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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, so for a while my check engine light was on with a cylinder #1 misfire, it never hurt performance so I hadn't gotten around to getting a coil pack (what the shop said would fix it) ...just the other day when I started the car it was shaking very hard at idle and the idle kept jumping up and down and the car was sounding like it was wanting to shut off, the check engine light started blinking, so I turned it off. I put in a new coil pack thinking it had just finally gone all the way bad, and It did not fix it, so I scanned the car and these were the two codes I received, besides one for cylinder #1 misfire and cylinder #4 misfire ...I also have 4 new spark plugs I will be putting in once I figure out how to fix the P0261 & P0368 codes...can anyone help me out?

P0261 = cylinder 1 injector control circuit low
P0368 = camshaft position sensor b - bank 1 circuit high input

...how can I fix these? thanks guys
 

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Check your connections for both camshaft actuators.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, those are the two electrical type that are right in front of the first coilpack, correct? Also I read on here it's ok to discard the insulation layer that's right under the plastic engine cover...is this true or should I keep it on there?
 

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Ok, those are the two electrical type that are right in front of the first coilpack, correct? Also I read on here it's ok to discard the insulation layer that's right under the plastic engine cover...is this true or should I keep it on there?
What was the GM engineers name that told you that you could remove it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
no no, I remember reading something about it on the forum...I didnt remove it, I was just asking if this was correct or not...I believe someone was asking about removing it and said that they were told it actually causes the engine to run warmer than without it...My thoughts would be that it is there for a reason, and seems like an insulator, so im assuming it is there to keep the engine cooler...but then again, there are always design flaws
 

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no no, I remember reading something about it on the forum...I didnt remove it, I was just asking if this was correct or not...I believe someone was asking about removing it and said that they were told it actually causes the engine to run warmer than without it...My thoughts would be that it is there for a reason, and seems like an insulator, so im assuming it is there to keep the engine cooler...but then again, there are always design flaws
Scared me, I thought maybe you had fresh scoop!:thumbs:
 

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It's perfectly OK to remove the plastic engine cover and the insulator underneath. I (and many others) have done this and have done so for many years and miles without problem. It's just cosmetic.

Now I probably wouldn't remove the insulator yet keep the plastic cover on. It may well be OK, but the plastic could be affected by heat.
 

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It's perfectly OK to remove the plastic engine cover and the insulator underneath. I (and many others) have done this and have done so for many years and miles without problem. It's just cosmetic.

Now I probably wouldn't remove the insulator yet keep the plastic cover on. It may well be OK, but the plastic could be affected by heat.
:agree: Yeah - what he said.

I haven't look underneath mine when I've had it off and probably should. It's likely made of nylon and would probably hold up alright without the insulation. I wouldn't trust it to do so, however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Changed all spark plugs, clipped all coilpacks in securely and still idling terrible and threw the same codes (cylinder #1 and #4 missfire and the P0261 & P0368)...all plugs were gapped .32 to .35 ...I am not positive which are the camshaft actuators, but I checked the two connections that are in front of the coilpacks and
They both were secure....
 

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The camshaft actuators are in front of the 1st coil pack. Did you inspect the wires going to each connector?.
Although the codes you have are not the codes for the actuators.
What spark plugs did you get?. AC Delco 41-108? Gap should be as close to .32 as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I checked the wires as best I could...it all seemed to be fine...is there something specific I should look for? What should my next step be if the wires check out? I'm assuming I should not drive to my mechanic (12 miles) as the check engine light blinks and I've heard this means "pull over now"
 

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OK, code 261 is a short to ground in injector 1 control circuit. Disconnect the injector and w/ DMM test BR wire for short to ground (engine off, key out). Then test for 1.5 ohm +/- 0.15 ohm between terminals on injector and then for infinite resistance between each terminal and injector case. If either fail, replace injector.
code 368 is more complicated, but is the sensor, not actuator. 3 wires, GY,TN and D-GN.
Disconnect harness; test for <1ohm TN wire to ground. Turn ign. on, engine off, test GY wire to ground for 4.8-5.2 Volts. Do same for D-GN wire.

Report what you find for further testing.
 
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