This will be my 1st post I am in need of some major help. I will list questions with numbers just really need some help
October of 2012 I bought a Black GXP Turbo Solstice from a dealer in Columbus, very cheap was 14,700 with 58,000. Test drive car was overheating they told me it just needed coolant. Being back in n Findlay Ohio car overheated again except when I floored it, I got check valves installed. Car worked like a champ. Acouple months later I got the GMPP upgrade 300hp/ 340 trq package installed, this was the start of massive problems .
Around 63k I had gas in my oil I had driven it like that for several thousand miles didn't even know til the oil change, fuel pump went out. This along with high temp plugs set me back 1200. My next mod was r1 concepts drilled and slotted rotors a whole set 200 bux on black Friday, they rust easily but even with regular autozone pads stopping has greatly approved. July of 13, My airbag sensor went out and my driver side seatbelt wouldn't retract, thus another 1200 fix. I bought Performance autowerks intercooler pipes and CAI as well as a Forge bpv. Passenger side pipe wasn't even close got 2 stories from them with pipe being short. 1 man said yeah several of our kits didn't fit because we used different turbo while the other man insisted it was still good. When I went to try and install the pipe myself I noticed a lil oil in the pipe on passenger side right out of the turbo, cleaned it up and put the oem back on. I sent the pipes back and never got my credit card refunded no big deal really I forgot to put insurance on it so this being my fault. Plus in my opinion the Autowerks pipes are complete garbage with fluctuation of the pipes going on with 20 psi and not using the stock brackets. I don't know how many times I blew off the pipes and had to pull over to fix ( had T Clamps).
Well this November I ordered Solo Performance Street Race kit with high flow cat on Black Friday. I got a code right off the bat 1st day I had it Catalytic threshold met. Rechecked pipes no leaks. I also been getting a MAF sensor error and engine light I have it reset and sometimes no light but only 2 psi limp mode. Throws a misfire with it as well. 1. Due to wrong MAF input?
This week I had to go back to dealer to fix the dash they reinstalled poorly (from seatbelt fix) and he told me I was burning oil real bad. Burning light blue under fluorescent light in the chevy dealership workshop. My pipes have dark black soot all over them and if I put my hand over the pipe while running its black within 10 seconds. Dealership is telling me I need a new turbo or input seal, but boost is back up to 20psi and it runs like a bat out of hell somedays. Fastest time Ive ever ran was 12.788 so I have no idea if it has been dinked with before I got it. I read this board when the engine overheated the 1st month I had it to find the check valve issue and now I am posting this for some help. I don't make much and the repairs are killing me. ( getting the simple bolton's are causing massive problems. Sometimes even when engine downrevs it takes 2-3 seconds to down rev from 3k to 800 rpm while In neutral.
2. Could a pcv, check valve and pvc hose with oil catch can fix my issue? I read somewhere on another kappa site that would fix it. Car has been ran 10k miles on tune and now its engine light non stop and is non responsive. :cryin: its a 07 with 68k on it. 3. Can anyone give me the OEM numbers to these 3 pieces? so I can go buy the parts to fix it if that's it im buy a ddm catch can atm. Sorry for long sentences and giant paragraph im so upset its my daily driver and I hope theres no significant damage. Chevy dealership hasn't even heard of this catch can or where it would go https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...0923785888887.442956.500983886&type=3&theater that pic was at 62k miles