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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
Its about time to get a oil change on my GXP.
Thinking about just going to Valvoline and getting a full synthetic oil change because they have a deal going on in my area.
I know this car has some quirks(or features, depending on how you look at it :), but is there anything I should know before taking it to them?
 

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Changing the oil is a basic procedure like on most cars.

do take note of a couple of quirks:

1) lifting the car. It is very easy to damage your fenders! The car has specific lift points that should be used and the jack or lift must be of a type that can get under there and the arms be far enough form the lifting pads so as to not touch your car's bodywork. If the place you are going to go for the oil change has a 4-arm car lift, you might want to stop at a sports store and buy 4 hockey pucks to put over the lift arm's pads. If you search around the forum you will find additional information.

2) the drain plug. It's an aluminum plug and easy to shear its head if it has been tightened over spec at the last oil change. Make sure a 6-point socket is used to remove it, at best a new one should be used every time you change the oil. Have a look at your local Autozone or O'Reilly or Napa parts etc. and get a new oil drain plug. Current part number is 11562588, old part numbers are 11519933; 03538469; 96829610; 11518377; 88891787; 11562588; 3538469; 03536964. Another recommended option is to get an aftermarket magnetic oil drain plug.

Besides that, make sure you change your oil filter, it's so cheap that it doesn't make sense to not change it with every oil change. And -- use only fully synthetic 5W30 oil!
 

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If you have long-ish arms, you can simply reach in and loosen the drain plug without jacking the car up. Turning the wheels to the right helps.
Use shallow drain pan since the car is quite low.
 

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Valvoline in this area use pits instead of lifts, so lifting may not be an issue, but I would verify that.
@agent008 's point about the drain plug is a good one, you need to warn them about overtightening it.
I am Ok with re-using the plug, however.
Warn them to not close the hood with the doors open, but that won't be an issue if you stay in the car.
 
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Valvoline in this area use pits instead of lifts, so lifting may not be an issue, but I would verify that.
@agent008 's point about the drain plug is a good one, you need to warn them about overtightening it.
I am Ok with re-using the plug, however.
Warn them to not close the hood with the doors open, but that won't be an issue if you stay in the car.

interesting point on tightening drain plug, my walmart will not tighten a drain plug (actually won't even drain the oil) unless they have a factory spec on the drain plug torque. they would not change the oil on my 62 corvette because they don't have a spec for the drain plug torque....

Bill
 

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I have never been aware of this and I am intrigued by this. What is the concern?

Thanks.
If a door is open the hood may hit it when dropped closed. There is a label on the Sky fender warning of this, but i suppose the Solstice may be different enough in that area for it to not be a concern.
 
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Thanks - I've never heard that, but I suspect you're correct that the difference in body panels between Sky and Solstice may make it moot for the Solstice (more rounded, where Sky is much more angular).

I may test it (very carefully) to see if it's an issue.
 

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the hood should NEVER be dropped to close it. It should be lowered by hand all the way down until the d ring rests on the latch. Then using 2 hands placed between where the latch is and the corner of the hood is push down on the hood to get it to latch. walk to the other side of the car and do the same thing to latch it. ALWAYS pull up on the hood after latching it to make sure the latch has locked in place.

Letting the hood drop is not wise to do. If the hood is not 100% aligned and the tops are not where they need to be the edge of the hood can smack into the fender and the corner of the door can smack into the door. doesn't mater if the door is opened or closed.

The hood is too large to let drop like that. You also have the fact that letting it drop like that can break the latches and/or push the D ring in. The hood falling like that also doesn't allow the hood hinges to work the way they should which keeps the leading edge of the hood raised and then lowers the entire hood into position at the same time. The movement of the hood as it closes is actually quite an interesting bit of engineering but can be prone to issues if the hood is moving to fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just got the service done. It went okay. It seemed they had alot of trouble getting something un screwed in the engine and had to try to screw it back on twice. It also dripped alittle oil after when I parked it, but only that day, havnt seen any since so I assume they were just messy and didn't clean up. Also left some.oil on my fender. All in all they were kinda messy, but it seemed like they did it alright.
 

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Just got the service done. It went okay. It seemed they had alot of trouble getting something un screwed in the engine and had to try to screw it back on twice. It also dripped alittle oil after when I parked it, but only that day, havnt seen any since so I assume they were just messy and didn't clean up. Also left some.oil on my fender. All in all they were kinda messy, but it seemed like they did it alright.
Ooooh boy they might have screwed up your oil plug. I would get back there immediately and ask them to put the car on the pit and go down there on the pit and have a looksee under your engine. Take some good photos of the drain plug and post them here if you are in doubt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ooooh boy they might have screwed up your oil plug. I would get back there immediately and ask them to put the car on the pit and go down there on the pit and have a looksee under your engine. Take some good photos of the drain plug and post them here if you are in doubt.
I have ramps, should I drive up on them really quik to get the pics and post them? Last time I went there it was like an hour wait to pull up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have ramps, should I drive up on them really quik to get the pics and post them? Last time I went there it was like an hour wait to pull up.
I just pulled my dipstick. It's about 1/2 inch over the max fill line. How big of a deal is this? I over heard them say "fill 6 quarts" just did a search and Google says 5 quarts. Is this something I should get fixed?
 

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I just pulled my dipstick. It's about 1/2 inch over the max fill line. How big of a deal is this? I over heard them say "fill 6 quarts" just did a search and Google says 5 quarts. Is this something I should get fixed?
Definitely. I don't believe excess oil would be any good to the engine, in fact a more extreme case might be bad. Plus they overcharged you probably since they sold you an extra quart of oil.

I would get on the phone with them in a heartbeat and have them fix it. They should put it on the ramp or pit and let you have a look. Check the drain plug for seepage, drips and for signs of wear (as in too much wrench marking on the drain plug head). If you feel the plug has been reused or overtightened, you should ask them to install a new one. Factory torque for the plug is 25Nm or 18.4 lb.ft. You can get it from Rock Auto or AutoZone if the Valvoline place doesn't stock them. And last of all, have they drain that extra quart of oil and refund you for overselling!

PS. This time around it would be ideal if you could stay with the car and watch them do the service. If you have a mechanically savvy friend it's time he/she did you a solid and came along to the oil shop to watch the guys as they drain your oil/replace the plug and fix the screwups they did.
 
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