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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure when exactly did this started happening, but I noticed my car would stick at 1500RPM (sometimes 1800RPM - 2000RPM) after coming to a complete stop and thrown into neutral. After being stuck for a few seconds, it'll slowly drop back to the usual level.

Checked floormats and pedals already, not stuck at all.

Only recent happenings are installing my GMPP intake, replaced cat and water pump under warranty, and battery went flat and jumpstarted after I came back from vacation. Could the jumpstart of the battery messed up a sensor or something, or the cat failed again?
 

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Sticking throttle actuator or pedal sender?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well not sure yet. I'm booked in to the dealer for coming Fiday, just thinking if there's anything else I can check. I'm actually thinking if I should even take out my intake... dealers love to blame this and that.
 

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That's normal for mine - it's an emissions thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No CEL, but I'll scan it tonight anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One more finding... It only happens after the car is fully warmed, above 91 degrees Celsius.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Partially fixed. My intake was loose after the MAF, so part of it was disconnected. I've reseated it now, and seems to have cured it, except that now it still does it a tad bit about 1000RPM but it drops revs much more normal now. Probably because of the loose intake it was running lean for a bit, the computer needs to relearn?

I hope I didn't do any damage... gonna get an oil change ASAP to get whatever crap it sucked in this period out (due for one anyways).
 

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Stuck at 2000RPM? doesn't sound right...
If I take it out of gear while moving, or as soon as stopped, it hangs above idle a few seconds. The computer holds the throttle open a bit while the car is moving, to minimize emissions when you take your foot off the pedal. It takes a second or two for it to drop all the way to closed-throttle idle.
Leaking air around the MAF will confuse the computer, though, making it hold the throttle open more, because it doesn't know about the extra air flow. Now you've corrected that problem, it will hunt for the new setting a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Makes sense. I'll continue to monitor it for a few days. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update... still does 2K, but only on rare occasions where I am stuck in traffic. What worries me is that it actually rev itself up to that much.

I wonder if the battery jump really did mess up the PCM and I should do a battery disconnect.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just tried scanning, no codes. Couldn't try a battery pull, socket won't reach the neg terminal. :willy:

Gonna give it another try for another week to see if the blipping goes away.
 

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Update... still does 2K, but only on rare occasions where I am stuck in traffic. What worries me is that it actually rev itself up to that much.

I wonder if the battery jump really did mess up the PCM and I should do a battery disconnect.
One area to look at is the throttle shaft, one end has the actuator and bushing, the other end has a sealed bearing with a small end cap like a freeze plug. Any resistance in the bearing can cause the throttle from closing fully when the throttle pedal is released, thus causing a slow drop in RPM after the throttle pedal is released just enough where the ECM cannot detect a code from the throttle actuator.

Remove the throttle assy from the intake manifold. Slowly open the throttle blade and release it watching it close, see how far the blade closes should close completely without any resistance, if there is any slight resistance in the throttle blade from closing all the way there is a good possibility that the bearing is dried out of grease and possibly corroded from moisture.
You can drill a small 1/8 in. hole in the plug and add some type of lubricant to the bearing and seal it with a dab of silicone.

I had the same situation before and in time has progressively worsened to the point my car went into limp mode.
I dismantled the Old assembly for investigation and found that the bearing was 50% corroded out.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Argh... it came back again, but only once. Went home, turned car off and back on and it went away.

I somewhat doubt it's something mechanical like the throttle shaft, otherwise it won't improve just by reattaching the intake like that and turning car off, doesn't seem to make sense.

I think I might try going back to stock and see what happens first.
 
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