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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off it's my wife's car and I haven't been a fan since she's had it. We've always had A/C or heat related issues. First was heat controls was either too hot or too cold. Replaced the door actuator that controls temp settings. This fixed the issue. Now there's absolutely no heat at all, but everything works fine, a/c, blower motor, climate controls to change settings to defrost, floor, face, etc. I took blower motor resistor out and found it was burnt along with harness. Got the replacement parts off of AM Auto, installed and still no heat. I've done the recalibration a few times. I've also taken reservoir apart and held it up in the air to try and bleed. I'm thinking maybe a bad thermostat, but I think I changed this about 3 years ago, but cannot remember. I'm thinking off flushing coolant by opening radiator and letting water run through system, then close and add coolant while holding reservoir in the air. Any thoughts, burnt resistor and harness attached??
 

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First off it's my wife's car and I haven't been a fan since she's had it. We've always had A/C or heat related issues. First was heat controls was either too hot or too cold. Replaced the door actuator that controls temp settings. This fixed the issue. Now there's absolutely no heat at all, but everything works fine, a/c, blower motor, climate controls to change settings to defrost, floor, face, etc. I took blower motor resistor out and found it was burnt along with harness. Got the replacement parts off of AM Auto, installed and still no heat. I've done the recalibration a few times. I've also taken reservoir apart and held it up in the air to try and bleed. I'm thinking maybe a bad thermostat, but I think I changed this about 3 years ago, but cannot remember. I'm thinking off flushing coolant by opening radiator and letting water run through system, then close and add coolant while holding reservoir in the air. Any thoughts, burnt resistor and harness attached??
Welcme to the forum.

The resistor and harness is only responsible for the fan motor, and it will not affect heat.

At what temperature does the engine run? If it maintains 190-220F you probably do not have a thermostat or air bubble problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcme to the forum.

The resistor and harness is only responsible for the fan motor, and it will not affect heat.

At what temperature does the engine run? If it maintains 190-220F you probably do not have a thermostat or air bubble problem.
Not sure John, wife hasn't been driving it since there's no heat. I just bleed again, so I'll leave it running with temp displayed on dash and get back to you. I guess the fried resistor and harness was still working then, because it's always blown just fine. Glad I caught it though.
 

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Not sure John, wife hasn't been driving it since there's no heat. I just bleed again, so I'll leave it running with temp displayed on dash and get back to you. I guess the fried resistor and harness was still working then, because it's always blown just fine. Glad I caught it though.
It is generally recommended that the blower not be used for extended periods at the highest setting, since that is the condition that produces the overload.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not sure John, wife hasn't been driving it since there's no heat. I just bleed again, so I'll leave it running with temp displayed on dash and get back to you. I guess the fried resistor and harness was still working then, because it's always blown just fine. Glad I caught it though.
Sitting in driveway it's gets between 195-201 degree's, then once I started driving it goes to about 178-184 degree's.
 

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Sitting in driveway it's gets between 195-201 degree's, then once I started driving it goes to about 178-184 degree's.
That behavior is just about perfect, so my thought is that the coolant system is okay, and the problem is within the heater.

With the car powered but not running I think (without testing for myself) that you should be able to hear the blend door actuator operate as you change the temperature control from hot to cold and back. I will be able to test that on my car in about an hour in case no one chimes in with a yes or no before I get out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That behavior is just about perfect, so my thought is that the coolant system is okay, and the problem is within the heater.

With the car powered but not running I think (without testing for myself) that you should be able to hear the blend door actuator operate as you change the temperature control from hot to cold and back. I will be able to test that on my car in about an hour in case no one chimes in with a yes or no before I get out there.
Yes it does turn when I change Temp. I changed this part about 3 years ago and it worked fine up to about a month ago. I'm thinking it went out again since it's a remanufacture part. I went ahead and ordered one since they're only $30 from AM Auto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes it does turn when I change Temp. I changed this part about 3 years ago and it worked fine up to about a month ago. I'm thinking it went out again since it's a remanufacture part. I went ahead and ordered one since they're only $30 from AM Auto.
Just to give everyone an update who may have same problem in the future. I always knew there were 2 actuators under the dash but had no idea they both had to do with temp control dial. I changed the upper one about 3 years ago and the heat worked fine. The lower one I assume controls the cold because before I put new actuator on I watched both gears and the lower one never moved. Once I took it off and plugged new actuator in, I tested to see if gear would move which it did. I assume since it was bad it was never moving off cold, reason for heat not working. Hope this makes sense.
 

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Just to give everyone an update who may have same problem in the future. I always knew there were 2 actuators under the dash but had no idea they both had to do with temp control dial. I changed the upper one about 3 years ago and the heat worked fine. The lower one I assume controls the cold because before I put new actuator on I watched both gears and the lower one never moved. Once I took it off and plugged new actuator in, I tested to see if gear would move which it did. I assume since it was bad it was never moving off cold, reason for heat not working. Hope this makes sense.
Hi,
I have the same problem, I checked the upper motor and when I turn the temperature dial, it moves, but the bottom one is stationary. So, I'm assuming I need to replace the bottom one. Are both motors the same part number? AZ lists 2 different motors, one is called an "Air Inlet" and the other is called "Distribution mode or Temperature"

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi,
I have the same problem, I checked the upper motor and when I turn the temperature dial, it moves, but the bottom one is stationary. So, I'm assuming I need to replace the bottom one. Are both motors the same part number? AZ lists 2 different motors, one is called an "Air Inlet" and the other is called "Distribution mode or Temperature"

Thanks
Yes Sir the same. AM Autoparts is about the best place I've found that are reasonably priced.
 

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I pulled the lower motor. I plugged in the connector from the upper motor. The motor works/moves fine. I reconnected it back to the original connector and I then did the calibration procedure several times. Each time the motor moves, but when the calibration procedure ends, the motor stops at an extreme position and then no longer moves with the adjustment of the control knob. The upper motor moves with every incremental adjustment of the temperature knob. I'm completely confused now. Do I need a new motor or is the problem in the control mechanism.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I pulled the lower motor. I plugged in the connector from the upper motor. The motor works/moves fine. I reconnected it back to the original connector and I then did the calibration procedure several times. Each time the motor moves, but when the calibration procedure ends, the motor stops at an extreme position and then no longer moves with the adjustment of the control knob. The upper motor moves with every incremental adjustment of the temperature knob. I'm completely confused now. Do I need a new motor or is the problem in the control mechanism.
New one on me, but everything I've encounter goes back to actuators. I wasn't worried about spending the $30-$40 (free shipping) on part, so I took the chance.
 
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