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Discussion Starter #22

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Neither side had a plastic tab. I'm thinking that may have been a "running change" to address the problem....
...Strange
Ahhh so you have the infamous type 1 top. Perhaps they did not have the clips.
Rehash from 2007. Nothing new here. The tab history was discussed in detail years ago. Many 06's had them, Many 07's did not. 08 did. It's all in this thread.
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f12/top-ripping-pinching-fix-38004/
 

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Discussion Starter #24

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So, should a Plan A top owner worry about impending failure, or is the plastic tab the issue, and only on Plan B tops?
Having a 1st 1000, I have a Plan A top, and have never had any top issues whatsoever.

Plan B also had other changes with respect to the header on the windshield, and maybe a few other things. It was a long time ago, and I never paid much attention to it back then, as I haven't really had anything wrong with the top.

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So, should a Plan A top owner worry about impending failure, or is the plastic tab the issue, and only on Plan B tops?
I would keep an eye on it when you're putting the top up or down. The "A" would tend to have the rubber wear away and possibly catching/cutting into the fabric. The "B" could possibly have the plastic tab break off.

Or, if we do get a successful alternative in place, you may want to implement just to be on the safe side.
 

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I've had pinching of the top happen only a few times before on the passenger side, but I corrected it by lowering it again and lifting from the passenger side. I did check the tabs and they do seem to be intact. Why is it that sometimes when I lift the top it also doesn't align? I have to lower and raise it a few times before it 'lands' into the appropriate position..
 

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Discussion Starter #30
NEW DESIGN CONVERTIBLE TOP WEATHERSTRIP
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 06-08-67-009A, Date of Issue: October 24, 2006
Affected
Model(s): 2006-2007 Pontiac Solstice; 2007 Saturn SKY
Supercedes:
This bulletin is being revised to update the information and add the 2007 model year
for the Solstice. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-67-009 (Section 08 -
Body and Accessories).
SERVICE INFORMATION
On late built 2006 Solstice and early built 2007 SKY models, the convertible top and all of the
convertible top weatherstrips, including the windshield weatherstrip and quarter panel muckets,
were redesigned. The easiest way to distinguish between Plan-A and Plan-B designed weatherstrip
is to open the top and from the front of the vehicle look at the number one weatherstrip on the
convertible top (refer to illustration).

Fig 2: Plan-A Or Plan-B Designed Convertible Top
Courtesy of

In the event that any of the convertible top or windshield weatherstrips needs to be replaced refer
to the illustration above to identify if the customer has a Plan-A or Plan-B designed convertible top,
since the weatherstrips are not interchangeable. All convertible tops built on or after VIN 6Y118652
(Pontiac) and 7Y103259 (Saturn), will require Plan-B designed weatherstrips
IMPORTANT: There are some vehicles built
Fig 2: Plan-A Or Plan-B Designed Convertible Top
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
prior to the above VIN breakpoints that were built
with a Plan-B top and weatherstrips. Always
check which weatherstrip the car is equipped with
before attempting any repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
After a lot of poking around it appears that the Plan A tops did not come with the plastic clip. And that they had issues with pinching the top when the metal tab wore through the rubber forward covering. As the hinge rotates to closed the exposed metal tab pulls the top into the hinge.

One reference from Small Dealer from GM stated that a "fix" for the Plan A tops is to grind off the leading edge of the metal tab so it does not protrude and grab the top. However they cautioned to NOT use a grindwheel because the metal used will burst into flame and probably burn a hole in the top if not burn the car to the ground. So cut it off and smooth it off without heating it up. Good luck.

The real fix is they changed the design as the Plan B top which has the plastic tab to prevent the metal tab from wearing through the rubber and pinching the top.

Unfortunately the plastic tab can end up getting grabbed by the rubber seal on the top and gets broken off. Like mine did.
Which is why for either top, applying a layer of dielectric grease to the inner surface of the seal and the bottom surface of the top where it comes into contact with the rubber seal is a good idea. It helps preserve the plastic tab so it does not grab and fracture for the Plan B tops and for the Plan A tops it provides a less friction prone mating surface that will wear through the rubber and expose the metal tab which will then pinch the top which will then . . . .

So, based on what I think I might know now, lube your top where it slides at the hinge point and if you have a Plan B top, verify that the plastic tab is tight and properly aligned. For the Plan A top, check to verify that the metal tab is not protruding through the rubber coating on the forward edge yet, and lube the crap out of the area. If it is protruding, CAREFULLY file the exposed metal tab away so it is not dragging on the top and consider adding your own plastic tab. Once we get some built. :thumbs:
 

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I've had pinching of the top happen only a few times before on the passenger side, but I corrected it by lowering it again and lifting from the passenger side. I did check the tabs and they do seem to be intact. Why is it that sometimes when I lift the top it also doesn't align? I have to lower and raise it a few times before it 'lands' into the appropriate position..
The key is to NOT lift on the top to raise it. Gently pull the leading edge of the top forward. The top will raise itself due to the design of the hinges.

Just my idea on the entire subject.

YMMV.

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Discussion Starter #33
I've had pinching of the top happen only a few times before on the passenger side, but I corrected it by lowering it again and lifting from the passenger side. I did check the tabs and they do seem to be intact. Why is it that sometimes when I lift the top it also doesn't align? I have to lower and raise it a few times before it 'lands' into the appropriate position..
Two suggestions. First is put some dielectric grease on the forward edge of the rear side of the hinge and on the bottom side of the top where the forward edge of the rear seal rotates against the bottom side of the top when the hinge rotates to the closed position.

Second is make sure that your top is tensioned correctly. There are two stops in the trunk that set the top tension. The tension needs to be tight enough to make sure the canvas cover is not so lose that it is easily pulled into the hinge point and the tension on both sides needs to be the same so the top is not free to wiggle from side to side as it goes up.

And always make sure the windows are not pressing against the seals when you put the top up or down. Either open the doors or lower them :grouphug:
 

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What type of lube would I use for the hinge point? Wouldn't want anything with the potential to eat away at weather seals or whatever.. *shrug*
 

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The key is to NOT lift on the top to raise it. Gently pull the leading edge of the top forward. The top will raise itself due to the design of the hinges.

Just my idea on the entire subject.

YMMV.

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Hmm I'll keep that in mind for next time, thanks :D
 

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Discussion Starter #36

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:agree:

It's like the ky jelly of the plastics/elastomer world. It works and doesn't have side-effects.
That reads like an inside joke.......:brentil::grouphug::brentil::brentil:
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I always thought the VINS where not built in a perticular order ?
Because of the way they were issued and the mixed production, sol, sky, GT, and the Korean version and the staggered preproduction, and mulit year integration they did not come off the line sequentially, but major design changes were applied in an orderly manner so they could keep track.
 
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