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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car was fine earlier today, but on my most recent trip, it's getting to be near impossible to shift gears. I'm thinking the slave cylinder failed, I had the same symptoms on my 95 SL2 two years ago and replacing the slave cylinder fixed it. What do you think?

Every time I drive the car, something else breaks. I don't know how much longer it'll be around at this point.

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Does your slave cylinder exhibit any of the following symptoms:
1.Abnormal clutch pedal feel?
2. Low or contaminated brake fluid?
3. Leaks on the floor or engine bay?

Also, how many miles does your car have? If you do have a bad slave cylinder you might want to think about replacing the clutch and possibly the flywheel at the same time.

If you do figure it out post up a "I found the problem answer" so that we know how the issue was resolved.
 

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When the slave fails you should see brake fluid under the car and the brake reservoir will be low.

Sorry for your issues. The cars are generally very reliable and once you get your issues fixed you will have years of enjoyment
 

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Check your clutch pedal return spring. If you have a GXP there are two springs, and it is the screen-door style extension spring that would be the problem.

Mine broke and I had the symptoms you describe.

What specifically is happening?

A hydraulic leak will normally give you a normal pedal feel and normal clutch action initially, but it will fade out.
>Push the clutch in and put the car in gear. If you hold the clutch pedal down does the clutch start to engage?
>As was already posted, a leaking slave cylinder will cause low fluid and you will usually see evidence of the leak.
>A leaky master cylinder will not cause fluid loss, but you will experience the clutch engaging while you hold the pedal down.

Low brake/clutch fluid level will affect the clutch first. If the reservoir is low, top it up and see if the problem goes away.
>The clutch hydraulics are self-bleeding.

The broken spring will keep the pedal from fully retracting and then the clutch not fully disengaging.
>The extended pedal position may be in a different place.
>The pedal hits the floor before the clutch fully disengages.
>The action may be irregular, normal some times and bad others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was able to nurse the car back to base in third gear. I put it in the parking garage, so I'll have to walk over later today and look at it. I'm not exactly the most mechanically inclined person, but I can follow instructions. I did notice that when I parked the car for the night, it was able to shift through all the gear easily with the engine on, even though it wouldn't go into any gear 15 minutes prior. I'll go look at it today and report back what I find. Thanks for the help and Happy Thanksgiving!

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Okay so I got to my car and checked it out for a bit. There wasn't a leak from sitting there overnight, none at all. The brake fluid isn't completely topped off, maybe about a centimeter from the top. But I'll be buying some tomorrow. I was able to drive it around perfectly fine with zero problems on the ride back to my barracks (about a mile or so.)

The car has about 44k miles.

Edit: I added more brake fluid and haven't had a problem since, thankfully.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For some reason, the problem is happening again. I haven't noticed any fluid leaks, the brake fluid is still at the same level, and the clutch spring is working fine. I looked into the assembly as I was pressing the pedal with my hand and I could see the spring stretch.

https://vimeo.com/193605958

I'm at my wit's end with this car, I need to be able to drive places and right now that's impossible and I cannot afford to drop the transmission to get the slave cylinder replaced, if that's the issue. I just don't know what to do anymore. These problems shouldn't be happening at 44k miles, the car is hardly even broken in.

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
https://vimeo.com/193607773

What does this mean? It just started happening today, only when the shifter won't shift.

Edit: I tried driving it around some and sometimes when I attempt to shift gears, it makes these ugly noises, and sometimes refuses to go into gear. If I have the car in first gear and start it, it shifts all right for a little bit (maybe 200 ft) and then gets notchy and won't go in.

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Could it be the shifter linkage? You say you can start it in gear so you have to have the clutch dis-engaged or it would try to lunge forward. I mean if you have the pedal pressed in far enough to contact the safety switch allowing the starter to spin. So, if the the slave cylinder had not pressed the pressure plate levers enough to dis-engage the flywheel then the car would try to take off on you. So, maybe the next step is to look at the transmission side of things. I'm not sure how these go together but here's a pic.


is the shifter loose? Since it's intermittent maybe something is popping back into place and you're not realizing it. Synchros also come to mind

Hopefully someone will come along that has been inside one of these trans.
 

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Clutch or synchros in the transmission I would guess. More apt to believe clutch. Niether are cheap to replace....about $1800 for the clutch to have a dealer do it. Quuite a bit more for a transmission. But, I wouldn't think it's the transmission already unless the PO just completely beat the snot out of the car!! Normal clutch on these cars lasts about 50k depending on driving....I have 80k on mine, but I don't slip it at all....and I've learned to shift without the clutch from 1 thru 4... So if I'm in a 20mph traffic jam, I don't use the clutch at all...up or down shifting.

Or....and this is what I hope is wrong....you just have really bad brake fluid. You might have a lot of dirt and water in the fluid and when it heats up, there is no pressure in the system to move the clutch.

Even if it is your slave cylinder, the transmission still has to be dropped and as long as they're in there, I'd replace the clutch. IMSMC parts for the OE clutch are about $300. To do the slave your still going to have the the 11hrs (warranty is 6.6hrs) to remove the transmission to do the slave cylinder... II just looked and list on parts is $260.92 for the clutch kit and bearing....

Here's a breakdown: (~ is about)

Clutch
~11 hours (warr. is 6.6hrs) - ~$1500.00
Parts
Clutch kit with bearing is listed at $260.92
Slave cylinder list price is $165.44

Just to do slave is ~9.5 hrs. (warr is 5.4hrs) and would be ~$950.00

All shops use Mitchell's or Aldata and it's a 60 some odd % markup from warranty for the job. I've given you the ammo you need to go to the dealer now. I would not let a dealer tell you more then 10 hours to do the clutch!!! Now the other thing that will vary is the price on parts. What I gave you is 'list'. Many dealers use a matrix mark-up...and that isn't set in stone. It will vary from dealer to dealer. If you need any other info, let me know!! Sent you a PM with my email address.
 

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Just a thought that maybe the Experts can comment on: Should the brake fluid be flushed and replaced as a start to resolve the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm honestly starting to think it's the shift cables/linkages (if the Solstice has them??) because I'm able to get it in gear now if I mess around with it a little. Fifth and reverse still won't work unless the car is off. Does anyone know how to adjust the cables?

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I truly believe it's your clutch. Does the clutch go to the floor like before? No added pressure? Reason I ask is that I had a Fiero and the clutch went out on my 10 miles from home. I could move it to other gears, but couldn't get it back to 1st at a stop. I would have to shut the car off, put it in 1st, start it and take off. The clutch worked just enough to make it possible to shift. By the time I got home there was no clutch left. I could only push it in about 2". It felt like the clutch pedal actually locked. When they tore it apart, they said they had never seen a clutch so bad.

But....you can always try to adjust the linkages first. It's cheaper then a clutch!!!

EDIT: On a side note, my Fiero had no warning the clutch was going. I went to play golf and everything seemed fine, then when I came back I started the car and noticed the pedal felt a touch odd. Pulled out of the parking lot and the first stop I got to, I couldn't get it in first with the engine running. What I'm getting at, is your original statement..."everything was fine this morning". For some reason that's what happened to my Fiero....everything was fine when I left it and when I came back 5 hours later, the clutch felt odd.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
>A leaky master cylinder will not cause fluid loss, but you will experience the clutch engaging while you hold the pedal down.
I took another look at my car and this thread and I'm experiencing this. I'm going to replace the master cylinder sometime this week, hopefully today, and see what happens. I have hope!


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OK brilliant minds of the forum, I've got a question on this topic.

I was installing the DDM Venom Brace and got under the car to tighten down the last bolt. Lo and behold, I notice that the transmission cover is wet, and that there is a very small amount of fluid under the car (this would be since parking it last Thursday).

The car is an 07 with 50k miles. I took it out and drove it and the clutch seemed fine. The master cylinder is also full, although it looks like it needs a flush.

Does anyone have any bright ideas as to what is wrong here?

Thanks!

BTW the brace seems great; I can't wait to get the tunnel and rear braces installed!
 

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Ah! Good thinking - I just changed it last week and yes, I managed to drip some oil all over the place (OOPS) when I pulled the filter....
 

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So, having looked more closely today, I don't think that is it. There's no visible oil on the firewall - just underneath. I guess I'll wait until I do a brake flush and see if fresh fluid starts seeping out? Stumped.
 

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What is the fluid? Everything used in the car is relatively distinctive and you should be able to tell brake fluid from engine oil.
 
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