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It’s 2020, lol, but I am wanting to retrofit my headlights for my 2007 solstice, does anyone here know how to do it? And if so how much would you guys charge?
 

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This gentleman has many posts regarding headlight mods he has completed on many Solstice's. Here's just one that Traxcustoms has done. A few fellas have done their own.


If you contact him he should be able to show you many others that he has done.
 

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It’s 2020, lol, but I am wanting to retrofit my headlights for my 2007 solstice, does anyone here know how to do it? And if so how much would you guys charge?
I did mine and I am super glad that I did. You won't believe the difference it will make. I personally did all the work to my own including painting the bezels and the projector shrouds. Some advice of things to purchase so that you can do a complete install without having to order additional parts or pieces.
1. The Morimoto MiniD2S attaches to the housing through the rear shaft of the projector body. It makes mounting them a cinch. Just pull out all of the old hardware, use a dremel or a very large drill bit to drill the back of your housing for the projector shaft. Then insert shaft and tighten the nut. Super easy to do that way.
2. Think ahead and order your halos and accent lights so that you only have to open the headlight once. I opened mine so many times that I quit putting the butyl rubber glue back in until I knew I was finished.
3. Mount your drivers for your halos and accents inside of the headlight housing. There's room to do this. I have two drivers mounted inside each of my headlight housings. This way water won't get to the electronics inside them.
4. For halos and accent lights, I would use only Diode Dynamics lights. I used Morimoto halos and accents 2/ea side for a total of four. Within the first year, three of the four drivers crapped out on me and fortunately were replaced under warranty. On the other hand when I converted my side markers to 3" LED strips, I used Diode Dynamics products, and even though I couldn't mount the drivers inside the housing to keep them dry, I haven't had a single problem out of them and I'm certain they have gotten wet as I live in the Seattle area. There's something to be said for good ole Made in the USA. Not to mention the price is about the same either way.
5. It seems almost pointless at first, but do perform the headlight marking of existing lights on a fence or garage door or something. It will give you a really good reference point once you get the new lights in. And since the D2S mounts via a tail shaft, well its easy to get that turned and have your cut off line running at and angle instead of level and straight across.
6. Don't forget to hook up the brights while you have the headlights opened up. This is really just a solenoid that lifts a cutoff blind so that you don't have a cut off anymore. Without the cutoff you will absolutely blind other drivers.
7. When you hook up the brights, the wire harness easily becomes disconnected. Do yourself a favor and use some hot glue to secure the wiring harness for your brights in place. You'll avoid opening up your headlights 15 times like me.
8. When deciding between 35W and 55W drivers for your projectors, know that the 55W drivers are brighter, however, their service life is reduced. I went with the 35W and I don't have a complaint. I'm not sure what it would be like to have the 55W, but judging by the 35W, its gotta be like a sun coming from your headlights.
9. When whomever you buy your projectors and parts from tells you not to worry about a dust cover, don't fricken believe them. That's hogwash. If you don't want your lights to get dusty and dirty on the inside, and fog up, opt for some large sealed dust covers that you can customize for your installation. While your at it, throw a couple pouches of the desiccant moisture packs in each headlight for good measure. Nothing makes me madder than doing all that work only to look at a fogged up headlight.
10. Plan to refinish your clear lenses while you have the headlights apart. For $30 at an auto parts store, 3M makes a kit to refinish your lenses. Follow the instructions in the package no matter how panicked you might want to get in the middle of the process and you'll be happy with the results. But don't somehow think the insides need polished too (unless the headlights have been opened previously, then you'll have to inspect for damage). The inside of the lenses have been protected from scratches, knicks, etc for 13 years, don't think you'll improve the inside too, you'll just be kicking yourself.
11. Do purchase the wiring harness for the D2S that allows you to use the factory headlight connection to connect right into an interface box that feeds the drivers for the projectors. No modification to the wiring for the headlights is necessary and I think the interface was less than $50.
12. Plan for this to be a two day project. Especially if you want to add halo, and even more importantly if you are adding switchback halos/accent lights. Take your time and make the wiring look factory. Buy the black wire wrap and use it all the way up to your harnesses.
13. Do the Foglight DRL mod detailed here so that you don't burn your projectors unnecessarily. Simple reroute DRLs to Foglights mod (for HID users)
14. If all that sounds like too much and you want to send them out to someone to be done, there is company called Trax Customs, the owner is a contributing member here on the site. Go have a look at some of the custom headlight work he has done, specifically on Solstice lights. Its impressive, and he's a Solstice owner!
 

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Nice post Keith. Yeah when he asked what people charge I went straight to the Trax link. :)
 
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