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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a few questions for you guys before I install these over the weekend. I daily drive my car btw.

1. Ive heard on here that some people cut the air flap under the front bumper a few inches to accommodate the drop. Is that necessary, or have some of you managed to leave it alone. I would hate to have to cut it.

2. When I get an alignment should I just let the guys do their thing, or should I have some specifics on the set up. I am a little concerned because when I lowered my 350z I had terrible tire wear issues. Is the solstice more adjustable? Will I have any tire wear issues or will the alignment fix all that? Do you have any recommended settings for the street/occasional mountain
driving?

3. I read a thread about installing the springs and noticed that I will need to get a spring compressor. Is there anything else needed, or is pretty much straight forward.

Thanks in advance for the help. :)
 

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I cut my air dam, it sounds like your scrapping every time you hit a bump/dip. I got an regular alignment. You can rent a spring compressor, I just took mine out into the grass, unscrewed and prayed it didn't hit my ankles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How did you cut it? is there a best method? I want it to look clean if i do. If you don't have a spring compressor, how do you put it back together?
 

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Razor blade, the lowering springs are shorter just have some one push down on the top and tighten the nut before it springs back up.
 

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My B&G's are pretty low and I have not had to cut anything but it depends on your terrain. My lower lip scrapes on my driveway, sometimes.

With the B&G's, set the height where you want it and add a 1/2 inch higher (taller). Once they settle in they will drop about that much in the first couple weeks. Then get your alignment. I made this mistake and I need to raise them and go get another alignment. I have no wear issues and I went pretty low. Be sure to give them time to settle I can't stress enough. 2 weeks of daily driving should do it.

I installed mine myself. There are a couple threads to show how best to remove the srpings. You will not need anything to compress springs. They will unbolt, pull out together and re-bolt the new B&G's. You only need to spring compress if you were changing OEM springs to Eibach's.

Don't be afraid of using the BFH. You will need to hit it hard. Once it was on Jack stands, it was about a 2 1/2 hour job on you own. Cursing rant times not included.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
^ Thanks for all the advice. I only bought springs so I dont think i can adjust the height. They said it would drop 1.75 inches front and back. What is BFH?
 

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Well the BFH is quite the handy tool used for quite an assortment of jobs from getting components off to making them fit into place. It's also been known to help rid of aggression and frustration when used properly.

fine print:not recommended to be used on glass,extremely delicate material or loved ones

Bert
 

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Have Eibachs on my car and did not cut the air dam it will scrape slightly on some driveways but so far so good as CDFlint posted once the springs are installed it will take a couple of weeks to settle so I also waited to get the alignment Good Luck and work safe!
 

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My bad, I did not know B&G only sold springs. Yeah the BFH will not be needed. What is the spring rate for what you purchased and where did you get them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Man. What a pain in the ass to install. Took it to a shop called west end and got a full alignment. They even had me sit in the car to account for my weight. They set it up for an aggressive street because it's my daily and occasionally take it to the mountain roads.

I am glad I took it to these guys because apparently there is a special tool required to adjust the caster?
 

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yeah, there's a special tool/fitting to set the caster that sits on the knuckle, it's pretty involved. surprised they even tackled it to be honest.
 
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