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I posted this in the general section thinking it was gxp do this is a second post. I was driving today and got a cel. Pulled those codes. I pulled the plugs and this is what they all look like. Only have 39,000 and the car runs fine with a little rough idle at times. Battery tests at 13.5 volts so it’s not that. The radio just started going blank a couple weeks ago but still plays fine and it will come back to displaying everything at times. It has come back in the last few days with no problems. I also cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the plugs for the hell of it. $38 and 25 minutes of my time is no big deal. I drove it for 15 miles and 20 minutes or so. The cel flashed five or six times and then went away and didn’t come back on before I turned off the car. I also threw in a bottle if fuel system cleaner after seeing another thread where they had bad carbon build up on the rings. I’m at a loss. Strange that all 4 cylinders have misfire even though the car runs fine. Always use 93 shell, never below 1/4 tank. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 8F64562A-745F-4D20-87E5-DB12702F95AB.jpeg 16AF632A-B0E2-40A2-A2F6-3CEFF7E645C8.jpeg
 

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No need to post twice. New posts show up in all feeds.
Ok, gotcha. Thanks. I did replace the plugs. I don’t think that will fix the issue but for the short drive I took it seems better. I plan on driving more this weekend to see what happens. I have a feeling it’s wiring. Very strange all 4 cylinders start reading a misfire at the same time and wiring seems to be the only commonality besides HPFP. Which btw I hit the rev limiter earlier this year and caused it to go into limp mode. Cel came on and I limped it home for 45 minutes. However, it cleared itself up a few miles from my house and haven’t had an issue since.
 

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Update today. As suspected the cel came on. New plugs, clean the MAF sensors, checked for any wires that have rubbed through the loom or insulation and couldn’t find any bad wires, also checked the compression and they were all at or around 155. I didn’t get the code pulled this time but will to see if it comes back the same which I’m sure it will. I did notice during compression test that I had a bunch of tiny black carbon pieces in the bottom of the valve cover. I’m wondering if carbon could be an issue even though I only have 39,000 miles. Any other suggestions on what I can try? I don’t want to go to the dealer if I don’t have too. Thanks?
 

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Well my cel came back on. Still the same codes. No noticeable difference in driving or idling which puzzles me. I’m contemplating changing the HPFP as earlier this year I hit the rev limiter and caused the HPFP to make the car go into limp mode. I can’t remember the code off the top of my head but when we got home the cel went off and the car came out of limp mode. I wonder if I damaged the HPFP then and it’s now causing issues? Any ideas?
 

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I have bounced off of the rev limiter at least twice with no damage, so that by itself doesn't seem like the cause.
 
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I highly doubt you hurt the hpfp. My car has bounced off the rev limiter several times, and several times since it's been moved to 7k with my tune. You said your radio goes blank in your OP. I will say this...just because your battery measures xx.x volts with a volt meter means nothing. Your battery might not put out 13.5v under load. The only way to truly tell if a battery is good is to take it to a dealer and have them do an overnight load test. Then and only then will you know the health of your battery. How long ago did you replace your battery? By what you described, it's time to replace the battery for sure. Very minor voltage issues can cause the CEL and different, weird codes.

Dumb question here guys, but isn't 13.5v a bit much for a car battery? Aren't they usually like 12.8v????
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I highly doubt you hurt the hpfp. My car has bounced off the rev limiter several times, and several times since it's been moved to 7k with my tune. You said your radio goes blank in your OP. I will say this...just because your battery measures xx.x volts with a volt meter means nothing. Your battery might not put out 13.5v under load. The only way to truly tell if a battery is good is to take it to a dealer and have them do an overnight load test. Then and only then will you know the health of your battery. How long ago did you replace your battery? By what you described, it's time to replace the battery for sure. Very minor voltage issues can cause the CEL and different, weird codes.

Dumb question here guys, but isn't 13.5v a bit much for a car battery? Aren't they usually like 12.8v????
Yes, I have had some weird issues with the radio lately. I actually still have the original battery from the factory so it’s 12/13 years old. I wasn’t aware that small voltage issues could cause problems like this possibly. Hopefully that is the issue. Looks like I’ll be looking at batteries for our car. I’ll add this is the first year that I haven’t had it on a battery tender also. We moved to Florida so it’s a year round driver now.
As for the HPFP. When I hit the limiter it did cause the cel to come on and the pump was making a very erratic noise. Not the normal rhythmic one. I drove it home 45 minutes or so in limp mode then it just fixed itself. That’s why I was curious if I may have damaged it since the cel came on and the weird noise got 45 minutes or so.
 

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Update this morning. Finally exhausted my abilities at home so I took it to the dealer. Told them what I had done as far as plugs, battery, checking ground on front of block, etc... I pull up, service rep greats me and I have a brief discussion about the above. He pulls out a code reader and checks the codes. Same as autozone says. Also tells me about a recall with passenger restraint system. Ok. Get a call and it’s all fixed and nothing was found wrong!!! I’m at work and got the message so I had my wife call. She asks them what they did. Fixed the recall and drove it for 20 minutes and can’t duplicate the issue. Umm, what about the cel? Oh, it’s off. Ok, how did you get it off? It wasn’t on. 😡😡😡. My wife knows a little about cars. She said let me guess you did the recall first therefore disconnecting the battery and then that cancelled the cel. Yes, we did the recall first. 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ I told them there’s no misfire felt while driving first thing. Anyways, she said well you can pay for a couple of hours of in depth diagnostic if you want? My wife said I thought that’s what you were going to do in the first place. Then she says if the cel isn’t on we really can’t do much🤨🤨🤨. It was on when we gave you the car. It’s not on now. I’m a little more patient than my wife. Needless to say she is pissed and said no more business there. We will find another dealer when it comes back on. I liked the guy I talked with but the lady my wife talked to was very unprofessional and very short and rude. So, now we wait for it to come back on😞😞😞
 

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Beyond the "Oh good grief" that was my first thought, why would they disconnect the battery to remove the seat? There is a single plug that disconnects the whole thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Beyond the "Oh good grief" that was my first thought, why would they disconnect the battery to remove the seat? There is a single plug that disconnects the whole thing.
That’s what I thought. I’m guessing that they disconnected the battery. That’s the only way the cel would have not been on. Unless for some crazy reason the cel actually went off without them disconnecting the battery.
 
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