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What would be the best things to get as far as performance parts for the Solstice?

I am a newbie when it comes to car stuff (my goal this summer is to learn more though), but have played Gran Turismo enough to know that Port & Polish and a Turbo would give it a hefty boost in power, but how much are we talking for these upgrades?

If these parts/installations etc are going to be out of this world in cost I'll just lease the car since I don't much anyway.
 

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The most basic mods to make would be in getting the engine to breathe better. This would mean a free flow intake and header exhaust. This alone would add up to 10 more HP. The best thing is that this would cost about $500 or less and could be done in an afternoon. The other mod would be a change in the computer , either an add-on or a whole new computer. This could add 10-30hp in addition to the above and would cost $500+/-. I figure without going to a charged system{turbo or supercharger}that this engine could be brought to 200 hp. This is what I am planning on doing as I don't plan on racing it but will be using it daily. A turbo will make it go fast but you will pay for it big time. It will take more fuel and at a higher grade and it will wear the engine out faster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Risen Son Racin are those mods easy to do?
 

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There will supposedly be a GM official catback exhaust and intake available at delivery according to things we've seen online.
 

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brentil said:
There will supposedly be a GM official catback exhaust and intake available at delivery according to things we've seen online.
Those options should be relatively cheap, I'm guessing less than a grand installed. And the good thing is if dealer installed they will be covered by the 3/36k warranty. The cheapest small boost in hp can be done usually for less than $60 and consists simply of a K&N or similar freeflow air cleaner exact replacement for the oem paper element. The diff is immediatley noticeable. A true cold air box which moves the intake and uses a larger filter such as what Brentil described being available with or without the catback exhaust will add even more. Just so they don't put the intake at below the water line like I've seen the Honda kits. Hit a low spot in the highway during a rainstorm and you literally flood the engine.
 

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achieftain said:
The cheapest small boost in hp can be done usually for less than $60 and consists simply of a K&N or similar freeflow air cleaner exact replacement for the oem paper element. The diff is immediatley noticeable.
Only on cars where the OEM filer is overly restrictive. I know from experience that a replacement K&N adds no HP to a Miata compared to the OEM, only a slight increase in intake noise. In fact removing the filter from the air box adds no real measurable HP on a Miata.
 

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I am sure there will be plenty of performance parts available eventually. We're just going to have to be content with just having the car for a while before we can start enhancing our babies.
 

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salstice said:
:agree: Most modern performance cars don't really get a significant increase from a drop in filter. It helps, but probably not as much as we'd like.
Its more of a psychological advantage. It makes the intake sound louder, faster. So you think the car is just a little quicker, even if its not!
 

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salstice said:
:agree: Most modern performance cars don't really get a significant increase from a drop in filter. It helps, but probably not as much as we'd like.
What I noticed most immediate and this is only my experience is an almost immediate increase of 1-1 1/2 mpg, which in today's world will pay for the filter pretty quick.
 

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Ratio Rockers?

Do any of you expect a set of ratio rockers to become available for this car? I have seen them add a significant boost to other small dispacement cars. And, for what you get, they are pretty cheap to buy and easy to install. I have not seen the inside of the topside of the engine for the Sol, so I do not know if the cam presses directly onto the valve stem, or if there are rockers. Anybody seen this view?
 

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since this is an overhead cam motor, the proper name is "cam followers" rather than "rocker arms." One of the big aftermarket manufacturers just release a set for the 2.2L ecotec, but to my understanding they are the standard size/ratio and are only intended for increased reliability and rpm stability (they are lighter, therefore reducing the weight the spring must fight against to close the valve, decreasing valve float at high rpms). I don't know if the same followers will work with the VVT of the 2.4L, but even so, there won't be a noticeable performance gain. Once the cars are out, we'll see exactly how the cam phasing works (ie. progressive of instantaneous), if adjustable cam pullies are useable or beneficial, and if an aftermaket camshaft(s) upgrade will come availble (perhaps the non VVT units available for the 2.2 will be useable for all-out performance cars).

As for the discussion on the intake, you'll notice that the intake is placed out of the engine compartment and directly in the stream of cool air coming towards the radiator. The filter box looks huge, but normally GM air boxes can be modified to delete the silencers and pick up some noticeable flow.

When it comes to the exhaust, don't forget about the advantages of changing exhaust material and also replacing or deleting the cats. Most GM cats can be replaced w/ aftermarket high-flow units that will offer up something in the area of 2-7rwhp on an otherwise stock car that also has a high-flow muffler which could potentially add another 10hp in an optimised cat-back exhaust. The material advatage I speak of is weight. By going to a titaium system I'm guessing you could save upwards of 15lbs....which in a relatively low-powered car, weightsavings does make a difference. On my 95 Z28, I was able to save 18 lbs with an aluminized cat-back system when compared to factory.
 

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The best way to make this engine sing is forced induction. Intake & Exhaust are great, but to really have fun there needs to be a supercharger like on the 2.0ltr Ecotec in the Cobalt SS. The Cobalt is rated at 205hp, but I have seen dyno's with them putting down over 210 at the wheels.
 

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SRT4Geezer said:
The best way to make this engine sing is forced induction. Intake & Exhaust are great, but to really have fun there needs to be a supercharger like on the 2.0ltr Ecotec in the Cobalt SS. The Cobalt is rated at 205hp, but I have seen dyno's with them putting down over 210 at the wheels.
I like that boosted ecotec too, and am anxious to see whether GM tries their luck at a boosted version of this 2.4L (since the 2.0L is a version of the base Cobalt 2.2L). We are hoping to see one with power in the 240-250 range!
 

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$3,500 bolt on turbo system for an additional 85 horsepower anyone? ;)

GM also sells a 2.2 L beefed up racing block and a ported a polished head.
 

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Turbo kit on a 10.6:1 compression ratio engine? Good idea, but no thanks, I'd rather wait for one from the factory, with a lower CR, and (hopefully) beefed up internals. High CR and boost don't mix real well. Sure, you can get it to work, but only lower boost levels conpared to a lower CR car that can run higher boost.

I used to hang out on the f-body mailing list in the mid & late 1990s. Guys putting centrifugal superchargers on otherwise stock LT1s (approx 10.4:1 CR) were running into all kinds of problems above 8psi. If I recall, and it's been a few years, 6psi was pretty safe, but above that you were asking for trouble, even with adjusting ignition timing, etc. There were a lot of horror stories of cracked ring lands, etc. After rebuilding with lower compression, typically 9.5:1 or lower, 12psi was no problem. (Don't forget that the LT1 uses reverse flow cooling, so the heads run cooler than earlier V8 engines, so it's generally more forgiving of high cylinder pressures already.)

It's going to be hell waiting for it, though, while you guys are out there driving around in your new cars, with the top down, the sun shining, the birds singing, getting glances from admiring members of the opposite sex, etc. :)
 

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WaitingForBoost said:
Turbo kit on a 10.6:1 compression ratio engine? Good idea, but no thanks, I'd rather wait for one from the factory, with a lower CR, and (hopefully) beefed up internals. High CR and boost don't mix real well. Sure, you can get it to work, but only lower boost levels conpared to a lower CR car that can run higher boost.

I used to hang out on the f-body mailing list in the mid & late 1990s. Guys putting centrifugal superchargers on otherwise stock LT1s (approx 10.4:1 CR) were running into all kinds of problems above 8psi. If I recall, and it's been a few years, 6psi was pretty safe, but above that you were asking for trouble, even with adjusting ignition timing, etc. There were a lot of horror stories of cracked ring lands, etc. After rebuilding with lower compression, typically 9.5:1 or lower, 12psi was no problem. (Don't forget that the LT1 uses reverse flow cooling, so the heads run cooler than earlier V8 engines, so it's generally more forgiving of high cylinder pressures already.)

It's going to be hell waiting for it, though, while you guys are out there driving around in your new cars, with the top down, the sun shining, the birds singing, getting glances from admiring members of the opposite sex, etc. :)
running up to 8psi expecting 50% more power is probably doable. There are under piston oil squirters on this motor, so I think with a good size IC, and plenty of fuel, you can make good power even at low boost. You're gunna squeeze the motor either way. If you use lower CR pistons, you have to run more air to make the same hp as the higher cr pistons at lower boost levels. nothings perfect...just boost it!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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