For further clarity, the conductor is actually frangible conductive paint glued and sandwiched between the two layers of mylar-like material. As soon as you try to open up the outer layers, the conductive paint trace just falls - or gets pulled - apart.
For further clarity, the conductor is actually frangible conductive paint glued and sandwiched between the two layers of mylar-like material. As soon as you try to open up the outer layers, the conductive paint trace just falls - or gets pulled - apart.
Soup is right. If you try to separate the mylar film, you just make things worse. I don't have pictures but I can try to describe how I have fixed similar breaks. I drilled several tiny holes through the mylar and conductive paint on both sides of the break. then threaded stranded copper wire up and down through the holes to electrically connect the break. I guess you could compare it to sewing the break back together. I then filled the drilled holes with the wire in them with flexible conductive paint. Lastly, I glued new mylar on both top and bottom of the existing mylar to hold everything together. I haven't tried our seat bottom but this has worked for me on similar breaks.
Yep that might well work. There'd have to be a certain amount of luck involved to make the connection with the track, of course
The break in the circuit happens at an area that gets a lot of stress and flex, so that repair method would almost certainly fail quickly. The best chance of success, I think, would be to place the "stitching" as far away from the break as possible in each direction, and connect the two areas with lengths of stranded wire.Yep that might well work. There'd have to be a certain amount of luck involved to make the connection with the track, of course
Unfortunately I cut my bad mat up to send pieces to chickenwire to look at what plastic is was, so I cannot test the idea myself. But I'm prepared to believe!
That is exactly what I had in mind for the seat. It has worked for me in other situations. one printer I fixed like that where the flat ribbon had to roll back and forth with the print head. worked well, still working. Of course the seat would require more reinforcing, hence the addition of flexible mylar on the top and bottom of the repaired loop in the ribbon. Drip loops, or expansion joints like that U shape in the seat work well for round conduit or tubing but are pretty much useless for a flat ribbon. It is not the conductor that fails but the flat ribbon that cannot flex in the direction it was designed for. Also, I mixed my own adhesive from flexible contact cement and silver powder used in heat sinks. I first tried the paint used to repair window defrosters but found that it wouldn't flex with the ribbon and the fix wouldn't last in areas where the ribbon had to move or was sublect to vibration.
Yes, the mat can be removed from the cushion without damaging it.
The mat IS glued to the seat cushion foam. If you are careful you could probably separate it without damaging it, but it will not just lift off.
I don't know of anyone who has installed an aftermarket seat that isn't a minimalist racing bucket. Fitting a seat into the available space is a severe challenge..
There was a guy, Kenny S, who swapped his seats for buckets. Im pretty sure he swapped the mat too, but can't be certain. I believe he sold his car, so not active on the forums any more. Sorry.
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