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The engineers at the plant tour said to close it by pressing down on the hump above the front edge bracket. I've been doing that for over a year with not issues. He said not to close it via the buttress chrome piece because over time you will cause that edge to start bending down.

For those of you that close it that way, look at the alignment of both sides before you push down the buttress into the chrome and you will see that one side is lower than the other.
 

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The engineers at the plant tour said to close it by pressing down on the hump above the front edge bracket. I've been doing that for over a year with not issues. He said not to close it via the buttress chrome piece because over time you will cause that edge to start bending down.

For those of you that close it that way, look at the alignment of both sides before you push down the buttress into the chrome and you will see that one side is lower than the other.
Hey deepbluegxp, can you explain better what when you say "the hump above the front edge bracket"? I've been doing the chrome buttress pin method and would like to learn the way you described, thanks.
 

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To take a different bend on this thread (pun intended), when I got my car back from the dealership after they replaced the top I was attempting to close the trunk and it just kept bouncing up. After several attempts (not very smart:( ) I finally noticed that a rubber bumper on the underside of trunk lid (there is one on each side of the lid) that apparently helps position the top in the trunk, had fallen off into the drain channels and was keeping the lid from shutting all of the way. Of course my efforts to close it forcefully resulted in a slightly warped trunk lid (larger gap on the passenger side rear lights than on the driver's side). I glued the rubber piece back on with gorilla glue but just recent had to reglue it. It is easy to bump off if working in the trunk.
 

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Hey deepbluegxp, can you explain better what when you say "the hump above the front edge bracket"? I've been doing the chrome buttress pin method and would like to learn the way you described, thanks.
With the trunk open, you can see the front brace I have an arrow pointing to. Above that brace 1 inch back on the humps is where you should be pushing to close the trunk.

 

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So, the dealership teaches me to close the trunk from the center and to the front - ultratight when brand-new.

I forgot and slammed it from one side, using the driver's side nacelle (the Mayan Temple) and my palm put a ding in the darned thing! My car is Mean yellow, so it really shows up.

I wish that sucker was carbon fiber, so it would be dingproof. That really bummed me out! I love the Sol's light weight, but I've got cans from Libby's that are thicker than the skin on my Sol!

Haha! But you can't pry me out of this car.... Fun, fun, fun!
Hi Charley,
I know it's been a while, but I have the exact same problem (and color). Did you get it worked out at a Paintless dent removal place? How does it look? Thanks
 

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Hey guys, I did the same thing on my 'hump' last year! Went to a paintless dent guy who worked miracles, it totally disappeared! Since then I close mine from the very center where the latch is and making sure not to still be pushing when it makes contact with the latch. The method with opening the small trap door to allow air out is an excellent idea!

Actually the very best fool proof way that I practice now, never even look at the top, its stored and never comes out, problem solved! lol....
 

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I've never closed mine with a hand pushing down anywhere-get within 12" or so from closing and give it a fling-have it by the protected area under the buttresses and let 'er fly. Closes every time. (Just remember to let go on the down swing :D)
Aspenrose....soon to be known as Ninefingerrose.:lol:
 

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My car was delivered with a dent on the hump from closing the lid by the make ready guys. They had their paintless dent removal guy attack it, and you absolutely can not find it anymore. Amazing, really.

My Solstice trunk closed easily, but my Skys is a BEAR. You have to **SLAM** it. That is, until a forum member told me to try the "lift the silver flap" method mentioned earlier in this thread. I'll be dang. That solved it. It now shuts SOOOOO much easier.
 

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I did the same thing to my first Solstice. Most dealers have someone come into their used car lot once a week or so that will do the paintless dent repair. I went to the local dealer, not even where I bought the car, and he did a great job pulling it out. I think it cost me $50 but taught me a lesson and I never push on the humps. Good Luck!
 

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Holy cow. Never heard of that. You know that makes me want to go put a big dent in my car just so I can try it! Well, maybe not.

I'm assuming on that van, the dent was in the plastic cover? Would it really pull a dent that big out of metal???
 

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Been closing my trunk from the chrome ring since day 1 and have had no problems at all.

The trunk has also not been aligned correctly since day 1 and when I did take it in to fix they had it for 2 days and when i got it back, it was misaligned on the other side lol so oh well.
 

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Seems this has been mentioned before, but the lid can be closed with the pressure placed over the transverse reinforcing rib below the forward edge of the lid...that beam thing. Works for me.
 

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I'm grateful to whoever first discovered that oysters are edible, AND to whoever discovered the benefit of opening the little spring-loaded hatch when closing the trunk.
 

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Dent on rear hump

I too have a dent in mine now also,from closing the trunk.I can't believe how thin it is.I am one pissed off dude.........:cuss:
 

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BTW - anybody have any experience with those "paintless dent removal" places?
My new Cadillac CTS got caught in a horrible hail storm in west Texas last summer. Being a picky sort, i insisted it be repaired at the Cadillac dealer where I bought the car. They bring in paintless dent removal guys when appropriate. The bill said over $5000 of the $8500 repair bill went to them. The results are great and have remained so for over 9 months, so I guess they did their job. I would definitely recommend a qualified paintles repair guy.
 
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