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I compared readings between the Torque app and the gauges (RPM, oil pressure, boost, voltage) and see no latency when I blip the throttle.
Latency is only an issue when you are trying to datalog, and is generally proportional to the cost of the dongle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Just replaced the HPFP, roller, hp fuel line, bolts and gasket. Not a bad job and I decided to not take off the cowl snd wipers. My hands took a couple scrapes but it took me less than 5 minutes to get the the bolts off, plate off and back in place at the end. I’m pretty good at finding holes in the dark 🤣🤣🤣. Definitely needed to break out the stubby for back there. The reason I went this route first is I have terrible luck dealing with plastic parts. As my wife says, “ I’m a bull in a China shop” and I pretty sure something would have cracked or broke. I would have taken it off if I could not get it with the parts in place. I’m going to post a couple of pics. The roller has some wear that I don’t know if I should be concerned with for only 42,000 miles. Secondly, the pick of the pump location definitely had gas and oil in there. I’m guessing there should be zero gas in that hole where the plunger meets the roller? I’ll also post a pic of the pump and it doesn’t look bad and the seal seems fine so I’m not sure if it was leaking from the plunger piston.
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My roller looked the same on the front "roller" part but I didn't have the scraping on the sides that yours appears to have. Keep in mind i was only at about 25K Miles when i did mine. However since i had ordered a new one anyways I replaced it and kept the old one as a spare.

Logic would dictate that if indeed you had gas leaking it was reducing the lubricity of the oil and contributing to that edge wear?

Good work on the job. I dont envy your knuckles but kudos for doing it without removing the cowling. I have removed the cowling so many times now i can do it in my sleep but i totally get the hesitation in removing a plastic part that can be hard to find a replacement for. Couldn't believe how much dirt and dust was underneath it at the base of the windshield and wiper arms.

Assuming you have changed the oil now, how does it run?
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
My roller looked the same on the front "roller" part but I didn't have the scraping on the sides that yours appears to have. Keep in mind i was only at about 25K Miles when i did mine. However since i had ordered a new one anyways I replaced it and kept the old one as a spare.

Logic would dictate that if indeed you had gas leaking it was reducing the lubricity of the oil and contributing to that edge wear?

Good work on the job. I dont envy your knuckles but kudos for doing it without removing the cowling. I have removed the cowling so many times now i can do it in my sleep but i totally get the hesitation in removing a plastic part that can be hard to find a replacement for. Couldn't believe how much dirt and dust was underneath it at the base of the windshield and wiper arms.

Assuming you have changed the oil now, how does it run?
I figured fuel was reducing the lubricity on the roller. I just hope I don’t have much damage to the rest of the motor. I’ve never let my oil get below 25% on the oil change monitor and for a long time we only put a couple thousand or less miles a year on it. Speaking of the dirt, that was one thing I didn’t think of taking the cowl off. I can only imagine. Maybe I might try that later on now that I know there’s crap under there.

I did change the oil and that brings me to another question. No oil jugs I looked at has the gm 6049 on the bottle. Did they quit putting that on oil jugs? After the oil change I took her out for a 30 minute drive and so far no CEL and it does idle steady at 750 whereas before it would bounce around. Seems to drive smoother too but that could be me just thinking that it is. There is a more rhythmic smooth sound from the pump too. Not much difference but there is a difference from the original. I’m guessing it was just a matter of time before the pump completely went out.
Thanks to everyone who’s done this already and posted your experience. The biggest PITA for me was getting the cam sensors to release. I’ve had them off before but this time I had to use a small pair of pliers to get one to release.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Well, my problem has resurrected itself. I’ve gapped my plugs at .032, was 038-039 but that didn’t help. Used intake cleaner and that smoothed out the motor but no avail. The parts store says it most likely the wiring to the injectors but I’m not sure since the issue come back at random intervals. Anywhere from a few hundred miles to as little as 25. Of it where electric is think the cel would come on more consistently. I also don’t know if all 4 injectors would go bad or partially bad at the same time. I figured I had carbon build up since that seems to be a common culprit and at 49k miles it shouldn’t be too bad but the cleaner although helped smooth out the idle and stop the backfires the misfire still happens in all 4 cylinders. Thinking the dealer might be my next stop since my wife needs the car and hopefully they can figure it out in a day.
 

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I went through a very similar ordeal and did much of what you have done (if not more).
For me it ended up being one bad coil and another that was initially intermittently failing. I think.
I did so much other stuff (including replacing the coils - it was the new ones that turned out to be faulty) but that was the last thing I did before the codes for misfires stopped.

if you were local I would loan you my spare set of coils to test it out but since you need it in a rush the dealer may be a good call. Currently happily running NGK coils (thanks for the recommendation KG) that I picked up at a local NAPA Auto parts store that had them.
My code scanner kept telling me to check the wiring for the fuel injectors, so I think that is a default recommendation from the apps…

Best of luck and keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I went through a very similar ordeal and did much of what you have done (if not more).
For me it ended up being one bad coil and another that was initially intermittently failing. I think.
I did so much other stuff (including replacing the coils - it was the new ones that turned out to be faulty) but that was the last thing I did before the codes for misfires stopped.

if you were local I would loan you my spare set of coils to test it out but since you need it in a rush the dealer may be a good call. Currently happily running NGK coils (thanks for the recommendation KG) that I picked up at a local NAPA Auto parts store that had them.
My code scanner kept telling me to check the wiring for the fuel injectors, so I think that is a default recommendation from the apps…

Best of luck and keep us posted.
Thanks. I’m not a master at automotive stuff but I’m not a novice either and it just baffles me. Nothing makes sense. About a week ago I had it scanned snd this time it was only 3 cylinders instead of all 4??? This time it’s back to all 4 🤬🤬🤬. I’m just at a loss and tired of spending times on this. Since my wife drives it I don’t want this to end up being a catastrophic issue if I don’t get it figured out soon and leaving her stranded an hour from home. I appreciate the offer on the coil packs if we were closer. I’ll update when something gets figured out.
 

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@R&T


How many miles on the car???

Also it's not going to be the wiring to the injectors. if you have gone through the usual plugs and coils and you are still getting misfires the next step would be to check fuel pressures to make sure the pressure is not dropping off. Even tho the pump is new it could be faulty. If you look at the freeze frame data when the misfire DTC was set and check the rail pressure if that is OK than fuel is not the issue.

You probably are having misfire problems because of carbon buildup on the backs of the intake valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
@R&T


How many miles on the car???

Also it's not going to be the wiring to the injectors. if you have gone through the usual plugs and coils and you are still getting misfires the next step would be to check fuel pressures to make sure the pressure is not dropping off. Even tho the pump is new it could be faulty. If you look at the freeze frame data when the misfire DTC was set and check the rail pressure if that is OK than fuel is not the issue.

You probably are having misfire problems because of carbon buildup on the backs of the intake valves.
49,000 miles. The plugs are at 8,000 and look good. I have not replaced the coils. I think I’ll try another can of intake valve cleaner and see if that fixes it. I never thought about the new pump being bad. Thanks for the info. If this cam doesn’t fix it I’ll probably have the dealer do the BG I take cleaner on it. I’ve been told it’s a stronger solvent and is only available to shops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Ok. Just started up the car to go get intake cleaner and now the cel is off!! WTH is going on? I didn’t clear any codes and the light was on when I shut it off last night🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ This makes no sense at all. Anyways, I’m going to run some more crc throgh the intake
 

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Ok. Just started up the car to go get intake cleaner and now the cel is off!! WTH is going on? I didn’t clear any codes and the light was on when I shut it off last night🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ This makes no sense at all. Anyways, I’m going to run some more crc throgh the intake
Some codes will clear themselves after a number of drive cycles without the problem that triggered the code originally, and many codes require a number of drive cycles with the problem to set them.
 
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If it is driving fine (and just a guess here) and the codes are resetting themselves, you may want to drive it for a few days to see if it settles in.
I have noticed that behavior from my car. It seems to settle in over the course of a few days whenever I make a change. Could be all in my head but has happened to me on more than one part change.
Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Some codes will clear themselves after a number of drive cycles without the problem that triggered the code originally, and many codes require a number of drive cycles with the problem to set them.
Ok. Hopefully whatever cleared the code keeps it cleared.
If it is driving fine (and just a guess here) and the codes are resetting themselves, you may want to drive it for a few days to see if it settles in.
I have noticed that behavior from my car. It seems to settle in over the course of a few days whenever I make a change. Could be all in my head but has happened to me on more than one part change.
Keep us posted.
That’s a good idea. Took it out for a 50 minute drive last night and ran well with no cel. Fingers crossed that it stays off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Ok. Update time. My CEL is coming back on and off since replacing the HPFP. I’ve ran two cans of crc intake cleaner and a fuel tank cleaner and the cel stayed off for short period. It seems to come back on after 7-10 cycles and the mileage varies snd twice it’s gone off by itself.

I finally took it in so the mechanic could hook it up and see what’s going on. He checked plugs, gas, etc… and then took it for a 30 minute drive while logging the run on his scan tool. He can see the misfires on all cylinders at random times and conditions. I think he said they happen in all cylinders around the same time but I’m not 100% sure and it’s a small amount every time. He can’t feel the misfires while driving, he can’t figure out what’s causing the misfires because everything checks out: afr, spark, timing, the injectors are firing fine, fuel pressure is perfect. The only thing he can come up with is possibly a crank position sensor maybe going out but highly unlikely or possibly carbon buildup on the valves which KG suggested earlier. All electrical stuff checks out because I inquired about the printout from the parts store said replace the injector wiring harness as a possible fix.
Now, here’s where I’m confused. Today I pulled the wiring harness from the coil packs, sprayed MAF cleaner into both sides of the connectors and plugged them back in. I noticed there’s some dirt/dust that’s accumulated inside the connectors but couldn’t see corrosion. I fired up the car and the CEL turned off🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️. Now, I’m wondering if it’s electrical. My wiring harness is smashed a little between the back two plugs as it was apparently pinched by the plastic cover when I pushed it into the stud sometime over the last 13 years. I’m scheduled to have the carbon chemically cleaned off next Monday via GMs induction service. It takes a couple hours I was told. Is there anything I can check electronically that he hasn’t? This is getting very frustrating. Here’s a pic of my injector harness. Could it be damaged? White Automotive tire Black Motor vehicle Hood

I just realized that if it was that pinched area it wouldn’t be affecting the back cylinder and only the front three probably.
 

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Ok. Update time. My CEL is coming back on and off since replacing the HPFP. I’ve ran two cans of crc intake cleaner and a fuel tank cleaner and the cel stayed off for short period. It seems to come back on after 7-10 cycles and the mileage varies snd twice it’s gone off by itself.

I finally took it in so the mechanic could hook it up and see what’s going on. He checked plugs, gas, etc… and then took it for a 30 minute drive while logging the run on his scan tool. He can see the misfires on all cylinders at random times and conditions. I think he said they happen in all cylinders around the same time but I’m not 100% sure and it’s a small amount every time. He can’t feel the misfires while driving, he can’t figure out what’s causing the misfires because everything checks out: afr, spark, timing, the injectors are firing fine, fuel pressure is perfect. The only thing he can come up with is possibly a crank position sensor maybe going out but highly unlikely or possibly carbon buildup on the valves which KG suggested earlier. All electrical stuff checks out because I inquired about the printout from the parts store said replace the injector wiring harness as a possible fix.
Now, here’s where I’m confused. Today I pulled the wiring harness from the coil packs, sprayed MAF cleaner into both sides of the connectors and plugged them back in. I noticed there’s some dirt/dust that’s accumulated inside the connectors but couldn’t see corrosion. I fired up the car and the CEL turned off🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️. Now, I’m wondering if it’s electrical. My wiring harness is smashed a little between the back two plugs as it was apparently pinched by the plastic cover when I pushed it into the stud sometime over the last 13 years. I’m scheduled to have the carbon chemically cleaned off next Monday via GMs induction service. It takes a couple hours I was told. Is there anything I can check electronically that he hasn’t? This is getting very frustrating. Here’s a pic of my injector harness. Could it be damaged? View attachment 120061
I just realized that if it was that pinched area it wouldn’t be affecting the back cylinder and only the front three probably.
Scanning back through this thread i didn’t see mention of an aftermarket tune. Is this engine bone stock?
If you are taking it to GM I would ask if they can test the harness for proper electrical levels everywhere.

If you haven’t already also load test the battery.

just guessing here but it does seem to be leaning into an electrical issue . That could be a failing ECM, down the wiring harness all the way to the connectors and fuse box. This would include checking the coils as well as the harness running to the fuel injectors. Checking the vehicles grounds (including the stereo and especially if you have an aftermarket one as I have read of wacky behavior around a poorly wired head unit)

all of the above seems unlikely however it has to be something and starting with the ECM connectors and working your way down the line seems logical.

not sure if there is a way to test the ECM itself but you can sure check the connectors for corrosion and such.
I am sure others more experienced may be able to pint you in a better direction…
 

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your harness is not damaged. The CEL will turn off after a couple cycles of the key if the problem hasn't continued. it is likely that it is a coincidence and nothing more because you would not have had the CEL go out from a change you just made. carbon buildup on the valves does not mean that it wold cause a consistent problem. temperature, humidity and how you are driving the vehicle can be the kid poking the stick into the fire ant nest. easiest way to know if that is the problem is to use an endoscope so you can view the backs of the valves with out having to take a whole mess of things apart.
 
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