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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to go pick up the gf from work, and let the car run through its usual cat warm-up, and left when the coolant hit about 130ish. On the way back, I noticed the coolant was up about 219/220, and it continued to climb, but the time I pulled into the parking garage, I could hear both fans running full, and the temp wasn't dropping. I let the car sit for a few moments and it seemed to sit right around 227, neither going up or down.

I didn't want to risk anything so I shut it off, and the fans continued running. I popped the hood, and the upper radiator hose was cold to the touch, and empty.

Not good? (Just had the water pump replaced around thanksgiving)

Only 43k on the clock, 2008. I've never had this many issues with a car at such low mileage.
 

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This happened to me the other day...

Must have stuck shut on mine, cause its all good now.
 

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Air in system. If no water on the floor.
Add water and purge.
LLLFLY
 

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Hmm, if it's holding steady at those temps it leads me to believe the t-stat could be going. When I changed my t-stat and was in the process of bleeding the air out, my coolant temps would fluctuate from 210 to 240, at which point the t-stat would open and temps would quickly return to 210 only to build up again. Your upper radiator hose probably isn't empty, but it's cool to the touch because your t-stat is shut. How are the levels in your overflow tank?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's possible the fans were holding it in check. I may add a check valve and take a look. Dealer said system was bled when the did the water bump, and the surge tank is filled about a 1/4" over the max fill hot line, so it has more than enough coolant. I'll try burping it as it warms up this morning and see what that does.

I found the tstat last night, and it's towards the back if the motor, so I think that find of rules out the top hose being an indicator of the tstat no?
 

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It's possible the fans were holding it in check. I may add a check valve and take a look. Dealer said system was bled when the did the water bump, and the surge tank is filled about a 1/4" over the max fill hot line, so it has more than enough coolant. I'll try burping it as it warms up this morning and see what that does.

I found the tstat last night, and it's towards the back if the motor, so I think that find of rules out the top hose being an indicator of the tstat no?
Yep, she's up tight against the firewall. If you need to remove it, you have to take that entire plastic shroud off, including the wiper arms, and you'll need extentions and swivels. :lol:

As far as the cooling system goes, it was my understanding that when the t-stat is closed, it is preventing coolant from flowing through the cooling package, so the water pump just recirculates the coolant in the engine and heater core. Thus, when the t-stat is closed the top hose shouldn't be pressurized.
 

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when my t-stat went south, it lit the radiator light and dinged. if yours did not throw a code then you either do not have the system full and or air in the line. Especially since your recent water pump change. If you have an air compressor and a blow gun you can fix this in 5 minutes. There's several posts but just real quick, remove the green clamp on the re-flow tube ( bottor right side of tank ) and pull the hose off. next, shoot air into the tank with the cap on, few small bursts. put the hose in an empty water bottle before hand to catch the coolant that will come out. repeat this a few times till the fluid flows smooth out the tube. be sure and not to let the tank get empty. My tank was full and when I did this it ended up being about a quart low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Talked to my good friend John Powell, and decided that the dealer didn't properly bleed the cooling system. Ordered up the stock of check valves Tom @ CED had left, and will be putting two of them in when they arrive. Should solve the bleeding problem.

In the meantime, drove the car a bit today, and the bubble seems to be gone for now. Had no strange temperature fluctuations.
 
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