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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I never know when the top will be released to go down. I’ve changed the battery in the remote control which didn’t happen. The button in the glove box doesn’t work all the time either. This is an intermittent problem. I just never know when the wings will release and the trunk will pop open. I know how to use the tool on the wings to release them and also how to pull the tire well covers off and push the trunk carpet back to get to the trunk release BUT I want a better solution to this problem and why it works intermittently. I’m thinking there is a bad connection somewhere. Has anybody here had this problem and short of replacing the mechanism that operates the releases is there something that needs to be tightened up? It’s a 2007 GXP….24,000 miles on it.
 

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Both the key fob buttons and the glove box trunk release button have had a history of "wonkiness". My '07 glove box button is still temperamental. I found a site on-line that sells a metallic layer to go between the circuit board and the buttons in the remote to correct the issue if it is there. (The conductive material on the underside of the buttons can wear out.)

You may want to take apart the fob and examine it. There are two solder joints from the battery to the circuit board that can come loose. This isn't likely your problem as one or the other will fail and the fob will not work at all for doors or trunk. BUT, while you're in there, you may want to take some isopropyl alcohol and clean the underside of the buttons and see if that works.

Let us know how it turns out.
 

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Do you hear the sound of the opening mechanism being activated every time, even when the buttresses ("wings") don't go up?

I ask this because there's two different issues that might be happening.

1.) Situation one is when your trunk opener solenoid isn't being activated every time you push the button on the remote or inside the glove compartment; in this case you have a bad contact issue on both the remote and the glovebox button. Taking the glovebox button out is a pain in the rear but it's what I did - took it out from the glove compartment, took it apart and cleaned it up good (filed away at the bule-greenish corrosion points) then put a small dab of dielectric silicon grease in between the contact points. Now it works every time. Contrary to belief, dielecric grease will not prevent the contacts from working, it will however keep moisture away from the gold plated contact points and thus they won't oxidise. As for the remote, you can take it apart and resolder the battery contacts, and buy online a replacement rubber membrane, doing these two fixes will make it new again.

2) If, however, you can hear the trunk opening mechanism make its sound every time you push the button, but sometimes the buttresses won't release even though the solenoid is working; then you have a different issue and has to do with the cables that release the buttresses. I never had this issue so don't remember the exact steps to fix it but it's described somewhere on this forum.
 

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The dash trunk release switch generally works well but they are subject to various forms of damage that can cause reliability issues. If the glove compartment is removed for any reason, for example to service the airbag or the heater controls, its very challenging to remove the trunk release switch without damaging it. The design allows the button to be pulled off accidentally and then pressed back into position. As a result the button looks good but is in fact internally damaged. It will generally work intermittently, just enough to make it seem like its ok when in fact it needs to be replaced.

You can source a new switch and have it installed by your dealer. Just make sure they know what they are doing. :)

 

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Yeah it really is challenging to take out. I could oinly figure how after I had taken the boomerang apart to fix the fog light switch which was also failing. Once I saw where the retaining tabs were located on the foglight switch, I was able to remove the trunk release one, this took a pinstaking 15 minutes until I got the hang of it.
In my case both switches had corrosion points on the gold plated contact pad inside. They were small compared to the pad's surface. But the problem is that the corrosion points kinda got swollen so they would act as a stop between the contact pad and the rubber "pushable" part of the switch. This had happened to both trunk and foglight switches. I guess the PO's kept the car in a high relative humidity place .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Often, replacing the rubber button pad will fix the issue with the remote. The conductive layer on the inside of the buttons can wear over time with some buttons wearing more than others.

2 New Remote Key Keyless FOB Replacement Rubber Button Pad 15252034 22733523 | eBay
You were soooooooooo right. I ordered new fobs and took the circuit board out of the old fob…..put in the new fob and it worked immediately and every time!
To fix the glove box button I bought a can of Electrical contact cleaner. I sprayed the back of the button using the little straw that came with the cleaner. Had to maneuver that straw to the back of the button and hold it there while I pushed the button again and again. It worked. And it works every time. I checked it on and off for a couple of days to make sure it wasn’t just intermitten. You don’t have to remove and replace the button….spray it with Electrical contact cleaner…10.00 a can at the auto parts store!
 

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Well done. In my case I cleaned the trunk release button like you did first (maybe I wasn't as thorough) and it stopped working again later on. If that problem happens to you down the line, it still might not be necessary to buy a new button. You can take your current button out of the glovebox, disassemble it, and clean its internal contacts as I described above. Fingers crossed you won't need to do it though as the real pain is taking the button out of the glovebox the first time.
 

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if you use Water Displacer #40, it will displace water and leave a light film of oil that can result in increased connectivity but the light oil film will eventually evaporate and you may lose some of the improved connectivity. Reapply the WD40 and work the switch may clean it up for a long term fix.
 
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