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I used strips of nylon on the bottom of the front bumper. Worked great for my application.
Norm's GXP Front Splitter
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All I did to make it was I took a 2 x 4 that was 2' long and cut a slot in the middle of it 1/4" wide and 2" long. so I could slide the flat bar through The slot was 2 inches from one of the ends of the 2x4. I kneeled down with the bar between my knees and the long side of the 2x4 pointing up. I then grabbed the top of the 2 x 4 and using quick hammering like action moved the top of it away from me. This bent the bar along it's wide edge without causing it to wrap or buckle. That is because I was stretching the bar at the same time as bending it when the block of wood moved forward and the bar hit the inside edge of the slot. It's not much of a curve that has to be made and it's easy to do. Took maybe 15 minutes to get the bar curved.
1/8" x 1" x 4' aluminum flat bar $12.00 at home depot and the stainless steel #8 flat head wood screws are gotten in the same isle. I believe they are a buck for a pack of 5 of them, 2 packages.
Run with it. It is a simple thing to make, it solves not 1 but 2 problems (it stops dirt from getting caught in that spot). It improves the look of the car in 2 ways. when the hood is closed and when the hood is open!
1/8" x 1" x 4' aluminum flat bar $12.00 at home depot and the stainless steel #8 flat head wood screws are gotten in the same isle. I believe they are a buck for a pack of 5 of them, 2 packages.
Run with it. It is a simple thing to make, it solves not 1 but 2 problems (it stops dirt from getting caught in that spot). It improves the look of the car in 2 ways. when the hood is closed and when the hood is open!
The smile dimples as I like to call them on the cheeks of the bumper cover (down and outside of the headlights) is one of the causes of the crappy alignment to the hood on the outside edges.
Easy fix!
1/2" thick x 1" wide x 2" long blocks of dense foam (rigid foam insulation) tucked between the cover and the support frame push the dimples out. Then the flap that sits over the top of the support bracket needs to be kerf cut (3 slices 1/8" wide each) about an 1/8" away from the inside screw but between the 2 screws. Use a small round needle file and slot the screw holes in the bumper cover so the slots are perpendicular to the front edge. This will allow you to curve the top edge of the bumper cover so it matches the curve in the hood properly. lights hand tighten the screws so the cover doesn't move on it's own and pull the cover out so the screw sit at the backs of the elongated holes. close the hood and using the palm of your hand tap the cover into place so it aligns with the curve of the hood. Open the hood and tighten the screws up. I made metal bars for this spot as well just to make it look the same as the front.
The dimples are caused by the flap the screws go through and that top edge not being curved. The blocks of foam are temporary and can be taken out once the bumper cover has been in position and the curve at the top being corrected for a while. The length of time depends on temperature and sun. The cover is a compound curve in that area and it was being forced straight at the top edge. This cause the outward curve to literally want to "pop" inwards because that straight portion of the top edge sat behind the curved portion of the bumper. It naturally wants to be curved and once the kerf cuts are made and the top held in the right position you have to train the bumper cover where it needs to be and that is what the foam blocks do. I left mine in there and didn't take them out at all.
Depending on how bad the dimple is if you have the RK Sport bumper cover you will have to trim the flat section under the headlights so it's not as wide. Those flat areas coupled with the flat edge are what cause the corners next to the outsides of the headlights to stick out. dremil tool with a sanding drum attachment makes it easy to trim. It is not see when cut correctly. take too much off and you will see it so go slow and check fitment often.
Easy fix!
1/2" thick x 1" wide x 2" long blocks of dense foam (rigid foam insulation) tucked between the cover and the support frame push the dimples out. Then the flap that sits over the top of the support bracket needs to be kerf cut (3 slices 1/8" wide each) about an 1/8" away from the inside screw but between the 2 screws. Use a small round needle file and slot the screw holes in the bumper cover so the slots are perpendicular to the front edge. This will allow you to curve the top edge of the bumper cover so it matches the curve in the hood properly. lights hand tighten the screws so the cover doesn't move on it's own and pull the cover out so the screw sit at the backs of the elongated holes. close the hood and using the palm of your hand tap the cover into place so it aligns with the curve of the hood. Open the hood and tighten the screws up. I made metal bars for this spot as well just to make it look the same as the front.
The dimples are caused by the flap the screws go through and that top edge not being curved. The blocks of foam are temporary and can be taken out once the bumper cover has been in position and the curve at the top being corrected for a while. The length of time depends on temperature and sun. The cover is a compound curve in that area and it was being forced straight at the top edge. This cause the outward curve to literally want to "pop" inwards because that straight portion of the top edge sat behind the curved portion of the bumper. It naturally wants to be curved and once the kerf cuts are made and the top held in the right position you have to train the bumper cover where it needs to be and that is what the foam blocks do. I left mine in there and didn't take them out at all.
Depending on how bad the dimple is if you have the RK Sport bumper cover you will have to trim the flat section under the headlights so it's not as wide. Those flat areas coupled with the flat edge are what cause the corners next to the outsides of the headlights to stick out. dremil tool with a sanding drum attachment makes it easy to trim. It is not see when cut correctly. take too much off and you will see it so go slow and check fitment often.
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You all are really messing with my day with this thread. It's like a burning page turned book where you have to stay with it to see what's happening next. I'm a pretty good visual person and would like to see some complete images of the steps and pieces you have mentioned, KG, to make this support. The two by four jig also, if you still have it. Did you route out the slot for the bar or did I read too fast and miss something. Details of what Rob did with nylon would be helpful as well.
I had a little problem visualizing what you were talking about at first and still need to go back and read this new rabbit hole departure from the beginning. You offer very detailed dialogue and, with images...wowsers! I've been looking for those 7mm captured washer body screws in stainless for months and coming up empty. Haven't asked on here yet, but even with the best of care, and NO salt air, after almost 16 years they are beginning to show some surface rust.
Looking forward to each chapter!
Oh, and the best way to get DDM's attention is a direct send to Dave Michel, [email protected]
Thanks,
Richard Snipes
I had a little problem visualizing what you were talking about at first and still need to go back and read this new rabbit hole departure from the beginning. You offer very detailed dialogue and, with images...wowsers! I've been looking for those 7mm captured washer body screws in stainless for months and coming up empty. Haven't asked on here yet, but even with the best of care, and NO salt air, after almost 16 years they are beginning to show some surface rust.
Looking forward to each chapter!
Oh, and the best way to get DDM's attention is a direct send to Dave Michel, [email protected]
Thanks,
Richard Snipes
OK a 2' long 2 x 4. using a 1/4" drill bit drill through the middle of the 3.5" side 2" from the end. make a line of holes moving away from the end of the 2x4 that is 2-3" long. I moved the drill so angle it so it cleared out the material between the holes. This makes a slot. You can use whatever you want to make the slot. You want the slit to be no more than 1/8" wider than the aliminum bar is thick (1/8") All the slot does is keeps the aluminum bar from deflection when you bend it. Cold bending a piece of metal along it's wide edge when it's narrow edge is only 1/8" is impossible to do unless the bar is stretched at the same time and it's held from deflecting.
When you slam the 2 x 4 forward what happens is the top of the bar strikes the top of the slot on the side of the 2 x 4 that is farthest from you and the bottom edge of the bar strikes the bottom of the slot at the side that is closest to you. That bents the bar while stretching it enough so it doesn't buckle.
When I say slam I use it in the context of forming a piece of heavy sheet metal using a ball peen hammer.
When you slam the 2 x 4 forward what happens is the top of the bar strikes the top of the slot on the side of the 2 x 4 that is farthest from you and the bottom edge of the bar strikes the bottom of the slot at the side that is closest to you. That bents the bar while stretching it enough so it doesn't buckle.
When I say slam I use it in the context of forming a piece of heavy sheet metal using a ball peen hammer.
I will make a video for you if you want.
KG, I second Richard's suggestion/request for either pictures or a video as I just ordered a front splitter along with side skirts and a rear diffuser facia from Norm (who advised of at minimum, a 4-5 week lead time before he could ship). I'm hoping you'd be willing to post a picture of the artesian aluminum flat bar you created & mounted as it was my understanding from Norm that the splitter and additional ground effects I ordered are easy to mount and come with mounting hardware where necessary. I'm definitely not interested in improving the look & stance of my '09 GXP at the expense of creating bumper-droop or smile dimples - and you advanced guidance will prove very helpful when they arrive! Any visuals you might provide would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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FWIW, as an FYI the Norm's splitter is fiberglass and much stiffer than the OEM bumper cover. Just snapping it in place (until i have time to actually fasten it on correctly) already has stiffened the bumper cover's flexing. As a result I doubt Norms splitter will "add" to the droop. But i definitely acknowledge that is a "thing" and welcome anything proposed we can do to reinforce it. Especially a how to video.
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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3,816 Posts
It's KG's idea so I will leave that to his discretion to notify them or not. Whether they have interest is another matter. For me just getting some reinforcement above the side marker light section on the outside edges would be great as I mentioned earlier, that section has always seemed a little weak in how it was designed.
Front bumper cover support
There is an issue with how the front bumper cover is attached on the Solstice. There is a lack of support and it causes warping of the bumper cover which shows up as flat spots just below and outside of the headlights. I made a metal bar to goes along the top edge in the middle of the bumper...
www.solsticeforum.com
It will add to the sagging because it's weight added below where the sagging is occuring at, The sagging of the cover is what causes a large gap between the hood and bumper cover. The problem is at the top of the cover and not where the splitter is.
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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3,816 Posts
Will do. I told the car she doesnt get the new splitter "gift" facelift until she has learned to behave and play nice with the new clutch and turbo
LMAO!
We actually have sun today and it's not freezing cold out, Snowed again last night!!!!... I have to slap together some kind of a temporary upper radiator hose so I can get my solstice into my driveway. I have to cut up the tree that fell and landed behind the car. Missed it by 12". Show took the tree out this past Saturday, trunk snapped some 10' up. I have 2 other trees that uprooted and are leaning across my driveway that I have to cut up as well. Never a dull moment!!!
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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3,816 Posts
I can send ya my stock radiator hose if I can find it.
No charge, just let me know.
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18,479 Posts
I have lots of hoses. I already offered but he said he had it covered.
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When I mounted the front splitter on PunisheR it fit well and seemed to be plenty rigid enough for my needs. I tend to droop naturally anyway but then I am old and . . . like food.
I took it back off because since I installed the BC coilovers and lowered the car a bit, the splitter drags a LOT. It is on my list to figure out some day.
I took it back off because since I installed the BC coilovers and lowered the car a bit, the splitter drags a LOT. It is on my list to figure out some day.
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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3,816 Posts
well you are definitely closer RobI have lots of hoses. I already offered but he said he had it covered.
I am not going to say no if Rob wants to take a drive up to my place with Punisher to deliver the hose I am OK with that. If I had a drain pan that would fit under my car without lifting it (on soft ground) I would dain the coolant out and just move the car. It only needs to be running for 2 minutes at most. I don't want coolant puking out of the radiator and or the water neck on the head. So I just need something to put on so that doesn't happen.
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