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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know of or recommend good aftermarket rear springs for the base model? No lowering, same ride quality. OEM #15280026 are discontinued. Need base model, non-sport suspension type springs.

Thanks for any help.

Frank
 

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PM me if interested I should still have my OEM ones that I replaced with Eibachs at 26000 miles I'll check today .
 

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Anyone know of or recommend good aftermarket rear springs for the base model? No lowering, same ride quality. OEM #15280026 are discontinued. Need base model, non-sport suspension type springs.

Thanks for any help.

Frank
did you check at https:// www. world parts direct. com/ ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
PM me if interested I should still have my OEM ones that I replaced with Eibachs at 26000 miles I'll check today .
I’ve got 21000 on mine. My car leans 1/2”- 3/4” on the left rear side. Becoming noticeable. Anticipating replacing rear shocks and springs. Still not absolutely sure why this is happening or how common. A few others I’ve spoke to also have noticed this on theirs. May be from driver weight over time. Trying to pin point issue. Wanted to price out new components then discovered discontinued.
 

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I’ve got 21000 on mine. My car leans 1/2”- 3/4” on the left rear side. Becoming noticeable. Anticipating replacing rear shocks and springs. Still not absolutely sure why this is happening or how common. A few others I’ve spoke to also have noticed this on theirs. May be from driver weight over time. Trying to pin point issue. Wanted to price out new compliments then discovered discontinued.
Just how heavy is the driver? Mine have 90k and 108k with no spring sag. Spring failure as 21k is extremely odd and I would look for other possible causes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
While the pandemic has taken its toll on some of my physical and gym activity, I’m still holding at a svelte 180 pounds. Measured from ground through center of wheel to wheel arch. 29 psi, original tires, level surface. I’m getting 27.5” left rear. Right rear is 28.25” give or take. About 1/2” or greater difference per side. Noticeable tilt. In fact, it’s repeated (to a lesser degree) in the front, only reversed sides. Bizarre. Anyone care to confirm same?
 

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Realize that only one corner can't be low. If it's tilted to the left, it should show on the front and rear. Although, the hood alignment can affect the front, making the front a bit less accurate.

Were you parked on a verified flat surface? Could easily be an inch of difference in the surface and you'd never see it.

It'd be a bit of work, but you could try swapping the springs right to left. You'd get a good look at things while doing it too. Or do you know someone with scales? Getting corner weights might clue you in to bad spring or other issues.
 

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Mine is a Sky, and I don't know how that affects the fender opening, but at 108k miles I have 28 at both rears, 27-7/8 at driver front, and 27-3/4 at passenger front.
The parking lot is asphalt and reasonably, but not perfectly, flat.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Realize that only one corner can't be low. If it's tilted to the left, it should show on the front and rear. Although, the hood alignment can affect the front, making the front a bit less accurate.

Were you parked on a verified flat surface? Could easily be an inch of difference in the surface and you'd never see it.

It'd be a bit of work, but you could try swapping the springs right to left. You'd get a good look at things while doing it too. Or do you know someone with scales? Getting corner weights might clue you in to bad spring or other issues.
Agreed. Hood alignment is probably the culprit in the front. Rechecked rear. Measured from top of OEM wheel to wheel arch, leaving out any tire descrepancy. Left rear at 5 1/2". Right side at 5 7/8" . Level surface in a garage.

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Discussion Starter #13
Mine is a Sky, and I don't know how that affects the fender opening, but at 108k miles I have 28 at both rears, 27-7/8 at driver front, and 27-3/4 at passenger front.
The parking lot is asphalt and reasonably, but not perfectly, flat.
Also a Sky here.

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Discussion Starter #14
From another owner that posted a response in 2019 ...

Mine is the same, about 1/2 to 1/4 inch lower on drivers side in rear. Was at a body shop recently and brought it up and the guy told me that this was pretty common with gm's. Definitely would hurt to get under it and check out the suspension assembly.

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I may have some sag, since my rears are 5-1/4 and 5-3/8 (L - R) and my fronts are 5-1/8 and 5-1/4.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for checking those dimensions. I'm beginning to think that this is not too uncommon.

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The only proper way to check the ride height is on an alignment rack. Th suspension has to be unloaded and the loaded again. this is done by jacking the car up off it's wheels and then letting it back down, the tires have to sit on something that is able to float so they unload when the car gets set back down. While the hood can cause an issue with check the ride height if there was more then 1/8" difference it would be a noticeable problem with the hood. The rear cannot be matched against a front tire measurement It MUST be done from left to right only. You also cannot measure from the ground because tire inflation will change the measurement. It has to be measured from hub center to where the fender opening starts at 90° to alignment platform. A large T square can be used for doing this. because the measurement really only has to be accurate to within say 1/4" you can eyeball where straight up is from the hub center.

Just remember you can only compare the measurement from a front tire to the other front tire and the same goes for the rear.

There are also rubber bushings in the shocks where the bolts/pins go through that hold the shocks in place. If those rubber bushings are toast you could see as mush as 1/2" difference in ride height. A bent lower control arm can also cause a ride height problem.
 

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If you do find that there is a measurement difference, you can remove the springs as the possible cause by jacking the rear of the car up so both rear tires are off the ground. Then measure from the hub center to the wheel well opening. If the measurements are not the same then you have a suspension part that is bent, it is probably going to be a lower control arm. You can actually check this before bringing it to an alignment place to have them check the ride height. If you find that there is a measurement difference then you know it is not the spring.
 
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The only proper way to check the ride height is on an alignment rack. Th suspension has to be unloaded and the loaded again. this is done by jacking the car up off it's wheels and then letting it back down, the tires have to sit on something that is able to float so they unload when the car gets set back down. ..........
I am going to disagree here. Ride height can be checked by rolling or driving the car onto a flat surface, with the caveat that the accuracy of measurement depends on the flatness of the surface. I have a concrete garage floor that was finished specifically to allow the suspension setup of the cars we were racing when I built the house. It is not quite as accurate as an alignment rack, but it is well within the limits of any measurement being done with a scale or measuring tape.

The loading and unloading has to be done after changes are made, but is not necessary to get an initial measurement, and the sliding plates are not needed if you roll the car several feet out of position backwards and then back into position for the next measurement.
 

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I'd replace your original tires first, not that it has anything to do with your ride height.

I typically set my height off the lower control arm mounts. They tend to be in similar locations relative to the rest of the chassis on all kappas regardless of if it's a solstice or sky, or how well body panels are aligned.
 
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