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I love the Sol's light weight
:confused:

Either you are kidding, or a ton and a half is what is called light weight these days.

These 'light weight. cars weigh 400 lbs. more than the original spec Mustang and just a bag of groceries less than a 1960s Z28 Camaro.
 

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:confused:

Either you are kidding, or a ton and a half is what is called light weight these days.

These 'light weight. cars weigh 400 lbs. more than the original spec Mustang and just a bag of groceries less than a 1960s Z28 Camaro.
Yes, you're right. But to be fair, would either of those cars - or more specifically, you as the driver - fared anywhere near as well as the Solstice below? There's a reason cars are heavier now...

 

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Yes, you're right. But to be fair, would either of those cars - or more specifically, you as the driver - fared anywhere near as well as the Solstice below? There's a reason cars are heavier now...
Heavier is a given due to exactly what you mention, but porcine? No, not necessarily.

Both the Miata and the Elise fare as well as the Solstice, have as good or better performance (than the NA, in the case of the Miata) and weigh 3-600 and 900 lbs. lighter, respectively. It can be done if you care to.....

I have to say that the US auto makers have never traditionally cared much about weight, even in order to get the CAFE ratings they need and have resorted to other measures that are all but useless to owners, like gearboxes with special ratios that give excellent mileage cruising but would rarely be used by anyone in day to day driving, like 0.5:1. (And don't get me started on Computer Aided gearshifting, which won't allow you to shift into certain gears at certain throttle openings!)
 

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Have you ever seen the length of some of the bolts on a Solstice? simply grinding off the excess bolt length would probably net you 200 lbs. Plus, the Solstice is considerably larger than the Miata and Lotus.

She may be a heavy gal, but she wears it well.
 

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Hi all! New 2006 owner, as of today!! These flaps, I guess should open either as you lift the trunk or as you lift the top. I've got one the doesn't lift. The cable attached is just slack. I also have to push them down after I lower thetop; is that normal?
(already found the problem with the ball-link being disconnected which caused wind behind the passenger window - thanks already for that!).
Cheers
 

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Go to just about any auto parts store. They sell a $20.00 kit that works just great taking out small dents. This kit just saved me about 500.00.
Thanks for that info. I bought the kit this weekend and popped the three small hump dents that my Sol had, as well as a couple others. Worked GREAT!!! I've also llearned how not to close the trunk! :grin:
 

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Not be picky, but the Mayan Temple is the structure in the trunk, i.e. the gas tank.
The humps are just humps.
I always close mine using the heel of my hand on the chrome ring for the buttress pin.
This seems to be the strongest part of the clam shell lid.

If all you have is a little dimple the dentless boys should be able to fix it, no problem.
Wouldn't it be a good rule of thumb (ha) to give the clamshell a good, calculated push from above, letting it land evenly on its own? Repeat if necessary.
 

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There is a large valve built into the side of the boot to relieve the pressure when closing the lid. you might want to check it and make sure it is opening properly. Its the same valve you can stick your arm through to reach the emergency trunk release.
 

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There is a large valve built into the side of the boot to relieve the pressure when closing the lid. you might want to check it and make sure it is opening properly. Its the same valve you can stick your arm through to reach the emergency trunk release.
Well this is quite the old resurrected thread now isnt it? I believe some one posted about 9-10 yrs ago a proper proceedure to close the rear lid. Going from memory any my M.O. because of that post, I always push down at several points on the ragtop frame first to insure total folded position, after that its just a matter of giving it the proper amount of thrust on the chrome button and let it go. I dont want dents or finger prints so this method has worked everytime for me.
 

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There is a large valve built into the side of the boot to relieve the pressure when closing the lid. you might want to check it and make sure it is opening properly. Its the same valve you can stick your arm through to reach the emergency trunk release.
I have also notice that the two flaps in the tulip panel will briefly pop up when the trunk is closed and the top is stowed, of course, when the top is up, they are both open anyway!
 

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Well this is quite the old resurrected thread now isnt it? I believe some one posted about 9-10 yrs ago a proper proceedure to close the rear lid. Going from memory any my M.O. because of that post, I always push down at several points on the ragtop frame first to insure total folded position, after that its just a matter of giving it the proper amount of thrust on the chrome button and let it go. I dont want dents or finger prints so this method has worked everytime for me.
This is exactly what I do. Compressing the top into the trunk is the single most important thing to make closing the lid easier.
 

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I have also notice that the two flaps in the tulip panel will briefly pop up when the trunk is closed and the top is stowed, of course, when the top is up, they are both open anyway!
I read a long time ago that someone lifted the flaps when closing with the top down to let more air rush out. Made sense to me as the top being in the trunk would restrict how much air can move to the relief flap. I've lifted a flap when closing with the top down ever since!
 

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I read a long time ago that someone lifted the flaps when closing with the top down to let more air rush out. Made sense to me as the top being in the trunk would restrict how much air can move to the relief flap. I've lifted a flap when closing with the top down ever since!
This is exactly what I do. Compressing the top into the trunk is the single most important thing to make closing the lid easier.
I always used to lift the flap when closing, even after pushing the roof down. But when I realised that the roof was rubbing on the carpet sides of the trunk - which stopped it from going down into place easily - and I did the "no roof wear from trunk" mod (mod thread on these forums), the roof settles nicely down without much, if any, pushing and the trunk closes much more easily. YMMV.
 

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My roof doesn't rub, but the mechanism is stiff enough to keep it from collapsing the when I put it down, especially if it has been up for more than a day or two. Seating it always let's the lid close, and I have never lifted the flap.

Different cars, different fit.
 

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My 2006 Solstice has the small rubber pieces which is where I push. Dent removal might not be as good as a repair and repaint. Yellow might be better or worse.
 
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