plus shipping. Else you can look for a recycled part on eBay or contact HoosierGXP who has recycle parts. There are threads that describe the process. You could ask Chickenwite. He has one of my flaps. For about a year now.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Welcome. Do you have the 2.4 or the turbocharged 2.0 car? Can make a difference


The flap is a different challenge. The silver panel behind the seats is the tulip panel. The flaps are part of the tulip panel and are operated by a cable for each flap that moves them up and down with the top. There is a plastic retainer clip on the upper end of the cable that holds it in a hinge on the inside edge of each flap. Typically, the plastic clip breaks and the flap stops moving. Next time the top goes up, it hits the non retracted flap. Sadly many drivers just push harder and damage the flap. The corners break, they chip on the back edge or the hinge fails. You can buy a new flap. They come with the hinge hardware installed and will mount easily. But the separate hinge parts went pou of stock years ago. The last flap I bought was $100 in the box plus shipping. Else you can look for a recycled part on eBay or contact HoosierGXP who has recycle parts. There are threads that describe the process. You could ask Chickenwite. He has one of my flaps. For about a year now.
I have the 2.0 Turbo, and my flap damage is exactly as described. I suspect myself....humm...the top is hard to set in place. WHANG. (hinge failure). There it fits now. Next time I took .5 seconds to look for the issue and found the flap down at once. I bought if from a dealer, so they may have broken it before me, but I certainly put enough pressure on it to seat the top without touching it. Lesson learned.

Taking it in for a water pump check this week. I got stranded enough by my 1600 Datsun Fairlady (now moldering under a tarp) in back in the 90s to not relish the experience again. I'll start looking for the complete assembly after I find the threads that I can read up on.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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If you can't replace the water pump yourself I suggest finding a quality mechanic to do it rather than the dealer. The dealers are crazy expensive and a good mechanic is someone to keep in your contacts. I have one I love even though I do most of my own work. I took my suv to him once as I didn't want to do it and he told me that it should be covered under the 5 year power train warranty. I had though it was out of the warranty (forgot about the 5 year). A lot of places just would have done the work and charged me.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well my trusted mechanic shop called in and they can't find an external leak. Pressure tested overnight, driven, etc. No longer sure the puddle under it was not A/C, but, there's no doubting the fact I have had a low coolant light twice in 3 months and had to top it off. Head gasket?
 

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Well my trusted mechanic shop called in and they can't find an external leak. Pressure tested overnight, driven, etc. No longer sure the puddle under it was not A/C, but, there's no doubting the fact I have had a low coolant light twice in 3 months and had to top it off. Head gasket?
A head gasket leak will normally show up in a pressure test.
 
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several places to check for coolant leaks. Any coolant on the oil dipstick or oil in the coolant reservoir? White smoke from exhaust at startup? Those could be caused by a blown head gasket, Any smell of anti freeze in the car when running the heater? could be a bad heater core. Other than those, it could be a bad hose. They usually leak where the rubber hoses connect to metal fittings, leaving a whitish residue at the leak.
 

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Well my trusted mechanic shop called in and they can't find an external leak. Pressure tested overnight, driven, etc. No longer sure the puddle under it was not A/C, but, there's no doubting the fact I have had a low coolant light twice in 3 months and had to top it off. Head gasket?
A head gasket will cause a leak into the motor. I don’t ever recall seeing a head gasket go bad with an external leak. I’d buy a dye kit and put it in the coolant system. Easily detectable at night with uv light.
 

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Additional note. Many times the water pump will only leak when hot. My 2.4 was that way. Never anything puddled underneath but residue on the engine in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
UPDATE
Water pump. I passed on Chickenwire's comment above and asked them go dog it out for a while (I could hear them technicians rubbing their hands over that) and then put it up on a lift. Yep, hot water pump is a leaky water pump. Parts and Labor for the repair at just under 700 estimated. Thanks so much for all the hard - won insights.
 

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Hopefully they fix it correctly because that price is a bit light for a dealership. Paets alone at the dealer are nearly $300, which means they're charging about 2.5 hours labor and it should be about 6 IMSMC. If they don't know what they're doing, they can screw up the timing chain tensioner and you'll be left with a nasty whine that has to then be fixed.
 

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A head gasket leak will normally show up in a pressure test.
I have had a head gasket go and it didn't show up on either a pressure test nor a dye test on my MGC (basically an MGB with a 3.0 straight 6 in it). Drove me crazy as there was no other reason I could think of, so I changed the head gasket and all was well!

A head gasket will cause a leak into the motor. I don’t ever recall seeing a head gasket go bad with an external leak. I’d buy a dye kit and put it in the coolant system. Easily detectable at night with uv light.
I have occasionally seen this, too, but not often. Most common is certainly into the combustion space as the pressure is there to cause it. Only time I have seen an external blow was when someone hadn't decked the head lightly to ensure a flat surface and it was blowing bubbles of oil between the block and head on the outside surface.

Head gasket issues can be wily devils! I haven't seen a lot of head gasket issues on the LNF, that I can recall, at least not compared to the all too common water pump problems.
 
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