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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so with all the things I'm planning on doing, which include but are not limited to switching exhaust and installing a ddm backbone. I want to know how I can safely put the car on 4 jack stands. People say lift the front 2 and rear 2 tires at a time but what are the lifting points to do this, as I only know of lifting the sides at a time.
 

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I have been lifting my car like this almost since I got it : I use a low profile jack ,on it I place a 1x 8x 24 piece of hardwood that I use for this purpose .I center the jack in front of the door then push it in about 18 inches ( just make sure the jack handle will not hit the door)if you look under the car there is a frame rail that I center the board on .Make sure that you have the opposite side rear wheel chocked and emergency brake on then lift away .I raise up one side place my stands with the hockey pucks on them under the jack pads and carefully lower the jack then repeat on the other side .The board distributes the weight evenly and with no damage to the underside . Make sure before you do this to look underneath and familiarize yourself with the underside as I said earlier I have been doing this for years with no damage to my car just be careful and take your time.
 

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I would like to know how these people are lifting all 4 tires at the same time as well. Never seen that done before. I lift just in front of the rear tire which will lift the whole side. Once the front tire is high enough, I place a jack stand under the transport tie down slot. I don't place the stands farther under the car where the manual says. That piece of metal is too thin for my taste and others have had this metal piece deform. The when the other side is done I move to the back and lift up on the pumpkin and place stands just in fmront of the rear tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sting Ya, if I understand correctly, you use a wood plank that would raise an entire side, place the jack stands, then raise the other side using the same method? So instead of Front/Rear, you do Side/Side? To me this seems easier, it's why I'm interested in finding out :D
 

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The only points under the car that are stressed for lifting are the four frame slots used for ocean shipment tie down and the two front pads just inside the front slots.

Some have used the differential to lift but I do not.

I use a low height floor jack aligned with the forward frame slot. Use a hockey puck to cushion the loads and as a spacer to protect the bottom of the front fender. Jacking from the forward slot will raise both wheels equally. When I get the car up, I place a jack stand under the rear frame slot and in align with the front jacking pad. Use hockey pucks for the stands. Lower the side of the car onto the two stands. Move the jack to the other side, forward frame slot, lift as with the first side. Then place the stands in the same location, the rear frame slot and the forward jacking pad. It will be very stable in this position and chances of damaging the structure are minimized.

I have used this method for six years on many, many occasions.
 

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The only points under the car that are stressed for lifting are the four frame slots used for ocean shipment tie down and the two front pads just inside the front slots.

Some have used the differential to lift but I do not.

I use a low height floor jack aligned with the forward frame slot. Use a hockey puck to cushion the loads and as a spacer to protect the bottom of the front fender. Jacking from the forward slot will raise both wheels equally. When I get the car up, I place a jack stand under the rear frame slot and in align with the front jacking pad. Use hockey pucks for the stands. Lower the side of the car onto the two stands. Move the jack to the other side, forward frame slot, lift as with the first side. Then place the stands in the same location, the rear frame slot and the forward jacking pad. It will be very stable in this position and chances of damaging the structure are minimized.

I have used this method for six years on many, many occasions.
That's essentially what I do, but my jacking pads (where the stands go) are now mangled. They've collapsed around the stands.
 

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I have the same problem. I used to lift by the jacking pads as did the various techs who worked on the car. Which is why I now lift only by the frame slots.

Also, DDM is working on shoes - steel plates that will reinforce the jacking pads. He had a prototype a couple of months ago... Hopefully soon.
 

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Sting Ya, if I understand correctly, you use a wood plank that would raise an entire side, place the jack stands, then raise the other side using the same method? So instead of Front/Rear, you do Side/Side? To me this seems easier, it's why I'm interested in finding out :D
Yes and I forgot to add that a if you go to a DIY store and by a stair step either for a deck or porch step it works out pretty good and I have gone as far as 36" in length
 

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Solo Mach GXP system came in today

Yes and I forgot to add that a if you go to a DIY store and by a stair step either for a deck or porch step it works out pretty good and I have gone as far as 36" in length
I never cease to be amazed by how much valuable information there is available on this forum. My Solo dual exhaust system came in today and I will be installing it in the next few weeks (right after emissions testing).

Everything you need to know about installing it is on this forum, including options on how to lift the car how to adjust exhaust for clearence, ect. I would not want to own this car without this forum.
 

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My Solo dual exhaust system came in today and I will be installing it in the next few weeks (right after emissions testing).
I asked Solo about this myself and was told that their exhaust systems pass emissions, so you shouldn't have to wait, but my area doesn't require emissions testing so I haven't tested that statement yet. :)
 

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Just lack of time and wanting to know pitfalls

I asked Solo about this myself and was told that their exhaust systems pass emissions)
The only thing holding me back from the install is a lack of time and wanting to be sure I understood all the pitfalls. I have been reading and rereading the posts on the exhaust system removal, jacking of car, problems encountered. I wasn't really worried about Solo emissions as they have a fine product and a fine reputation. Sorry for misunderstanding. The car passed emissions so this is now a lame excuse!

The last thing on the worry list is removal of the old factory exhaust. I've encountered other cars that this was not possible to do with jack stands, it required a lift. It appears from the relevant posts that many people have been successful only using jackstands. Since the new Solo exhaust comes in sections I don't anticipate installing the new Solo system is a problem.

Does anyone know if it will come out in one piece, using jackstands, or will I need to get the hacksaw out and cut it off?
 

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The only thing holding me back from the install is a lack of time and wanting to be sure I understood all the pitfalls. I have been reading and rereading the posts on the exhaust system removal, jacking of car, problems encountered. I wasn't really worried about Solo emissions as they have a fine product and a fine reputation. Sorry for misunderstanding. The car passed emissions so this is now a lame excuse!

The last thing on the worry list is removal of the old factory exhaust. I've encountered other cars that this was not possible to do with jack stands, it required a lift. It appears from the relevant posts that many people have been successful only using jackstands. Since the new Solo exhaust comes in sections I don't anticipate installing the new Solo system is a problem.

Does anyone know if it will come out in one piece, using jackstands, or will I need to get the hacksaw out and cut it off?
If its any help, we have done several cars while on stands. In fact, it can be a bit easier because the most challenging part of the process is getting the exhaust seal off the end of the cat so you can put the new one that comes with the Solo exhaust installed. The last one we did involved considerable action with a hammer and a drift pin to get it off. Not a huge problem but work none the less.
 

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Just posted on the jacking pucks forum, but worth posting here. For safety reason I'd suggest investing in rubber wheel chocks. Wood blocks and cement blocks can slide on cement, which could turn into a very bad day for someone.

BTW, I never place jackstands under the rocker panel lifting pucks. Just doesn't look or feel secure to me. I jack the car high enough (via the jackpads) so that I can slide the jackstands to the underbody lifting points. I also use a thin square piece of hardwood on top of the jackstands to help distribute the pressure a little. For whatever reason I'm worried that just using the jackstands will result in a hole being punched through the floorboards.
 
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