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Discussion Starter · #3,523 ·
Finished fine tuning the the new CF steering wheel. Hopefully it is not aligned properly. Will know this weekend when I swap the cars in the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,524 ·
Strobe came over and installed cowl mounted plugs for the battery tenders. We installed two on board battery tenders and have a 112V AC cable that allows me to put the batteries on the tender anywhere. the show battery is still connected to an external tender but that too will be addressed
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,525 ·
I liked the new C6 CF steering wheel for the PunisheR so much, I have ordered one in GREEN for the Dragon! Just dont tell the wife. And I "may" have ordered a HF cat and bright green charge tubes as well. To go along with the wheel lights. And the green strobes. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,526 · (Edited)
OK, Strobe came over and volunteered to swap out the factory charge tubes for the GREEN powder coated tubes. They are beautiful! It took most of the day, but that involved lots of imbibing, watching Alabama on the boobtoob and not inconsiderable BSing.
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Discussion Starter · #3,527 · (Edited)
While Strobe was swapping the charge tubes on the Dragon. I was installing more LED wheel lights. After putting on the new BRIGHT wheel lights on the Dragon, I decided "Why not?" So I figured out a way to mount a SECOND set of wheel lights on the existing set. And of course they are on different controllers so I can change the color, rate and cycles. LOL its like WOW

I got two right side ones done, need to install the other side tomorrow .
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Discussion Starter · #3,528 ·

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Discussion Starter · #3,529 ·
KG
Found the documentation for the radiator. It’s a dual pass design. Not three row
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP
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Your radiator?

It's easy to know if it is a dual pass or a triple pass. If the upper and lower connections are on the same side then the radiator is a dual pass. if they are on opposite sides then it is a triple pass. I am pretty sure it's not a single pass which would have hose connections on opposite sides like the triple pass.

The number of rows is hard to tell because you would have to look in between the fins to see the number of tubes stacked front to back on the radiator..

Automotive radiator part Output device Rectangle Gas Home appliance


Output device Rectangle Office equipment Font Gas



If you sectioned the radiator from top to bottom this is what a 2 row and a 3 row would look like.

Rectangle Line Font Technology Gas


a 2 row and a 3 row radiator can be the same thickness which means the 3 row radiator is a gimmick and will actually offer less cooling capacity then a 2 row that has larger tube widths.
as in the example seen in the picture above.

2 tubes @ 1" wide = 2"
3 tubes @ 5/8" = 1 7/8"

The 3 row radiator will have an overall thickness that is just a hair over the 2 row and that is because of the space between the tubes.

I want to say that the largest tube width that is available is 1.5". A good radiator is going to have a tube width of 1" or more.


This is the radiator I went with.


This one would fit as well.


My Car at an idle with the EWP controller set to 194 maintains that temperature without the fan ever turning on. IDK how low I am able to set the EWP to where it would not be able to maintain the temp at using just the radiator and not the fan at all. at the 194 the EWP turns on at 50% speed for 10 seconds and then turns off for 10 seconds. I am going to mess with the temp setting on the EWP when I solve the whistle problem I am having under boost. Then I will get it under a load and see how it performs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,531 ·
The Ls is designed to run between 200 and 230. The C6 fans don't come on until 228. C6s consistently run at 230 and up on the track.

I took the car out for a run a couple of days ago. On a 50 degree day, it was running 185 indicated. This was running against the thermostat. Even when making high power runs it never got over 200.

I am of the opinion that it is running the way it is supposed to run and that everything is fine.

Thanks for the information. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,532 ·
Pulled the front end off the car again. Working on fine tuning the alignment of the hood, fenders and the bumper cover. Every time I do this I learn more. After a lot of fiddling, I am happy with the result. Its gapped much better. Pics to come.
It takes some time learning to live with a custom after market hood. :cool:
 

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what you are forgetting tho is that at 6000 feet elevation an overheat on a vehicle is not going to be at 263 but instead will be closer to 240/245 ish. water boils at a lower temperature at high altitude. So you loose that window. I a,m also seeing LS engines run in the same range as most engines 195 to 220. an LS engine typically has a 195 thermostat and the fans will turn on at around 200 to 205. If the cooling system is operating properly the engine should be able to maintain close to what the thermostat opening temp is when cruising down the interstate and slightly above (due to the fan turn on temp) at idle. while 220 is not crazy to see 230 on the other hand is not good to have happen at idle or cruising speed as it indicates an issue with the vehicles cooling system especially when you are at high altitude.

You have to look at it this way.. at altitude say the temperature at which the coolant starts to boil is 242°. that is what is considered an overheat. at sea level that temperature is going to be 262°
if your engine temps gets to 230° on a regular basis you are operating the cooling system at 95%. 230 / 242 * 100 = 95.04. Now apply that to the sea level temp. 262 * (95.04 / 100) = and you get 249°. Would it be wise to operate the engine at 249° if you were at sea level? I wouldn't think it would be, it would definitely not be in the realm of "normal" that's for sure. so if the normal operating temp at sea level tops out at 230 which is what you stated. That means the operating capacity of the cooling system is at 87.77%. now apply that to the high altitude boiling temp of 242 and you get 212°. That would give you a buffer of 12.23% which I have to say isn't a whole hell of a lot of buffer to work with. Ideally if possible at altitude you want the vehicle to be at or below 200° for a normal operating temperature, or as close as you can get to it. I know that LS swaps have a set of challenges to overcome in order to do this because a lot of the time the motors and packed into spaces that are simply not large enough to allow for proper cooling. This is why it is really important to make sure the cooling system is the best that can be gotten with the available space.

coolant flow is the name of the game. The more there is the better. In order to get the flow up high enough it may involve things like porting the water pump and removing the thermostat entirely. or adding an electric booster pump to help with flow issues at idle. Shortest hose routing is not always the best especially if super tight radius bends end up being used. So if you have to make an S bend that has tight turns that ends up being the same as adding at least 20' of hose, sometimes a lot more than that if the hose ends up with a slight kink in it. not abnormal to see the flow restriction in a bend like that being equal to 30' of additional hose. You could route the hose all the way around the engine in order to get a better angle so there is no tight radius bend and you would be well under 30' and also under 20'.

There are water pumps that are made that offer ultra high flow. in the realm of 140gpm at 6000 RPM instead of the factory 70gpm. they are not cheap at 400.00 for a water pump but it is cheaper than replacing a motor.

My concern is not so much the high temps as a "global" number. My concern is that high temp reading coupled with the low flow and ending up with hot spots where the coolant flow is not adequate to cool specific areas of the engine and the coolant temp starting point being high and that is going to cause uneven expanding and contraction of the metal. The end result is warping of the block and or the head. This is typically seen between the cylinders.

You had said that you were going to make some changes to the cooling system, did you ever do that? what changes did you make?? If your car is able to hold 200° at idle in 50° ambient temps? Is that with both fans running at full tilt? If it is then that is not going to be good. 40° higher ambient temps which would be 90° you are going to see engine temps in the 230 area. 90° ambient is the norm during summer in Colorado.

You should be running a 185 thermostat in your car possibly even lower than that. I am not sure what you have in it. You might consider putting a lower rated one in. Your fans should be set to come on about 10° higher than the thermostat rating. so if your thermostat is rated for 185 the fans should click on at 195. When your fans are on the engine temperatures should stop going up and hold temperature with high ambient temps and in cool weather the temps should drop to the point where the fans turn off. The fans turn off temp should be 5° to 7° lower than the turn on temp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,535 ·
OK Major project this weekend. Realign the front bumper, repair broken tabs on the bumper and mounts and repair the cracked and broken inner fender.

This is a great how to video.
(10) TECH TIPS: Backside Bumper Repair Simplified - YouTube

This is the patch used on the inside of the inner fender to repair cracks and broken tabs. Some tabs were replaced with this material, some were reinforced. Very easy to use and effective

If you want to add fill to the patch or cosmetically clean up the inside of the inner fender then you can use this product

AmazonSmile: 3M EZ Sand Multi Purpose Repair Material, 05887, Ready-To-Use, Two-Part Epoxy Finishing Adhesive, 200 mL/6.75 fl oz Cartridge : Automotive

The right side inner fender on Punisher had broken and missing mounting points, cracked mounting points, a large crack where "someone" was leaning into the engine bay and put so much pressure on the fender it developed a crack about 6 inches long.
There were also several areas where the mounting points were missing and had to be replaced.


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Discussion Starter · #3,536 ·
Repairs
The black shiny material in the picture is 3M 05887. This is a two-part heavy-duty repair adhesive and filler. It sets in about 30 seconds! We used this as a filler and to repair areas where a flat patch did not cover the entire area. For example, in the picture below the corner of the mounting hole was separated from the inner fender and its at an acute angle. The patch fit along the flat portion of the separation but did not address the vertical area. So we mixed up some 05887 and while it was still flexible, we covered the tear on both sides. It is there now permanently. 05887 can be a pain to work with but it really does the job if you plan your moves before applying it.

There are several places in the later pictures where the entire edge of the inner fender was missing. We applied the 05888 patch on the back side to bridge the missing section, then cut another filler piece for the inside to complete the repair

AmazonSmile: 3M Flexible Bumper Patch Kit, 05888, Black, 4 in x 8 in : Automotive

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Discussion Starter · #3,537 ·
The bottom line is that the 3m products are excellent at repairing the inner fender and the areas where the repair is done are stronger than the fender was from the factory. I am going to reinforce all the mounting points on the left side fender and also reinforce the areas where cracks can develop when leaning into the engine bay. This will make that inner fender better than new and should last as long as I have the car. :)
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Discussion Starter · #3,538 ·
As an aside, I found that when the hood gap was minimized, the headlights were hitting the bumper cover and forcing it out of alignment. I ended up fine tuning this gap so the headlights have sufficient clearance and the gaps are still acceptable. It was several hours of fun.
 

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Interesting work with a material i hadnt seen before Rob.
How long to cure until this stuff is sandable?
 

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As an aside, I found that when the hood gap was minimized, the headlights were hitting the bumper cover and forcing it out of alignment. I ended up fine tuning this gap so the headlights have sufficient clearance and the gaps are still acceptable. It was several hours of fun.
Do you think all the cracking is the result of the torque flex you generate, or the much under hood activity that you carry out on your special Solstice, or just age related. Are those factory fender liners.
 
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