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Read the tread in General Discussion titled " Buying a solstice ". Lots of good input.

Some have said the manual gears tend to slightly grind between 1st to 2nd if you do not rest the 1st to 2nd gear momentarily at neutral before move to 2nd. And, some say that if you have a sensitive ear for noises coming from the car, you may notice the transmission clunks between gears if you do not finesse the clutch vs acceleration / deceleration. This in fact is true in my experience with my 2006 Base Sol that I bought. I must say that I do like my Sol a lot.
 

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To add my $.02, I find that my NA 07 is exactly as I expected. It is not softly suspended. Requires attention of the driver, as opposed to my wife's van, at all times. Every little bump is felt. Every curve is a race track. Not so interested in drag racing, but the curves....that is where it is for me. The fit and finish do not equal a more expensive car, but it is good enough. Mine is not a show car. It does not sit idle in a garage or driveway, for long. I commute. I do all my errands, that don't need the truck, in it. I am having a blast.
 

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Welcome to the forum Uncle & i hope you read Getting your Solstice under Explore Our Forums on the right hand side & good luck in your search. I like the way my solstice handles those those twisty corners over other cars i have drove through the years.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I am continuing to follow this thread, not becuz i started it, but becuz wow, I can't believe the amount of input! As the car is so rare, I didn't think this forum do be so active. Hopefully others will benefit as well.

Yes, I before test driving, and before making an account here, I read some of the "getting your solstice" section, especially "wise words from a wise man".

@HtWlz, thank you for your very thorough and honest report. I am understanding of the expectations of this car as you describe. I realize comparing a mercedes to a solstice is like a Cessna vs. a biplane.

I am still considering higher millage vehicles because of the price, and realize I need to expect maintenance costs. (my TR6 needed tune-ups twice a year to keep the carbs in sync)

I do plan on this being a commuting car... 20 miles one way, back roads not freeway. I also plan on keeping the civic for a while, until I get a assurance of reliability.

Many folks here are recommending I go for a GXP. I'm still working class and didn't want to spring for monthly payments of a car over $10,000. I am considering that... If I really enjoy the car I can upgrade in a year.

I will look again to see if there is a GXP available nearby to test drive. I only saw one listed and didn't like the report so I passed on it.

On the way home from the last test drive, I joked with my dad that maybe I need to expand my search to Florida, suggesting that there are many retiree's wanting to downsize and sell the cars they don't, or can't, drive anymore, that wouldn't have driven the "hell" out of, and have nothing but time to take care of their cars.

Then, POOF! I found a Sol nearby listed last weekend, and have been talking with a 70+ year old couple who have a 2.4L they got to cruze around the coast and have loved it, but it is just sitting now and decided they don't need 3 cars. 110k miles, asking $6000. I checked the report... well maintained and only a minor psgr front fender scrape in 2012.

I will be looking at it Sunday. After that I will try to find a GXP to compare.

Thank you everone for your continued input. It is most valuable!
 

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Then, POOF! I found a Sol nearby listed last weekend, and have been talking with a 70+ year old couple who have a 2.4L they got to cruze around the coast and have loved it, but it is just sitting now and decided they don't need 3 cars. 110k miles, asking $6000. I checked the report... well maintained and only a minor psgr front fender scrape in 2012.
FWIW, Sols w/100,00 miles average in price in the high $3K to lower $5K range.
 

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The GXP is an entirely different car. In stock form, it's quieter - the turbo muffles the exhaust quite a bit and, when not in boost, you may actually have less exhaust volume.
The performance difference is substantial. NAs are 180hp at the crank and very expensive to upgrade. Turbos are 260hp / 260 tq at the crank, upgradable to 290hp/340(!)tq via software. A few relatively cheap mods can get that up to the mid 300's. Even if you're not looking for a "fast" car, it's a much more pleasant driving experience.

Many GXPs also came with options that are a little harder to find on NAs like traction & stability control, better shocks, different final drive ratio, etc.

A lot of people love their NAs but, given the relatively small price difference these days, I'd only consider a turbo model.

As far as price goes: I picked up a 2007 GXP for $6500 two years ago, with about 80k miles. For its age and considering how rough I am on the car, it's been pretty reliable. It now has 112k miles. I've had to replace:
1. High-pressure fuel pump
2. Power steering pump
3. Water pump
4. Timing chain. (It didn't break - just got a cold start rattle and those really need to be replaced at 100k miles anyway.)

If you're paying $10k for one of these cars, and it's not a coupe, you're getting screwed.
 
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Discussion Starter #47
Well friends, the saga continues...

I checked out the 08 2.4L automatic with 110k+ this morning. (I'm not telling ya'll where it is or how I found it cuz I don't want anyone to go steal it.)

The engine ran solid, transmission up and down shifting at low and medium speed was smooth (did not hit the freeway), and either the suspension was broken in or worn out? but it cruzed the road surface softly and handled great in the turns. In contrast to the other 4 cars I tested with half the miles, this felt like a car. (I take back my biplane comment)

I did read the carfax report. We thoroughly inspected the body panel attachments above and below, (under the nose shows much scraping, I would replace that for a few hundred dollars) the trunk is spotless, top is beginning to show wear and would need to be replaced eventually, engine compartment looked good and the interior barely shows wear. If I hadn't looked at the odometer I'da guessed it had a third of the miles shown. (it also comes with it's own custom car cover)

The coolant level warning indicator was on. The owner said he had it looked at recently but their mechanic didn't know what was wrong and didn't replace the sensor. Based on visual inspection of the fluids and from what I've read here, it's probably a failed or clogged sensor or electrical connection. I shopped and a new reservoir with sensor is only $40-60.

All in all, in my opinion, it looks like one of those cars that has alot of longterm life in it. I'da bought it on the spot if I had the money in my pocket.

I spent 3 hours online when I got home, trying to get financing. Sites offer either funds for cars over 100k miles but under 10yrs old, or vice-versa, older than 10 but under 100k. I am confident that if my bank or credit union will not provide an auto loan, I can take equity out of my home. However, financial institutions are still only providing drive-thru service, and their online application malfunctioned 3 times. (made me mad!!)

Until I can get financing straightened out in a couple weeks, hopefully it will still be available. I may take the time in the interim to take your advice to drive a few hours next weekend to look at a GXP at a dealer who will provide financing.

Now that I know what to expect from a comfortable behind the wheel experience, I will be much more discriminatory in the cars I test drive.
 

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Not trying to burst your bubble here, just giving honest advice....Walk away from that car and forget about it. He want's too much money for a car over 100k and with an issue. You could be getting yourself into a $1000 repair bill if its a leaky waterpump. If you are insistant on looking at cars over 100k, usually the wp should have been replaced, whether a turbo or NA. The top isn't cheap to replace either....$2800-$4000 dependent on reskin or find a whole new assembly. It's not easy to reskin and finding one is extremely hard. What states are you looking in? The car you looked at is a $5k car....and -$1k because of the possibility of having to replace the waterpump. We all want you to be happy with your purchase!!! And the last car could have (just throwing this out there) a bad waterpump. The waterpump failure isn't as common in the 2.4L, but does still happen. Especially if the owner has overlooked having the cooling system flushed (many of which should be on their 2nd or 3rd flushing by now!!)
 
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Here's something to think about...it's at a dealer, so you could probably work on getting it for about $8500....And a dealer will get you financed....trust me. I used to sell cars.
 

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I see all these cars posted for higher prices, yet it took months for someone to even come look at mine and only after price ended up being at $4k. 07 gxp 120k miles
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Here's something to think about...it's at a dealer, so you could probably work on getting it for about $8500....And a dealer will get you financed....trust me. I used to sell cars.
Thank you Ghost! I do totally appreciate your contribution!

That's the car that I first test drove that prompted this OP.

Yes, Bama, the driver door closes OVER the edge of the top, and the threads in the seams around the entire perimeter are splitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
edit to previous:
the driver door WINDOW closes over the edge of the top. don't know how that alignment would be adjusted.
 

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edit to previous:
the driver door WINDOW closes over the edge of the top. don't know how that alignment would be adjusted.
If you are standing outside the car looking at the driver side window, it is usually rounded upper right rear portion of the window that closes onto the fabric causing fraying. There is an adjustment for this in the boot. It is a horizontal threaded bolt with smooth or rubber bumper on the end. There is one on the passenger side too. When you screw that bolt out (toward the rear of the car) it pulls that portion of the fabric toward the rear and away from the raised window. It doesn't take much adjustment. maybe one or two turns.
 

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One other piece of advise....if you buy from a private owner, out of your state....NEVER send them any money! Even if they ask for a $100 to hold the car...NEVER send them money. Meet them at the a bank (whether near your house or if you buy from out of state) and do the transaction in front of the teller. If you bank with a national bank like Chase, all the better. Make sure the title is free of liens. If it has a lien on it, the lien holder name will be on the title with the owner's name. If the seller says there is no lien, but its on the title, there should be a "release of lien" paper with it. Call the bank if you can to make sure there is no lien. The banks number will be right on the release of lien. When I was looking for a second car to replace my Mustang, I had 2 people try to pull scams on me. Both were out of state...both said I had to send them money to hold it for me. One wanted $500 because he had "someone else interested" and one wanted $1500 to "get it out of storage" because he was out of the country. So be very careful!!
 

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I believe that over time the factory settings of the side windows shift due to their constant use, which can lead to the fraying of verts top. Here's a thread showing how to adjust the side windows: Adjusting Side Window.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Dear friends: I guess this is where I leave you. I bought a Sky.

This thread and this forum has been an INCREDIBLE help in knowing what to look for, examine, and what to research. Thank immensely everyone! I will continue to use this forum for further info during ownership.

In summary: As a last ditch effort before giving up my search for a few months, I took a trip to look at a Sky.

One owner garage kept 2007 2.4L daily driver with 78k miles. She bought a new SUV for practicality and stopped driving it regularly and decided to let it go. Carfax says no accidents, had extensive maintenance reports (only issue was the passenger cupholder replaced in 2009.) New tires in 2015.

I had a hard time finding anything wrong with it. Softtop looks like new. interior was flawless. There was a quarter sized dent in the rear quarter and a bump in the bottom of the nose. I inspected as best I could the engine compartment, crawled under to see the trans, differential, undercarriage, lift points... aside from road dirt there were no signs of oil exposure anywhere. Behind the wheel, engine response and transmission was solid and smooth (if you rolled the odometer back to 20,000, you wouldn't know the difference.)

She had it serviced and inspected for me and there was nothing adverse noted.

I paid $7000 and feel confident it is worth it, even if I end up spending another 2000 in unexpected problems. (based on the cars asking price of i've looked at already, and the ones I have viewed online and not looked at... I have no doubt I could sell it tomorrow for 9 based on the appearance alone.

Since it has had limited road time in the last 2 years, even with the positive service report, I am having it transported to my family mechanic for $375 and have him dive into the engine for a look, rather than throw it back on the freeway for a 4 hour trip home. That cost is negligible next to breaking down in the middle of nowhere.

That's my story and i guess here I close this thread. THANK YOU!!!! EVERONE! for your input.

Please keep contributing to this forum! You elders and experienced owners are a most valuable source of information and advice!

-Denz
 

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Discussion Starter #59
addendum:

I do have to say, I had my heart set on a Solstice... I think it has a more beefy profile... it's a MAN's car.

When I view the details and chrome on the Sky, I think of it more refined and as a girly version...

but the more I look at it... it's a thing of beauty on it's own. whether it runs or not, my sex appeal goes up at least a point and a half just standing next to it.

behind the wheel; under the skin; it's still the same car.

I'll give them all a "hang loose" sign as I turn their heads while driving by.
 

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Exhaust noise almost does not exist on a stock car(at least on a turbo). Catless downpipe will add some noise. Ride is relatively harsh, throttle response is relatively weak at low rpm. But also from what i have seen, stock auto cars have a high stall torque converter that might make it feel like poor responce. Seem to flash around 2500 rpm.
For good low rpm throttle response only a large motor can provide. Sometimes i get spoiled cruising 40mph at idle(650rpm) with decent throttle response, but quickly adjust to the 2.0
The 2.0 is not designed to be driven at low RPM. Gear selection should keep the revs up above 2500. On our turbo 2,0 I keep it at 2k and up. The ECM will adjust to low RPM by changing timing and mixture. Often under these conditions it will fail to accelerate smoothly until you wake it up. Mine will ping if I drive it lugged down and hammer it.
 
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