[HHGadget]

Hey all. I ordered a black painted GXP Norm's front splitter back on January 13th. As expected, it took a while and i was in no rush. Had a few nice conversations on the phone and via email with Norm along the way.

Anyways, it just came in. So far it looks great and is typical of Norm's excellent workmanship out of the box.
Will post pics when it makes it onto the front of Sparkle Butt.

Here are the fresh outta the box (needs to be dusted off still) photos:

 

[4501 Safari]

Your photos are what I've wanted to see about the construction. Now another thing for the list!

That was pretty quick was it not?

Richard

 

[HHGadget]

Your photos are what I've wanted to see about the construction. Now another thing for the list!

That was pretty quick was it not?

Richard

4 months and 10 days.
Quick? No.
Expected and worth the wait? Absolutely

 

[Kappasky]

Nice! Are the Solstice splitters just shipped with the one part?
The Sky splitters have an additional support piece that bolts up under the center to stiffen up the middle.

 

[kgschlosser]

Solstice GXP's have 2 braces that hold the bottom middle of the bumper cover to the impact beam. That's factory like that so no worries a bout the bumper sagging from the additional weight.

I would however strongly recommend cold bending a piece of 1/8" x 1" aluminum flat bar to match the curve of the bumper where the bumper cover is held in place between the headlights. If you look there you will most definitely see where the bumper cover is wavy gravy between the screws. If you push down on one of those pumps and watch neat the grills you will see the shape of the cover change and it will lift up. Those waxy spots are one of the causes of a large gap forming between the hood and the bumper cover.

The additional weight of the fascia/splitter is going to make the problem worse. You cannot use the factory screws wit the aluminum bar. #8 wood screws fit perfect. you are going to have to counter sink the screws and get the ones that have flat tops on them. I strongly suggest stainless steel as well. On my car I added additional screws one between each of the original screws in the middle. added another 4 screws. What the bar does is it holds the bumper over with a more uniformly distributed pressure across that edge and it doesn't allow the cover to get pinch spots where the screws go through it.

When adding the bar the 2 adjustments near the hood hinges may need to be adjusted up a turn or two. First time closing the hood close it slow and watch to make sure the hood doesn't drag on the added bar.

10 dollar investment makes the body panel alignment between the hood and bumper cover soooo much better.


this is what the problem looks like.

and this is what it looks like when the bar is put in.

see the difference?

 

[HHGadget]

Just “snapped” it into place when I got home (temp fit for now so no fasteners)
Damn Norm is good. It almost doesn’t need fasteners the fit is so tight…

 

[alberta boy]

that splitter and recessed grilles really make the frt end look so much meaner and awesome over stock.

 

[pscartozzi]

Looks great. Sounds like you are really happy with it.

 

[HHGadget]

Keep in mind the car is elevated on jack stands right now so the wheel gap looks huge in these photos but it really just basically “snapped” on. Again I am just really impressed with Norms better-than-OEM quality work.

 

[agent008]

Your photos are what I've wanted to see about the construction. Now another thing for the list!

That was pretty quick was it not?

Richard

As the old engineering adage goes... Speed. Low price. Quality. Pick two...

 

[4501 Safari]

Not really a need to clarify, but 4 month's for the master's work to be created and delivered turnkey is pretty damn good compared to the forum's Norm archives. A old car friend of mine lives by the cheap good and fast trilogy. Unfortunately for his car everything is done quick and cheap...many times the same thing over and over. To me it's like thinking about what you're doing and hope you remember what you came into the garage for so you don't have to walk over the same path a dozen times, unless you just like the exercise.

Along with hopefully doing the job only once, I ascribe to the theory that inanimate objects are capable of independent movement and that's why the ____ (fill in whatever part or tool is appropriate) I just set down is not there when I turn around. Twilight Zone. And isn't in the tool box, or...

Richard Snipes

 

[HHGadget]

Well the point of my post was to reinforce the positive experience with Norm, but also set expectations on lead times for other folks reading the post.
I see a lot of complaining about Norm and i just dont understand it as all of the posts mention the lead times.
So I thought some positive experience posting would be nice.

And yes, his work is unbelievably good if you think about it. I ordered a fiberglass part that goes on top of a flexible plastic bumper cover that is 15 years old at this point, that is made by a guy across the country and it arrives and fits tighter and better than any of the OEM GM panels on the car.

Keep in mind i havent even installed it in these photos yet, it is just "sitting" on there.
Yay for Norm is all I can say

 

[HHGadget]

Nice! Are the Solstice splitters just shipped with the one part?
The Sky splitters have an additional support piece that bolts up under the center to stiffen up the middle.

Just one piece. The lower intake grill on the GXP provides a lot of support for the Norm's splitter as his splitter kind of slides into the hole.

Also, I will get another photo down low, but somehow Norms splitter is still not the lowest point of the front end. That is still the plastic part underneath the Intercooler / CAC that bolts from under into the two brace arms that run in front of the IC/CAC.
Which is good because "speed bumps/humps/ and dips" around here.

 

[kgschlosser]

what you may consider doing anyhow is what I did with the nose on my car. First is that metal bar to hold the bumper cover in place properly. The second thing is a trip to home depot, in the isle that has the deadbolts and fancy door handles for front doors you will find the metal pieces that screw into the bottoms of chair legs. It is a threaded metal rod maybe 1.5" long and has a metal disk on the end of it. They come in a package of 4. I mounted those along the bottom of the bumper under the car at the leading edge of the bumper. So if I give it a chin rash it slides on the metal disks and doesn't scratch the hell out of the bumper

 

[HHGadget]

what you may consider doing anyhow is what I did with the nose on my car. First is that metal bar to hold the bumper cover in place properly. The second thing is a trip to home depot, in the isle that has the deadbolts and fancy door handles for front doors you will find the metal pieces that screw into the bottoms of chair legs. It is a threaded metal rod maybe 1.5" long and has a metal disk on the end of it. They come in a package of 4. I mounted those along the bottom of the bumper under the car at the leading edge of the bumper. So if I give it a chin rash it slides on the metal disks and doesn't scratch the hell out of the bumper

This is an excellent idea!

 

[HHGadget]

Solstice GXP's have 2 braces that hold the bottom middle of the bumper cover to the impact beam. That's factory like that so no worries a bout the bumper sagging from the additional weight.

I would however strongly recommend cold bending a piece of 1/8" x 1" aluminum flat bar to match the curve of the bumper where the bumper cover is held in place between the headlights. If you look there you will most definitely see where the bumper cover is wavy gravy between the screws. If you push down on one of those pumps and watch neat the grills you will see the shape of the cover change and it will lift up. Those waxy spots are one of the causes of a large gap forming between the hood and the bumper cover.

The additional weight of the fascia/splitter is going to make the problem worse. You cannot use the factory screws wit the aluminum bar. #8 wood screws fit perfect. you are going to have to counter sink the screws and get the ones that have flat tops on them. I strongly suggest stainless steel as well. On my car I added additional screws one between each of the original screws in the middle. added another 4 screws. What the bar does is it holds the bumper over with a more uniformly distributed pressure across that edge and it doesn't allow the cover to get pinch spots where the screws go through it.

When adding the bar the 2 adjustments near the hood hinges may need to be adjusted up a turn or two. First time closing the hood close it slow and watch to make sure the hood doesn't drag on the added bar.

10 dollar investment makes the body panel alignment between the hood and bumper cover soooo much better.


this is what the problem looks like.

View attachment 120782


and this is what it looks like when the bar is put in.

View attachment 120783



see the difference?

DDM are you listening? Make a metal bar that is bent to fit, lined on the underside with a super thin rubber coating to protect the paint, holes pre-drilled with replacement screws provided and then offer "up-charge" for color match paint or powder coating. You could even do it as two pieces to reduce shipping?
Come on, this thing would sell itself. As these cars age this problem will become worse for most of us and preventing or repairing sag here is a worthwhile investment for those that want to keep these cars in the best shape possible.

 

[kgschlosser]

This is an excellent idea!

Isn't it??? You cannot see them from the top side and they are bolted through the bumper cover/splitter. So it will help to hold the 2 together at the bottom as well. I recommend picking up fender washers to put between the nut and the bumper cover. The cool thing is if you happen to get one of the disks hooked on something they will break off before any damage your bumper cover or splitter will happen. Like pulling over a curb stop too far and then backing up. if they get caught they will not turn your bumper cover inside out.

 

[kgschlosser]

also as far as that bar goes. If you open your hood and go to the front of your can and look straight down at the top of the bumper you will see 5 or 7 bolts (7mm) going through the top of the bumper cover. You cannot miss it!. That is where the bar goes. If you take your finger and push down between 2 of the factory bolts while watching the front of the bumper cover in alignment with you finger you will see the bumper cover change shape. If you squat down and push your finger down again you will see the bumper cover lift up. The hotter the sun the more sag there is going to be.

I polished the aluminum bar I made. took me all of about 30 minutes to get it to a mirror shine. I also did the same to the tops of the flat head screws. No need to rubber coat anything at all. The bar is the same thickness as the washer and head of the factory 7mm bolts. so if you hood is not scraping the factory bolt then it won't hit the bar. You have to make sure that the bar is tightened down all the way.

 

[kgschlosser]

The same thing happens on the rear bumper cover as well. It is not as bad as the front. If you look where the bumper cover meets the trunk/deck lid and look at the bumper cover at a shallow angle to that flat area just before it gets to the lid you will see waviness to it or "dimples" in the cover. Those dimples line up with where the screws go through the cover. Open the lid and you will see where the screws are and where a bar needs to be added to pinch the bumper cover evenly and eliminates the pressure hot spots causing the dimples.

It is easiest to see at dusk in the failing light. move your head and cause a reflection to move across that area of the paint. You will see distortions in the reflection

 

[HHGadget]

also as far as that bar goes. If you open your hood and go to the front of your can and look straight down at the top of the bumper you will see 5 or 7 bolts (7mm) going through the top of the bumper cover. You cannot miss it!. That is where the bar goes. If you take your finger and push down between 2 of the factory bolts while watching the front of the bumper cover in alignment with you finger you will see the bumper cover change shape. If you squat down and push your finger down again you will see the bumper cover lift up. The hotter the sun the more sag there is going to be.

I polished the aluminum bar I made. took me all of about 30 minutes to get it to a mirror shine. I also did the same to the tops of the flat head screws. No need to rubber coat anything at all. The bar is the same thickness as the washer and head of the factory 7mm bolts. so if you hood is not scraping the factory bolt then it won't hit the bar. You have to make sure that the bar is tightened down all the way.

Not everyone (myself included) has the time, patience and/or skills that you have KG. That's why i suggest it as an easy part for a vendor to make. Happy clients, profit for vendor, whats not to like?

As you can see from my photos here, the outside edge of my bumper covers have always left me a little disatisfied with the fit and finish. It's also a high stress edge with not a lot of support...

Obviously you have demonstrated it is an easy thing to make for you and some members i am sure would do the same. Color Matching and lining with a thin protective material would just notch up the professionalism, which is what is expected from our vendors so..
Anyways, just running with your idea. I am sure DDM or PAW or RPM aren't reading this thread anyways