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I had 2 days off decided to wash, clay, compounds, polish, wash and wax. I know my car has seen some bad days. left at a frac sand truck yard for 2-6months at a time scratches are stronk. the clear however is still on the paint. Car has had some heavy waxing before being left to sit. I now have my car daily wash and clean often i notice some paint fade I thought might be oxidation in the clear. wash clay then hit it with compound the car is smooth as glass can actually see the glittery flake but under parts of the clear on the hood and trunk the paint color / tone varies its hard to see sometimes but in the right light its there. I know its nothing I can do to correct this and long since have had plans on repainting waiting on bodykit. I thought it might have been clear coat issue(maybe it is) but what would cause this? bad UV from factory, heat?, bad base coating? and has anyone else seen this before?













shot after polish before wax

 

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Tough to tell by the photos but my guess is clear coat issue due to the car not being properly taken care of and if it was parked out in the southwest sun for any length of time uncovered this is probably the result . You might want to try a clear coat safe rubbing compound such as Griots Garage Complete Compound or Meguiar's Clear Coat Safe I've used both with good results . Good Luck !
 

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One can't see the pictures unless they are logged into a Google account. Any chance you can make them public so us other plugs could see them?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the photos are not private, i dont like the photo link command on this site.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2ihXZ152nQH1qme87

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7UBALh1G39dXjgjs8

i used CG v32 compound then V36 polish car came out smooth as glass shines like plastic but the hood and truck when you stand over it still has that line i might hit it again on my next day off to get better results but i know the clear is breaking down strange to see the discoloration under it.
 

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Car ever had body work done on it that you know of? The fact that it is a jagged "transition" makes me wonder if someone "feathered" the paint out and re-clear coated afterward.

The UV stabilizers would generally be evenly distributed throughout the paint so you would expect a panel, a door, etc to have an overall issue with fading. That is to say, a different lot of paint, a pre-painted panel (nose for example) that comes in from a supplier using a different lot of paint, would likely result in an area-wide difference in UV stability. A "splotch" could occur during painting but would be less likely. A "line" would be less likely (in my mind anyway) during an overall paint application.
 

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If you can find someone with a film build gauge measure the difference between the two areas (Elcometer). Individual layer analysis is only available with a costly PELT Ultasonic tool that most places do not have. A body shop may have a total layer gauge. The factory TOTAL film build spec for a hood should be between 5 to 6 mil plus or minus .2. A repainted area paint thickness would be much higher ( 8-9 mil)
 
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