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Last year I had blower issues and it was a loose connector. Remove the glove box and check all the connectors. Maybe you'll get lucky
 

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Last year I had blower issues and it was a loose connector. Remove the glove box and check all the connectors. Maybe you'll get lucky
That resistor thingy that the blower plugs into is known to go bad, heat up, melt, etc.. at least it is one of the few things on the sol that is easy to get to.
 

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OK guys and gals, one more time. My check engine light came on and I fixed the first problem. Then my check engine light came on again. I took it to the auto store and they first said it was a breathing problem. Then had it checked again and they said it was the camshaft position circuit sensor. So I went awhile and when I had the money I was going to have it checked one last time. Unfortunately in didn't work for them to read the code. So I took it to another place and they said same thing. You tell me to check the fuse 29 but mine never had a fuse in it to begin with. And it was working. Explain that. It comes on then pops off again after so many days. When it is on my car looses power and runs poorly. When its off it runs right. Also my blower motor on my heater guit also. OK tap on the heater knob that turns it up and I fell heat but no blower. Then one day the blower came on again and when I turned my car off it never came back on. I have to check my relay for it first to see if that will fix that problem but I really need to know why check engine light is on. Can't cause port doesn't work please help me. Are thanks, Tanya. P.S. I can't afford to take it to the shop right now. HELP!!!!
 

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I think you (obviously) have more than one issue going on here. As for the blower motor, there are threads on here that discuss causes and solutions. When mine started acting up it was related to a connector under the BCM (body control module) which is under the passenger side floor board. It sounds a bit daunting but is actually pretty easy to access and remove to check the connections underneath it. (I'll try to search for the thread later but I included pictures in a write up "how to".)
 

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OK guys and gals, one more time. My check engine light came on and I fixed the first problem. Then my check engine light came on again. I took it to the auto store and they first said it was a breathing problem. Then had it checked again and they said it was the camshaft position circuit sensor. So I went awhile and when I had the money I was going to have it checked one last time. Unfortunately in didn't work for them to read the code. So I took it to another place and they said same thing. You tell me to check the fuse 29 but mine never had a fuse in it to begin with. And it was working. Explain that. It comes on then pops off again after so many days. When it is on my car looses power and runs poorly. When its off it runs right. Also my blower motor on my heater guit also. OK tap on the heater knob that turns it up and I fell heat but no blower. Then one day the blower came on again and when I turned my car off it never came back on. I have to check my relay for it first to see if that will fix that problem but I really need to know why check engine light is on. Can't cause port doesn't work please help me. Are thanks, Tanya. P.S. I can't afford to take it to the shop right now. HELP!!!!
Humor us, Tanya. It won't cost anything, and even if it sounds crazy it might work.

Get a fuse that you know is good and put it in the #29 fuse slot, then have the store try to read the OBD data.

If they are able to read the codes, write them all down and post them here. They might be either active or pending, but get them all.

If they still can't read anything, have them check the fuse to make sure it didn't blow. As ST said, your port could have gotten damaged somehow.
 

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It's possible for a scanner that has its own power source to work even if that fuse is missing. (Tech 2, high-end Autels, etc.) But, most scan tools - especially the lower-end stuff that you'll find at AutoZone, etc. - will use the +12V from the port for power. So: high-end, externally-powered scanner works, low-end scanner doesn't.

You need that fuse. There should be a spare 15A fuse in the fuse box, unless it's been borrowed and not replaced in the past. (They're labeled "Spare" in the legend in the fuse box.) Just pop it in. If it still doesn't work, check for connectivity between that fuse location and the port.

While we're at it - do you have power at the cigarette lighter? (Test with a multimeter, phone charger, radar detector or anything else that plugs in there?) I believe they get power from the same circuit.

As far as port damage is concerned: it's pretty easy to move the pins in the connector - say, when probing with a multimeter - to the point where they won't make good contact with anything plugged into the port. Easy fix, but hard to spot.

Regardless, the blower motor circuit has nothing to do with this. About the only thing they have in common is the battery.
 

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.........
While we're at it - do you have power at the cigarette lighter? (Test with a multimeter, phone charger, radar detector or anything else that plugs in there?) I believe they get power from the same circuit.
.........
How confident are you of this? I can't check it from where I am, but my memory of the circuit diagrams I have looked at says they are separate.
 

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How confident are you of this? I can't check it from where I am, but my memory of the circuit diagrams I have looked at says they are separate.
70%? They're on the same circuit on my Escalade. (And on my G35, but that's barely relevant.) The accessory plug is also non-switched. But, I am neither perfect nor omniscient.

In any case, as you and others have said: the correct solution is to install the fuse, regardless of when or how it went missing, and test for power at the port, followed by continuity between the port and the fuse.
 

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I think you (obviously) have more than one issue going on here. As for the blower motor, there are threads on here that discuss causes and solutions. When mine started acting up it was related to a connector under the BCM (body control module) which is under the passenger side floor board. It sounds a bit daunting but is actually pretty easy to access and remove to check the connections underneath it. (I'll try to search for the thread later but I included pictures in a write up "how to".)
Thank you for your input and if you find out anything else it would be appreciated. Tanya
 

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70%? They're on the same circuit on my Escalade. (And on my G35, but that's barely relevant.) The accessory plug is also non-switched. But, I am neither perfect nor omniscient.

In any case, as you and others have said: the correct solution is to install the fuse, regardless of when or how it went missing, and test for power at the port, followed by continuity between the port and the fuse.
So your saying to put a fuse in the 29 slot and then try port? And if not the continuity between fuse and port. I know that the OBD ports are hot wired are the 2008 Solstice hot wired also?
 

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Yes. The first step is to put a fuse in slot 29, then try the port.

The port is always hot, but you can only read the codes if the car is powered on.
 

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I just took this pic of my under hood fuse box (2006 2.4). The bottom of the fuse box lid has a fuse box diagram and a list of each fuse to the right. Fuse 29 is located to the left of the larger fuse 24.
106939


Unfortunately, the fuse box itself pic isn't as clear.
106940
 

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As the others have stated, try putting the fuse in first and - though the OBD port should be hot - you need to have the key on to read codes.

My blower motor adventure in this thread:

 

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Yes but your helpful
So your saying to put a fuse in the 29 slot and then try port? And if not the continuity between fuse and port. I know that the OBD ports are hot wired are the 2008 Solstice hot wired also?
Yes. The first step is to put a fuse in slot 29, then try the port.

The port is always hot, but you can only read the codes if the car is powered on.
I know this
 
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