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I just got back from my local tire fixer who would not touch my 2009 GPX Solstice rear leaking tire. I took it to the dealer a few months back and they tore up the wheel well when fixing a front tire. I need help. I want a user friendly way to jack up my car and the more I read the worse it gets. Do I need to buy inserts for those holes front and back and if so where do I get them? Apparently they are not the same for for front and back, or are they? What jack will be best..yes, money is an issue as I am retired so am looking for a safe inexpensive(LOL) way to jack up my car so I can take tire for flat repair.

:)

Quick answer those are the same slotted holes but you are not actually supposed to use the front ones (though it's helpful sometimes).

So I will describe here if you still want to do that:

Joker what I did was buy used hockey pucks and a machine threaded eyelet at Home Depot with enough thread to get through the puck with a fender washer and nut. Then I drilled the puck in the center and assembled the eyelet through the puck. Additionally I cut about a third off the puck. That cut when lifting should be oriented to the outside and not touch the fender. Here is a link to another picture and post for a guy that modified BMW jack pads to give you an idea of what to cut on the hockey pucks.



Now just slip the eyelet into the groove on the frame. Turn it 1/2 turn or so as it hangs for you orientated as I described, and raise the car with a jack under the puck.

The jack I have was purchased in Walmart and it is a Black Jack LOW PROFILE jack.

But if you are trying to get the front wheel off technically according to the GM diagram you are supposed to use the front frame "pads" a bit further in and further forward (not the outside ones you mention). They are pictured here somewhere in a previous thread. They have two larger holes in them and are way wider than the outside frame. Of you jack in that GM approved spot I'd use a small thin piece of wood because the large holes seem to be right about where most round home floor jack pad surfaces hit and it's been known to deform that chassis metal. The wood just evens it out a bit.

BTW if you do use the front slot near the fender edge using the pucks etc., it will lift up the whole side of the car. Handy for a two wheel pull off like painting calipers etc..

The pucks were a few bucks at a used sporting goods store (I have 4 and bring them and the printed instructions with pictures on how to lift the car to every service appointment) and the eyelets about the same for a couple if I recall. The Jack was about $50 at Wally World. Hope this helps.

(Just checked Wallmart and they have a Torin Lo Pro jack for $58.00)

Solo Dio
08 Solstice GXP Brazen / Inferno Orange
 

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I use the jack pads the square metal devises with two holes in the center that are located behind the front wheels they are the yellow highlighted area in SolstOpel's post I also use hockey pucks .When I raise my car I use a low profile jack with a piece of 1x1/2 x7 x 30 " womanized wood ( a deck step) that I cut for this purpose.I position the jack under the center of the door ( I have the step marked at the center so I can align it) go in about 12 inches there is an indentation on the underside ((if you look at SolstOpels diagram you can see this and a set of lines you want to make sure you clear ) that I straddle then I end up lifting one side at a time . This allows me to place my jack stands with the hockey pucks on them under the jacking pads I have used this method for years with no problems and no damage to my car I hope I have been clear about this .
 

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I have received the pucks and they fit perfectly. The magnets are a great feature.

I will post some photos / movie tomorrow.
 

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Exchange rates and fees depend on your bank.

Day rate for my bank is:
Buy 1.11850
Sell 1.13450

My bank charges no fees. But they can be as high as 10%. When I have to choose between my bank, credit card and pay pal the best rates are from my bank.

I have Euro account in Europe and a Dollar account in the US. So I am in the lucky position that I can always pick what is the cheapest.
 

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The magnets are a good idea. I may take two of the BMW pucks I bought and bond some magnets into them.
 

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Same for me, it has been 8+ years since I put them on.
 

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The first two are from the Solstice and Sky service manual.

The third pic is a picture of the lift points described in the manual in use.

The 4th pic shows the jack stand points used by most of the vendors on the forum.
Shheew! Nine pages and this is still as clear as mud! This post (#122 on this page) helped me the most. SolstOpel's post right after was helpful too. His diagram seems more useful to show lifting points (yellow) and jack stand points (red).

I've got to raise the front of my car today to replace this shattered inner wheel liner:




I think I'm going to paint a big yellow dot on the undercarriage for the lifting points so when I go to the tire shop I can easily tell them where the lift pads need to be placed.
 

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Shheew! Nine pages and this is still as clear as mud!

I think I'm going to paint a big yellow dot on the undercarriage for the lifting points so when I go to the tire shop I can easily tell them where the lift pads need to be placed.
Good idea! There has always been some controversy over the correct lifting points, and the correct jacking points. They are different. Anyway, good luck!

:thumbs:

.
 

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I think part of the controversy/confusion is the terms JACK and LIFT. Until I read this post those terms were interchangeable... "Lift the car up on the jack/Jack it up." The muddy terminology would have been somewhat clearer if GM had started out using "lifting points" and "jack stand points" and if they had provided a clear diagram to begin with!
 

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Shheew! Nine pages and this is still as clear as mud! This post (#122 on this page) helped me the most. SolstOpel's post right after was helpful too. His diagram seems more useful to show lifting points (yellow) and jack stand points (red).

QUOTE]

Here is the problem.

There are only FOUR hard parts on the bottom of the car. The four slots where the car is tied down for shipment. The rest of the bottom of the car ranges from soft to really soft.

To lift the car on a lift, use ONLY the slots and PUCKS. The slots will NOT deform and the pucks will protect the body from the lifting devices.


BUT
If you lift the car with a floor jack in your garage for example and want to put the car on jack stands, then you have challenges.

LIFT it using the forward slot and you don't have any place to put the jack stand to hold the car up in the air. So you use the front "lifting pad" which is behind the front wheels. The metal piece with two large holes cut into it. Its marked as lift here on the drawing. The problem is that this pad WILL DEFORM and bend into a pretzel shape if you use it more than a few times and you MUST use something to spread the load across the "lift point" because a jack stand will bend the crap out of it over time.

When you lift the rear of the car using the rear slot, you now have no place to put the jack stand. So you end up putting it under the suspension tie point or somewhere worse.

My recommendation is that you lift the car from the front tie down slot as high as you can get it, then put one jack stand under the rear slot and one under the front lift point (yes the weak one) Use pads!. Slowly lower the car till its on the two stands, then go around and lift it again from the other side FRONT slot. Place the stands under the rear slot and the front lift point and leave the jack under tension so the car is resting on the four stands and the jack. Ideally us two jacks so they are holding much of the load off the front pads, but there is enough weight on the pad / jack stands to keep everything safe in the event of a jack failure.

This puts the rear stands in the right place an minimizes negative impacts on the front lift points (which are NOT)

Its much better to get a quickjack and lift the car from the slots but not everyone can do that.

Just for information, my front "lift points" were basically destroyed by two years of repeated trips into the air on shop LIFTS. According to GM this is how its supposed to be done but there is plenty of experience that says the front "lift points" are weak.

Thus my fabricating shoes.
 

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.. also, Rob, are the "lifting pads" the same place where the "pucks" are inserted? I can't tell between "slots", "pads", "pucks" and other terms. Pics showing where the pucks should be inserted would be good.
 
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