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Disclaimer: I'm a old Chevy guy, I know old Chevy big and small blocks very well. When it comes to he newer ECM controlled cars I'm basically a parts changer. The CEL light comes on, I pull the code and fix or replace the part indicated. I know what most of the sensors do or control and how to test them to make sure I'm replacing the right part. The basics of a internal combustion engine are the same whether it's electronically controlled or not. Pistons don't care how the fuel, air mixture is metered. You can pour gas straight into the intake and as long as it gets into the combustion chamber and there's a spark and a explosion the piston will go down. So as long as you know the basics of how a engine works it then just a matter of learning how the ECM controls the systems that control the basic functions. Piece of cake right? Not even close, I'm learning the various functions of the ECM by working on those systems as I go. A month ago I knew nothing about turbo's except that they produce boost. Now that I've seen how their a part of a whole system and having torn a turbo apart I understand a lot more about turbo's. I'm always learning and asking questions from people that have more experience than I do. Thank you to all the people on this forum that answer my questions and take the time to educate me!!
 

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They have found that a sharp decrease in engine RPM causes the engine to release a bunch of excess emissions so they rev hang and control how fast the throttle plate closes taking the control away from the operator. I can show you log files where I let off the accelerator and for a full 3 seconds the ECM waits before closing the throttle plate. 3 seconds is a really long time and in that amount of time a Solstice can increase in speed as much as 5-8 MPH even tho the person in control has commanded the vehicle to decelerate. This is a very bad thing.
 

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well when the Solstice was made was when drive by wire really started getting used and the computers that were used in the cars were simply not up to snuff for the amount of polling of the sensors that needed to be done to give a better response. There are also smoothing routines for the accelerator position where the buffers were simply too large for how fast that polling was taking place. If I had access to the source code for the ECM I know I could improve it and make it run a hell of a lot faster then it does by cleaning up the code and spending the time to optimize each function for speed given the available resources. I do a really good job improving the way a program works.

I wrote a piece of software that handles everything home automation and it is able to run using < 200mb of memory and takes up < 100mb of drive space and it's the fastest home automation software written to date. I spent a HUGE amount of time testing speed and checking resource use to find the best balance of the 2. I have used other software and set up simple things like when light "A" turns on then turn on light "B". With my software it takes about 100 milliseconds until light "B" turns on after light "A" is. Other software.. a minute later, 5 minutes later and sometimes never. A user of my software once said "It is the only software that you have the ability to open your garage door with an XBox controller.". Crazy thing is you actually can!
 

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Hi KG, not long before I got rid of my Jetta the transmission input speed sensor quit working but what was odd is it wouldn't move in any forward gears but reverse still worked. It doesn't make any sense to me. Any idea why?
 

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Yup I know why It's because it's made by VW... LMAO
 

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I talked to the guy at PAW and he told me that the cheaper ZZP turbo is a really good turbo for the price and said I would need at least a 3 bar map sensor which I was reading about and from what I understand it's good to around 27 psi boost which I hit 27 psi once and then let off the throttle. Mike said the turbo can run at 30 psi continuously but is there a benefit from running the boost that high. Also I read that if you're bumping max boost it would be better to use a 4 bar map. What's your opinion?
 

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get the 3.5 bar sensors from PAW. They are sold as a kit for 120.00 and they include the pigtail harnesses and also the o-rings.

The only things you have to do is push the metal spacer out that is in the sensor where the bolt goes through and put the o-rings on. You will need to get a tune done.

ZZP doesn't make any turbo kits for the Solstice. You have to read the descriptions carefully because every single kit they have that is for the ecotec platform states right in it that it will not work on a Solstice or a Sky. If you go into the "Kappa" section and into the turbo kits under the Kappa section there is not one single turbo kit available.
 

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That's weird because PAW is selling it for the gxp, redline and opal gt. ZZP's website says it not yet available but is under development but there's so date as to when the that was posted. So maybe it's been released for the gxp. I'll call PAW tomorrow and figure out what's going on.
 

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PAW has done something to get it to fit. I know with the larger turbos the wastegate will not fit in it's stock form. Maybe they have a bracket for the actuator that allows it to fit. or they may be doing away with the internal gate altogether and using an external one. IDK. I haven't looked into it.
 

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The Z54 on PAW's website has the turbine house they make and an external wastegate. That is why the price is almost 2 grand VS what ZZP sells them for which is 1299.

I would be extremely hesistant about buying the ZZP one because you know they are not making them in house and to come in at 1/2 the price that BorgWarner sells there is going to be parts in it that are not up to the same quality. BorgWarner mass produces and ZZP does not.
 

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kerosene can be used if you suspect oil in there as well. Just make sure you let it sit around for a bunch of days to evaporate before putting it back onto the vehicle
 

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I know there's oil in it from the pcv system and from when the turbo blew. When I pulled the the pipe off the turbo there was oil in it. My biggest concern is getting all the metel out.
I would stick with mechanical means as much as possible. Use a shop vac attached to the inlet side to create as much reverse airflow as possible, invert it to let gravity help move any particles, and then use a low-pressure air gun at the exit to agitate the airflow as much as possible.

After that i would use water with a detergent followed by a water rinse to wash out any particles remaining, again flowing from exit to inlet. I would avoid any flammable solvents for obvious safety reasons, and any oily solvents because they are likely to cause particles to stick to the walls where they can then be broken loose while driving by heat vibration and airflow.
 

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Issue is water and soap is not going to dissolve the caked on oil.
 

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What I was thinking is to use a liquid degrease. Plug the inlet, turn the inter cooler on end with the outlet up, fill it up and let it sit a couple days so that any sludge in the bottom will complete dissolve then do like you said, use my shop vac and follow up with a detergent flush and then a clean water flush to make sure that it's completely cleaned of any detergent residue
 
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