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I swear....y’all are hilarious. Too many times I get on here just to read the banter and laugh!!!! I guess us Sol owners are just a little different. I feel like it might be similar to Bill Engvall explaining 15 Degrees Off Cool.
 

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Update

I got the size correct. The test print last night did not complete because one of the heads was jammed. I cleared everything this morning and it is half way through a three hour print cycle using water soluble support material. Once I get it out will see how it turns out cosmetically. And will see about the shape. I have not tried yet to make the size match, wanted to get a viable print first, then can worry about the sizing. More to come.
 

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first test print (that worked) It is very transparent. Since it is curved (banana shape) the middle prints close to flat and on the glass while the ends are printed on support material. The support material causes roughness to the surface. I used water soluble support material and it comes off nicely, but the roughness remains. I sanded one end, then polished it and put a couple of coats of clear on it. It comes out smooth on the surface but optically the imperfections resulting from the support material remain. They break up the light and are visible. I will resize it again, its now a bit too large, and do another test print. I will then try to polish it more to see if I can get the imperfections out of the ends.

Even with these imperfections, the end result is quite functional. I am thinking about treating the ends with custom graphics either embedded or put on the surface. Could have a nice appearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Actually that came out pretty damned cool! The layering of the printer kind of mimics the faceting of the original lens! Let me know if any size tweaks need to be done or if it's still helpful to flip it's orientation.

Also - if any graphics (other than Punisher of course) would be desirable - I can punch that out fairly quickly if they're not too complex. (Obviously, I already have the Punisher graphic done - would just need to scale it and emboss it on the model.)
 

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I am having significant problems printing it. I am using the hydrofill and once I do a print, the hydrofill binds up the print head and its a pain - as in drilling, dissembling and heating the head to get it cleaned out for the next print.

I am in the process of cleaning out the second head but it will take me a couple of days.

I flipped the part over so its top up. This is to get the support imperfections on the inside of the surface and leave the outside nice and smooth. I think it will work well but it will take me a while to get it done.
 

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Never give up, never surrender!

Maybe print it vertically - so the curve looks like a smiley or a frown perpendicular to the bed - with some break-off tabs? I'm not a printing expert, so that maybe useless or obvious. :)
 

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I bought a spare light assembly and worked with it to develop a "disassembly" process. I tried heat and some solvents but it appears to be impervious to those methods.

I then got out my Exacto deep saw blade and did a test cut. That seemed to work just fine and the narrowness of the cut means that reassembly using RTV or clear epoxy looks totally feasible.

Then I took it to my 18 inch industrial strength band saw. With a thin 1/2 inch blade I was able to make a nice clean cut that matched the curve of the base quite well. I used the Exacto blade to do the final cut on the overlapping end tab. See the pictures.

I am taking this along with CWs file to my local part printer and see about getting them to print some clear replacement covers.

More to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hey Rob. Did you get anywhere with this? I still have my lens sitting on my desk at work. Wondering if we have more work to do or if I can put my wife's car back together. lol
 

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OK
I got some test prints.

For clear ABS - they look white but transmit light readily as shown in the pictures - he is suggesting a price of $50 for a pair. You can get custom lettering or graphics made into the print at a nominal labor cost. These will be the top of the light and you will need to attach it to your existing light base (glue, weld, tape?) to make a full light unit.

Alternatively you can get a "clear" lens printed using a totally different method for $300 a pair. Basically the $50 print uses a standard filament in a high end commercial machine while the $300 pair uses a light on fluid method that makes a part appear like it was cast - no printing lines. Again, you can talk with them about any custom work you want added to these.

Take a look at the pictures. I am having a set of them in ABS with PUNISHER (the right way up) in them. Then I will paint the text punisher red. Should look very nice.

If you are interested or just want to talk with them, let me know and I will get you their email.


Some of the prints in the picture are test prints with TPE and are not as good as the ABS test prints, but I included them because they show the text overlaid on the part well. In my opinion the ABS version, while not a cast part is certainly good enough for me to put on the Punisher. Let us know what you think. >:)
 

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