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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)


This will be my 1st post I am in need of some major help. I will list questions with numbers just really need some help :(

October of 2012 I bought a Black GXP Turbo Solstice from a dealer in Columbus, very cheap was 14,700 with 58,000. Test drive car was overheating they told me it just needed coolant. Being back in n Findlay Ohio car overheated again except when I floored it, I got check valves installed. Car worked like a champ. Acouple months later I got the GMPP upgrade 300hp/ 340 trq package installed, this was the start of massive problems :(.

Around 63k I had gas in my oil I had driven it like that for several thousand miles didn't even know til the oil change, fuel pump went out. This along with high temp plugs set me back 1200. My next mod was r1 concepts drilled and slotted rotors a whole set 200 bux on black Friday, they rust easily but even with regular autozone pads stopping has greatly approved. July of 13, My airbag sensor went out and my driver side seatbelt wouldn't retract, thus another 1200 fix. I bought Performance autowerks intercooler pipes and CAI as well as a Forge bpv. Passenger side pipe wasn't even close got 2 stories from them with pipe being short. 1 man said yeah several of our kits didn't fit because we used different turbo while the other man insisted it was still good. When I went to try and install the pipe myself I noticed a lil oil in the pipe on passenger side right out of the turbo, cleaned it up and put the oem back on. I sent the pipes back and never got my credit card refunded no big deal really I forgot to put insurance on it so this being my fault. Plus in my opinion the Autowerks pipes are complete garbage with fluctuation of the pipes going on with 20 psi and not using the stock brackets. I don't know how many times I blew off the pipes and had to pull over to fix ( had T Clamps).


Well this November I ordered Solo Performance Street Race kit with high flow cat on Black Friday. I got a code right off the bat 1st day I had it Catalytic threshold met. Rechecked pipes no leaks. I also been getting a MAF sensor error and engine light I have it reset and sometimes no light but only 2 psi limp mode. Throws a misfire with it as well. 1. Due to wrong MAF input?


This week I had to go back to dealer to fix the dash they reinstalled poorly (from seatbelt fix) and he told me I was burning oil real bad. Burning light blue under fluorescent light in the chevy dealership workshop. My pipes have dark black soot all over them and if I put my hand over the pipe while running its black within 10 seconds. Dealership is telling me I need a new turbo or input seal, but boost is back up to 20psi and it runs like a bat out of hell somedays. Fastest time Ive ever ran was 12.788 so I have no idea if it has been dinked with before I got it. I read this board when the engine overheated the 1st month I had it to find the check valve issue and now I am posting this for some help. I don't make much and the repairs are killing me. ( getting the simple bolton's are causing massive problems. Sometimes even when engine downrevs it takes 2-3 seconds to down rev from 3k to 800 rpm while In neutral.


2. Could a pcv, check valve and pvc hose with oil catch can fix my issue? I read somewhere on another kappa site that would fix it. Car has been ran 10k miles on tune and now its engine light non stop and is non responsive. :cryin: its a 07 with 68k on it. 3. Can anyone give me the OEM numbers to these 3 pieces? so I can go buy the parts to fix it if that's it im buy a ddm catch can atm. Sorry for long sentences and giant paragraph im so upset its my daily driver and I hope theres no significant damage. Chevy dealership hasn't even heard of this catch can or where it would go :( https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...0923785888887.442956.500983886&type=3&theater that pic was at 62k miles
 

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Catch can is a DDM Works item one of our supporting vendors and they have it on sale as part of their 12 days of Christmas promotion .If you go on their site and pull this item up read the installation instructions it gives you a heads up as to the problems that cures.Just wondering reading your post you start off saying the car had overheating problems on the test drive would that not send up a red flag as to the condition of the car?
 

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If you have air in the cooling system that could be some of the overheating problem. if you have a compressor and a blow gun atttachment, unhook the hose on the right of the coolant tank, stick the hose in a clean empty water bottle and shoot a few small bursts of air in the tank where the hose was connected. if the water does not flow smoothly in the bottle, you have air in the tank. took me a few tries to get it all out and I ended up needing more coolant even though the tank was full at the beginning. once the water bottle gets about full, you can pour that back in the tank. just pay attention not to run the tank dry.
 

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Maybe it needed coolant like the man said?! Only later the check valves were installed and that was the issue.
So if the dealer knew it needed coolant why would he not put it in before he put the car up for sale? Did you buy it from a GM dealer because it should have had some type of warranty.But all that's water over the dam I think from what I have read that the catch can is a good investment and hopefully will cure some of your issues good luck ! and welcome to the forum.
 

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Code with HF CAT sounds like the installer either failed to put in the extender for the sensor, or installed it in the wrong place
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So if the dealer knew it needed coolant why would he not put it in before he put the car up for sale? Did you buy it from a GM dealer because it should have had some type of warranty.But all that's water over the dam I think from what I have read that the catch can is a good investment and hopefully will cure some of your issues good luck ! and welcome to the forum.
It was a chevy dealer. came with a 30 day warranty in which they refused to service it. I called GM told them what happened and we had a 3 way conference call with GM rep and dealer. Dealer started cussing at the GM rep and whatnot said they would pay the Findlay dealer to fix it. My dealer here in Findlay hasn't been paid to this day and those service managers had got fired where I bought it.
 

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If you have air in the cooling system that could be some of the overheating problem. if you have a compressor and a blow gun atttachment, unhook the hose on the right of the coolant tank, stick the hose in a clean empty water bottle and shoot a few small bursts of air in the tank where the hose was connected. if the water does not flow smoothly in the bottle, you have air in the tank. took me a few tries to get it all out and I ended up needing more coolant even though the tank was full at the beginning. once the water bottle gets about full, you can pour that back in the tank. just pay attention not to run the tank dry.
I'm curious about your method here. I am in the middle of refilling my cooling system, and am having problems getting coolant to spew out of the nipple from the front of the head (an indication that the system has been bled correctly).

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying here. Can you elaborate on the role of the water bottle. I'm not getting it.

Thanks
 

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all the water bottle does is catch the coolant that will come out of the hose. this is the hose on the right of the tank with the green clip on it. someone else tole me about this burp method and id was fast and easy. when you shoot your air in the tank, the resorvior cap needs to be on and tight. I gave mine a couple of small one second bursts with the thing turned down to about 30psi. there's a couple second delay and then coolant will spew into the bottle. the first 2 times I could tell I had a lot of air. my tank was almost empty but I only had a little in my water bottle. I emptied the bottle back into the tank and added more coolant and did it again. this time, more coolant came out but there was still ait in it. then by the 3rd time, I had a good solid stream of coolant and I knew it was done but did it once more for good measure. Before I did it, the coolant tank was full but I ended up needing about a quart more afterwards. PM me if you need more info.
 

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Get the DDM CC and it should fix the oil issue.
As far as the SOlo exhaust problem you need to give them a call to get the O2 extender.
 

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2. Could a pcv, check valve and pvc hose with oil catch can fix my issue? I read somewhere on another kappa site that would fix it. Car has been ran 10k miles on tune and now its engine light non stop and is non responsive. :cryin: its a 07 with 68k on it. 3. Can anyone give me the OEM numbers to these 3 pieces? so I can go buy the parts to fix it if that's it im buy a ddm catch can atm. Sorry for long sentences and giant paragraph im so upset its my daily driver and I hope theres no significant damage. Chevy dealership hasn't even heard of this catch can or where it would go :( https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...0923785888887.442956.500983886&type=3&theater that pic was at 62k miles
Frankly I'm not sure I understand what your problem questions are... a bit difficult to tell the forest from the trees.

Still, taking the one issue I can see, that of oil in your turbo line, I would suggest you simply check (and clean if reqd) the one-way valve in the pipe from the middle of the cam-cover into the air intake, the blue-circled valve in pipe A, below:



I don't agree with LV that an OCC will solve all your ills for this. It can catch the 'leaking' oil PROVIDED you have it installed in the correct pipe that is leaking the oil. But even so, that will mask the issue of what causing the oil blow-by in the first place.

Check the valve. If it's gummed-up (up can both blow and suck air through it) then clean the gum out with MAF cleaner or just alcohol, until the one-way action is working again, and replace.

See also: http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/...ouldnt-run-oil-catch-can-occ-lnf-kappa-71640/ for more instruction on removing the pipe and valve.
 

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"Downrev" issue is normal characteristic of the LNF motor. As far as service goes, find a dealer that used to be a Pontiac dealer in your area. These cars aren't your every day vehicles to fix. I've said it many a-time before....these cars because of some of the repair steps are like little Ferrari's. There are specific ways to do things, and if those ways aren't done properly, it causes more issues.

As far as your CEL, it's your O2 sensor.... Did you go to someone that knew what they were doing when they installed the cat and exhaust? Most shops won't. You need an extender on the O2 sensor after the cat. That will cure the CEL issue. Or should.
 

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Listen to Tomato....he's the resident expert here!!
 

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TS being the resident expert here and I do mean that with all do respect I would like your opinion on this .I recently installed a Hann turbo on my 2.4 and have been thinking about adding a DDM catch can as a preventative measure ,my thought being that the 2.0 motor was built with turbocharging in mind and had safeguards built in ie: the check valve .Any input would be appreciated Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well the Check valve is gummy so that is all I should need correct? I just wanted to add a ddm works OCC for good measure soup! The engine code today read threshold met chamber one which I believe is the upstream 02 sensor? simple fix?
 
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