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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, just got my 07 GXP back from the shop that installed my ZZP Gen 3 block with my redone factory head and got it all back in the car for me, and I’m in need of a couple pictures of a factory car.

There’s a few things yet I’ve got to do, mainly buttoning up the wiring harness and some vacuum lines. If I could see some pictures of the areas I need on a factory car that would help a ton. Here’s where I’m at:

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Sorry if my pictures suck and thanks for any and all help.
 

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I have numbered the clips in your photos to tell you where they go.


the harnesses with the silver wrapping all go to the passenger side of the car between the turbo and the firewall.

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-2: exhaust cam position sensor. back of the head on the passenger side directly across from the intake cam sensor
-1: intake cam position sensor on back of the head on the driver side near the high pressure fuel pump
0: engine coolant temp sensor this is on the passenger side down near where the heater core lines attach to the block . Make sure you slide that cover over the connector once it is plugged into the sensor.
1: downstream O2 sensor
2: Ground strap, bolts to the back side of the head on the driver side.
3: upstream O2 sensor
4: can't see the connector and I can't think of anything that should be heat shielded and is not already stated.


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5: coolant line to turbo, a 3/8" coolant hose runs from that nipple to a hard pipe on the other side of the head. The pipe is bolted to the head and there is a banjo bolt that attaches the hard line to the turbo. This is a formed hose and a formed hose MUST be used to replace it.
6: coolant line to overflow bottle. This is a formed hose and a formed hose MUST be used to replace it. It is a 3/8" line
7: can see the end of the line as it is coiled up under it's self. This is the boost control vacuum line. It connects to the front of the turbo onto the nipple sticking out of the white plastic plate that has 3 allen bolts in it.



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8: AC clutch ??? (on AC compressor)
9: AC pressure sensor. literally directly under your hand attached to the thin silver pipe
10: fuel pressure sensor???


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11: brake fluid level sensor??? (under brake fluid reservoir)
12: hmmm, beats the hell out of me!
13: intake pressure and air temperature sensor on cold side charge pipe
14: throttle body
15: coolant level sensor??? (under overflow bottle)

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16: front of turbo, wastegate control solenoid (black box with vacuum lines attached to it)
17: MAF sensor (attached to the lid of the air filter box)


This next piece is really important. in the last photo the main wiring harness that clip 17 goes into. That harness runs across the front of the engine. If you look at the photo at the block you can see 2 studs with nuts on them sticking out one on each side of the idler pulley. On that harness there are 2 brown wire routing clips. You can see on of them just in front of the alternator. Those clips are supposed to push onto the studs to keep the harness from dropping and hitting the pulleys. Those things are junk and the they will fall of the studs. I suggest you use Nylon zip ties and zip tie the harness onto the studs, route the harness over the tops of the studs and zip tie around the harness and the stud. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the tail sticking out of the zip tie as close as you can to the harness and twist the needle nose pliers. you want to roll that tail around the tips of the pliers. This is going to pull the tie really tight.


That should help you out a whole lot. Trying to get photos of where the clips are supposed to plug into would be really challenging without the engine out of the vehicle. The hardest things to locate are going to be the cam position sensors and the coolant temp sensor. You really can't see them very well. To see the cam position sensors you can use a mirror. the coolant temp sensor is down low where the pipes that runs from the back of the water pump attaches to the thermostat housing which is bolted to the side of the block, basically between the catalyst and the block.

The upstream and downstream O2 sensors have pigtails on them. The pigtails have metal hooks on the clips and the clips should be visible on the passenger side between the heater box and the catalyst . They should be hanging off one of the metal brackets that the wiper cowl screws into.


If you have any other questions fire away.
 

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I think that #4 from the first photo plugs into the high pressure fuel pump.
 

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If you ever have to pull the motor again use number tape to mark a connector take a photo where the connector is when it is plugged in and then write down the number from the tape and the filename of the photo next to it. and if you know what it is plugged into also write that down.

Makes it a whole lot easier when having to plug things back in, more so if it has been a long while since you unplugged them. Unfortunately the harness routing diagrams in the service manual really suck. I am working from memory and also from connector views of the clips in the service manual...

There are a couple of clips that are under the intake on the driver side that are down low. I couldn't really see what they were plugged into and didn't bother to spend the time to figure it out. I worked by feel to unplug them and to plug them back in.
 

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As a side note. I mentioned using zip ties to hold that harness to those studs. The actual best thing to do ( and it is what I did) is if you are handy to any degree is to go and buy some 1" wide x 1/8" thick aluminum flat bar from home depot. You can bend this stuff pretty easily and you should bend 2 brackets. You want the brackets so that they can bolt onto the top of the valve cover then make a 90° turn and head down the front of the engine where you curl the flat bar to make a "J" hook. you want to be able to put the harness in the hook to hold it up. There are 2 spots on the top of the valve cover on either front corner that you can put bolts into. I don't have my engine cover on and I removed the studs that the cover snaps onto. I think that the studs originally screwed into those holes. If you use the cover then take the studs out put the brackets in place and put the studs back in.

If you have a pop rivet gun you can make additional "J"s and rivet them to the brackets. You can then support the turbo coolant line. If you make a large enough set of "j"s you can also do the upper radiator hose as well. If you do not support the upper radiator hose it is going to sag and come into contact with the fan shroud in a bad place. Right where there is a plastic nub sticking out of it. If you inspect you old radiator hose you may find a place in the middle of it where the rubber is wearing from sitting on the fan shroud.


Here is a photo of the "J" hook bracket I made. The red and black wires are the factory ones I just removed the wire loom and separated them. I didn't have to support the upper radiator hose and turbo coolant line because I used CSST which is self supporting. But there is enough space to add additional hooks to support both the turbo coolant line and also the upper radiator hose.

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This photo shows the 2 spots where you can bolt the brackets to.

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I also want to express my opinions of what the ZZP gen 3 block and head looks like from what I am seeing in the photos. It not cleaned properly and in the condition that I would expect from a re-manufactured block and head. you ordered a long block and a such it should have come with a new timing chain cover. Here is a photo of a ZZP long block.

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their images above for a log block.

your images. dirty timing chain cover, dirty idler pulley. dirty head gasket


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dirty head

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dirty coil packs, dirty alternator mounting bracket,
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dirty oil dip stick shaft

I am sure if you have photo of of it when it first arrived i would be able to tell you what is not done properly.


HJere is the description of the modifications needed to be done to get it to fit into the LNF Kappa platform.


This engine can also be installed in a rear wheel drive Saturn Sky or Pontiac Solstice GXP, however it will require a LNF head swap. if you want a complete engine, we can do this for you, but you would select "Sky/Solstice LNF" We will simply swap the head for a new LNF head/cam and it will clear your firewall. You will need to reuse your RWD specific balancer, oil pan, valve cover, and cylinder head coolant bleed fitting for the easiest install. The ZFR will require extensive modifications to fit the RWD application. It can be done, but it would cost a few hundred more.

It does not come with an intake manifold or fuel rail/injectors, the stock K04 or a ZFR turbo is optional, however to run the ZFR in a Kappa (Sky/Solstice) it requires extensive modifications. (power steering reservoir relocated, custom wastegate bracket, compressor cover modifications)


You can simply bolt on your factory intake manifold, throttle body, and fuel rail/injectors.
You will need to reuse your RWD specific balancer, oil pan, valve cover, and cylinder head coolant bleed fitting for the easiest install.
These are the things from their description that needs to be reused from your old engine.
intake manifold
fuel rail/injectors
balancer
oil pan
valve cover
coolant bleed fitting


makes no mention of

alternator brackets,
timing chain covers,
oil dip stick tubes,
coil packs

needing to be swapped over. and and coolant bleed fitting is item # 5 and 6 from the first photo. and only a single piece of that fitting would need to be replaced and that is the banjo bolt that sticks out of the top and not both nipples.


did you order the engine with the turbo??
 

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also does the new engine include the HPFP roller lifter? if not make sure you take the on out of the old head. it can be inserted right through the HPFP opening without having to take the valve cover off at all. Just make sure that you tighten the bolts for the HPFP evenly. 1/2 turn after you get them finger tight. if you don't it can cause scoring and also binding of the HPFP shaft and bore in the head.

make sure the roller end is horizontal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Holy crap, thanks for all the replies! I’m looking to get back out there in the next day or two and tackle some more stuff, and these pictures will be immensely helpful. Also a lot of stuff, really as much as could be, was reused from the old engine. I didn’t but their long block, just the short block. I had my head redone at a local machine shop, and had the shop install that on the ZZP Gen 3 block. I didn’t notice their notes about reusing the oil pan and such, but the shop alerted me and thankfully I had a brand new OEM oil pan still in the bag.

Little backstory, the car has actually been down since 16, it cracked one of the factory pistons due to a bad/way too aggressive tune. Completely my fault, lesson learned.
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The way I saw it I had two options, due a factory rebuild to get it back up ASAP, or take the opportunity to work towards my long terms goals of a built engine and I chose the latter, I took my time buying nothing but the best. The car has:
Factory head redone
ZZP Gen 3 block
Wiseco forged pistons
ZZP 4340 rods
ZZP E85 intake cam
ZZP opel E85 injectors
Factory K04 (for now)
Factory IC (for now)
K&N Typhoon Intake
Solo High flow cat
Solo street race exhaust
Brand new RE71R’s (got in on the close out deal)

Can’t wait to get it back up and going. This was my first engine pull and didn’t think of all the helpful little things like labeling and taping off connectors. One other major thing I would have done was bag every batch of nuts studs and bolts and religiously labeled them, that’s the issue I’m running into now. Probably going to be ordering a bunch of little stuff from gmpartsgiant or seeing what I can get locally. Basically all I have left to do is (not in any order):


Put turbo on
Put exhaust back on
Put intake back on
Finish wiring
Finish vacuum lines
New tune
Install and wire AEM gauges
Install intake manifold and power brake booster
Change trans fluid
Change diff fluid
Fill and burp coolant
Replace o2 sensors
Fill with oil and add filter

Thanks so much again for the help and so glad she’s almost done!
 

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Lesson learned and sounds like you are doing it right by building it properly. I’ve never done this myself on my cars but have helped several friends. You are correct on disassemble: take pics of everything, label everything and bag everything that is being reused. Most of the time the motor was “overbuilt” if there is such a thing for it’s intended purpose. I personally would rather have a 400hp motor capable of 5-600 than maxed out to only handle 400hp.
 

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I am hoping that the descriptions of where some of the harnesses plug into has helped.

a sharpie, paper bags and photos are the biggest help when doing a project of this magnitude.. Hindsight helps for later projects but not for the one at hand...

When doing a complete engine removal rebuild and then putting the engine back in the best thing to do is to take the engine out with the harness still attached to it. then unplug each sensor with the engine already removed from the car...

The routing of the engine harness in the kappas sucked from the get go and you should have routed the harness a completely different way when putting the engine in. too late to do that now but it's good information for those that may do this in the future.

IDK at what point you are at now, or what you may be stuck on. so if you have extra bolts and or still have harnesses where you do not know where they go give me some photos. I need the photos of the lengths of the bots and the size of the heads of the bolts. for any clips I need pictures of the number of wires into the clips, the color of the wires and also a photo of the pin side of the clips.

I can provide you a list and diagrams of each and every clip in the engine bay and it will include wire color and also the pin location for that wire in the clip and also the diameter of the wire in millimeters. It will tell you what the clip plugs into but it will not give you the location of where that is.

I am pretty good at this kind of thing and I can walk you through what needs to go where. I just need a list of what you are having an issue with.
 

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did you go with a stock short block? or did you have them build the short block???

The OE head doesn't do well above 6500-6800 RPM the valves will float and broken lash adjusters are a problem as well.... so when you had your head rebuilt porting it, oversized valves, double springs and performance cams with a modified fuel pump lobe would have been the way to go if you beefed up the lower end.

Did you put in neutral balance shafts or delete them all together??? did you put in upgraded timing chain guide bolts? did you replace the cam phasers??
 
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from your photo I am seeing a monster amount of detonating occurring.



when you look at the image this way you can see all of the damage caused by detonation it is really seen along the lower edge of the piston where it meets the cylinder wall.

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it also looks like the cylinder sleeve is letting go between the 2 cylinders.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good thing I trashed the old block then! I’m not surprised there was even more damage than I was aware of, the tune was pretty aggressive/junky.

I’m getting ready to put the turbo back on and am running into an issue with the brace that bolts to the block, a couple things actually.
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The hole directly in the center if the picture is for the turbo oil line from what I understand, and the hole directly to the left of that in the block is for the turbo brace to attach to, correct? I have the turbo and brace:
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How exactly does the brace attach to both ends? From what I’m seeing, it’s a stud with a nut that goes on the turbo in the hole facing me on the exhaust side and the other end goes to that hole in the block, is that with a bolt or a stud and nut also?
Thanks so much again for the help, taking it a step at a time.

PS: The stud in the top left of the first picture coming off the manifold had to be replaced after the fact, and it’s not super tight like the factory ones are. What’s the best way to tighten this up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
did you go with a stock short block? or did you have them build the short block???

The OE head doesn't do well above 6500-6800 RPM the valves will float and broken lash adjusters are a problem as well.... so when you had your head rebuilt porting it, oversized valves, double springs and performance cams with a modified fuel pump lobe would have been the way to go if you beefed up the lower end.

Did you put in neutral balance shafts or delete them all together??? did you put in upgraded timing chain guide bolts? did you replace the cam phasers??
I got it a couple pieces at a time, so it was originally a stock ZZP Gen 3 short block and bought the rods and pistons after the fact. Head was just redone by a local machine shop with stock parts. Stock balance shafts, and since it was a brand new block I didn't want to cheap out on any accessories so almost everything on the block is new. Brand new entire timing kit, etc/
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Also, what size bolts go in for this little guy? Can’t remember what if’s called. Here’s a pic of everything I’ve got laying around
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don't worry about that bracket for the turbo. and for the bolt for the bypass solenoid, whatever bolts fit. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay cool, didn’t know if it was necessary or not and just didn’t want to stress the studs or anything too much. Will post more progress shortly!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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Turbo is on. 👍 Have brand new gaskets of course, this one goes from the turbo exhaust to the cat correct?

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Also, what are the specs for the bolts going from the turbo exhaust to the cat? I have the solo HFC.
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The specs for the bolts are "tight". They are a pretty decent sized bolt and it would take quite a bit to over tighten them to the point of them snapping. Plus it should be a bolt and a nut if memory serves so even if you do over tighten it and it breaks you can get a new bolt and nut.

You may consider using some permatex copper anti-seize on the bolts tho.


The gasket you have is not the correct one. this is the correct one.


before you put the catalyst in get the oil feed and coolant lines hooked up. I am hoping that you already have the oil return installed, if you don't you are going to take to take the turbo back out. it has to be bolted onto the bottom of the turbo and then the turbo put in making sure to get the return into the hole on the block. put a little bit of oil on the o-ring on the return line it will make it easier going in.

The reason why you don't have to worry about that bracket on the turbo is there is a bracket that attaches to the bottom of the catalyst and bolts to the block the turbo isn't going to go anywhere. You will see what I am talking about once you get to that point.
 

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also. before you put the catalyst in you are going to want to get the O2 sensor screwed into it first. again use permatex copper anti-seize on it. be careful to only put it on the threads of the sensor.
Because you have a high flow catalyst you are going to need an O2 extension on the downstream O2 sensor (one after the catalyst) otherwise you will get a check engine light for the catalyst not functioning correctly.
 
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