[Mehran333]

Hello everyone, I've recently joined the forums 10 minutes ago so a big greeting to all the veterans! Anyways.. I have previously been meaning to get into cars much and what better time than when my car gets messed up a bit?

1st problem - My AC seems to be functioning, but rather under full capacity. Not sure if it is the fan, the air compressor, or the actual Freon levels, (not 100% sure what I'm talking about - very new to cars, at the moment), but when I set the temperature all the way to cool it is still quite warm, I would estimate about 80ish or so degrees and it gets hotter when turning to the warmer side, so the knob works at least to an extent. Any solutions? Also i have a few pictures of inside my hood that might help, as I don't know the parts or much about cars as mentioned, any car experts' advice is welcomed and appreciated.

General Picture of my engine bay: Picture #1

A close up of a discharge or a possible leak: Picture #2 (Could anybody tell me what this wire/valve is for? Could this be a link to the AC and its problem?

The windshield fluid was open like this when I popped the hood earlier, could this be the issue with the AC? And how much should I top it off? Picture #3

Additionally my rear differential has been making noise when turning, some say it's from the power steering, some say the fluid or "Slip" so I was wondering if this will fix it: GM Limited-Slip "Posi" Additive - On another forum it said adding this additive should reduce the noise and lubricate it (not sure what exactly) to resolve the issue.

Lastly I had an encounter with my garage a week ago and managed to scrape it :cuss: but the damage does not seem to be that bad and I was planning on repairing it myself. I figure it's only a paint issue and under research have concluded I need a primer, base coat, and clear coat. Picture #4

I understand multiple aspects of my post have been already answered and I have looked at a few threads concerning my problems, but I have not found specific solutions or similar issues like mine so any information and extra advice will be regarded and thanks to all who take the time to respond!

 

[rob the elder]

If the AC compresser is cycling on and you are getting cooling, the next thing to check is calibration of the AC controls. There is a procedure in the owners manual and listed on the forums in several places that will recalibrate your controls .

http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f12/intermittent-air-conditioning-57302/#post1013192

Run this first.

 

[Mehran333]

If the AC compresser is cycling on and you are getting cooling, the next thing to check is calibration of the AC controls. There is a procedure in the owners manual and listed on the forums in several places that will recalibrate your controls .

http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f12/intermittent-air-conditioning-57302/#post1013192

Run this first.

Okay thank you! Will try it and repost with additional information/results.

 

[Mehran333]

Okay well I tried your advice rob and I did in fact recalibrate my AC; however, the air blowing is still quite warm, not warm warm but it is still roughly 80ish I would say. I'm quite sure the AC should be cooler and was wondering it might just be need of Freon adding? If so, where is it located to add and how to do it myself for a pontiac solstice? I read upon it and seems quite easy but would like opinions from y'all. Thanks again!

 

[Mehran333]

Also, I just cleaned my air filter as it was moderately dirty. Vacuum method of course, and still relatively warm air... I would say it might just be warm because I turn on the car and test the AC, but I'm sure in 30 seconds of full blowing on vent-mode at the "coldest" temperature it should be more than warm air. Next suggestion is Freon or air compression/valves?

 

[SolNut]

Freon first!

 

[Mehran333]

Freon first!

So try adding Freon and then re-calibrate my AC after after?

Also, what type/brand of Freon would y'all suggest?

 

[Radio Doc]

So try adding Freon and then re-calibrate my AC after after?

Yes, add Freon first...but before you do that, see if you can borrow a set of A/C gauges and actually measure what is going on. They used to have a "sight glass" on the A/C system and if you saw bubbles in it, you needed a recharge. Unfortunately, those days are gone forever and you need a gauge. Try one of the big auto suppliers (O'Reilly, Auto Zone, etc). Sometimes they will loan you a gauge or measure it for you in their parking lot. Otherwise, see if they sell them at Harbor Freight.

Also, what type/brand of Freon would y'all suggest?

First and foremost, check your owner's manual, but probably R-34a. And you really should use a gauge if you are adding Freon; too much Freon and you can "slug" the compressor --not good and very expensive.

 

[Mehran333]

...

Yes, I understand preparations > all; however, I just bought a $45 Interdynamics ACP100 - R-134a Refrigerant | O'Reilly Auto Parts"All-in-1" bottle which has its own gauge, and refrigerant.

But more importantly, does anyone know where the low pressure port is?? I've been looking for it for hours and have a few ideas but not sure. Pictures included would be much appreciated as I hope to do this by tomorrow. Thank you everyone!

 

[kwtoxman]

If it is low on refrigerant, it likely has a leak. A shop pressure test would be better before possibly throwing away refrigerant.

 

[Mehran333]

If it is low on refrigerant, it likely has a leak. A shop pressure test would be better before possibly throwing away refrigerant.

Well the item I bought says it "seals leaks" so I'm not sure how well it works.. but am willing to give it a try.

*Still looking for location of the low pressure port*

 

[ChopTop]

If it is low on refrigerant, it likely has a leak. A shop pressure test would be better before possibly throwing away refrigerant.

Ditto.

If memory serves correct the A/C unit was shared from the Chevy Colorado and most say it can get too cold due to Kappa cabin space being smaller than the Colorado cabin space.

Before adding the differential addiditive you probably should first check to see if recall work was performed. Any GM dealer can run the VIN to verify if it's been performed.

Also, make sure you read the do and don't for Kappa owners.

 

[TX08manualGXP]

Welcome aboard. what year is your solstice and how many miles do you have on it. My 06 only blows cold if I have the temp on the lowest setting. I figure it's probably low on freon but the compressor is not cycling on and off that much. I figure it's probably just the Texas heat so I'm not too worried. If yours is not blowing cold then you have a problem and I'd get a cheap hose kit and check it. 1 can should be all you need. $15. the low side port is over on the passengers side and is the only size port that will fir your can. Keep an eye on the gauge and make sure not to over fill. you may need a second person to rev the throttle a bit to help it charge. good luck. and what part of Texas are you in?

 

[TX08manualGXP]

333,
I've been pretty lucky with body work and it doesn't look like anything is dented exept maybe the hood. is most of the white stuff paint from your house? I'd try getting all that off first and then smooth it out with Urethane bumper repair. it's a 2 part epoxy that is sandable and somewhat flexible. then do your primer, base and clear and you should be good.

 

[The_Ghost]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the pics he posted of the fuel regulator/high pressure fuel pump?

 

[TX08manualGXP]

I thought #2 was the fuel inlet as well.

 

[Mehran333]

Sorry for the long wait - Boy's gotta sleep sometime

@The_Ghost: no clue I was just wondering why mine was rusty/corroded with that tanish color.

@ChopTop + kwtoxman: I will decide to go to O'Riley's once more today to borrow a pressure gauge and check out the PSI and if it needs actually additional refrigerant. Need to go there anyways to see if they have the differential Slip.

@TX08manualGXP: I live in Katy, TX. Currently have a 2007 Pontiac Solstice and the mileage is 24,031. And I understand the whole Texas heat, cooling and all; however, my car's AC does work, it does get warmer turning the dial, it's just not cold as other typical cars with AC with the temperature set to the coolest. *On the note about my hit* Yeah I was thinking of just sanding/buffering the spot clean and then doing the coats of paint. I mean I do have a crack and the whole bumper is a little flimsy (due to it?) but overall I do not believe it is worth (I would say) $1,000-$2,000 to replace the whole front bumper for a small crack on a starter car for a college freshman. I actually plan on learning a lot about cars so I can do it all myself and never go to a mechanic except for parts, and not for long as well.

Thanks everyone, hopefully it is just the Freon levels (haha SolNut, your short yet effective answer). Will report the results tonight after school/air cools down a bit.

 

[Mehran333]

Well I decided to take it into the hands of a professional with a can of my Freon in hopes of a quick repair.... ended up being my compressor is faulty and a new compressor would cost $467.96 and the Receiver 1st Design is $65.28 (from this auto-shop), will continue to keep looking as I've made fixing my bumper my #1 priority right now..

Will driving on a faulty/bad compressor cause problems to my engine/car? It shouldn't be longer than a month (hopefully), but it's still been a few months I've used it. So how bad are the dangers of using a "bad" compressor? And any tips on installing the compressor myself?

 

[The_Ghost]

Chances are, it's going bad. It's probably not bad enough yet to seize. You probably have a valve that's mangled. As long as you don't use your A/C and you hear no other noise, you should be okay. However, if there is noise with it off, it's just a matter of time before it seizes. If it seizes it will destroy the belt and who knows what with it.

I had a Plymouth Laser (2.0L turbo) and I seized my compressor so bad, I melted the guts and the rubber high temperature bladder caught fire. Luckily I was pulling in my driveway as I noticed and grabbed the fire extinguisher from the garage. The tech the replaced it said I had to heat it to a minimum of 2500 degrees to get it to melt and catch fire. Which would make sense because I was doing about 60mph right up to about 2 minutes before it caught fire. So, just to let you know, if it gets hot enough, it can catch fire! Oh...that bill was $1400 back in 1995.

 

[The_Ghost]

Also, get a second opinion on the A/C. If it was working, I don't know how it could be bad.... But, maybe someone with A/C knowledge can chime in....