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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 base model solstice convertible, with 39192 miles on it. when i bought it, it had 23000..In thirteen years I haven't driven it much, a couple of weeks ago I decided to take it out of the shed, clean it up and sell it. I drove it about 5 miles and the check engine light came on and it stopped running. I waited a few minutes and it started up but went into limp mode.I drove back home at 25 mph and hooked up my code reader and got a fuel filter clog code, since then I have replaced the fuel filter, air cleaner, fuel press regulator, fuel tank press sensor, maf sensor, map sensor, in tank fuel pump, and now I am getting a tps code. every time I have changed a part, the problem seems to be fixed, for a few miles, the last time the codes all cleared and it ran great for 52 miles. according to the auto parts store it doesn't have a tps, anyone got ideas.
 

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That would be my suggestion also, how old is the battery? Have you checked the Battery voltage? If it is 12.5V or better, I would clean both the battery connections & the engine ground for starters.
 
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Usually you will get multiple unrelated codes when you have a dead battery....although I have to agree in this instance...replace the battery and see what happens...it's less money then what you already spent.
 
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without knowing the actual DTC's that have been set it is hard to tell you what could possibly be going on. The combination of things you have replaced seems odd as well. The car is not going to have systematic failures like that. It appears like you are problem solving by replacing parts and this could be from information you are being given from a person that works at a parts store.

Our vehicles defiantly have a throttle position sensor. This goes in line with what I was saying about incorrect information being given to you from the parts store cashier. If an OBD code scanner kicks out a code for bank 1 running lean and another code for the O2 bank 1 sensor 1 out of range a parts store is going to tell you that you have a bad 02 sensor. There is a high possibility that this is not the problem. I would tell you to tighten up the clamps on your intake pipe to start off with. This has no cost involved and if it solves the issue you just saved some money. I diagnose a problem. I do not use the cars computer to tell me what parts are bad. I will have you test the part if you have any tools that may be needed to test it to make sure the part is in fact no good. A great example is an O2 sensor that is reporting a 0 value to the cars computer. This could be a bad sensor, It can also be that the wiring has moved and it's resting against the exhaust which melted the insulation. A lot of times this can be easily checked by giving the tail pipe a kick.

So lets start from the beginning and walk through what has happened one step at a time. Since you have replaced a lot of parts already I will want a list of parts that were replaced. That list will need to be in the order in which they were replaced. If you can I will also need to know the DTC code(s) that caused the replacement of that part.

I am confident that getting your vehicle sorted is not going to be an issue. It may take some time to do because of the nature of help being given on a forum so please be patient. I have a pretty good success rate for narrowing down an issue and giving the information that is needed to fix the problem with as little cost as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
without knowing the actual DTC's that have been set it is hard to tell you what could possibly be going on. The combination of things you have replaced seems odd as well. The car is not going to have systematic failures like that. It appears like you are problem solving by replacing parts and this could be from information you are being given from a person that works at a parts store.

Our vehicles defiantly have a throttle position sensor. This goes in line with what I was saying about incorrect information being given to you from the parts store cashier. If an OBD code scanner kicks out a code for bank 1 running lean and another code for the O2 bank 1 sensor 1 out of range a parts store is going to tell you that you have a bad 02 sensor. There is a high possibility that this is not the problem. I would tell you to tighten up the clamps on your intake pipe to start off with. This has no cost involved and if it solves the issue you just saved some money. I diagnose a problem. I do not use the cars computer to tell me what parts are bad. I will have you test the part if you have any tools that may be needed to test it to make sure the part is in fact no good. A great example is an O2 sensor that is reporting a 0 value to the cars computer. This could be a bad sensor, It can also be that the wiring has moved and it's resting against the exhaust which melted the insulation. A lot of times this can be easily checked by giving the tail pipe a kick.

So lets start from the beginning and walk through what has happened one step at a time. Since you have replaced a lot of parts already I will want a list of parts that were replaced. That list will need to be in the order in which they were replaced. If you can I will also need to know the DTC code(s) that caused the replacement of that part.

I am confident that getting your vehicle sorted is not going to be an issue. It may take some time to do because of the nature of help being given on a forum so please be patient. I have a pretty good success rate for narrowing down an issue and giving the information that is needed to fix the problem with as little cost as possible.
thanks for the idea, I'm old school and not used to this electronic age, I tested the battery it has 11.2 volts, after charging for over 12 hours it only came up to 11.9. It will start the engine just fine, but I last replaced it in Sept, 2011, so I think you are right, It's time to buy a new one. May take me a day or two to change it, because I have to take the fender off to do, and I'm old and things just aren't as pressing as they used to be. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 

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2006 Solstice, 2.4l L4 NA
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Often, when a DTC is set, it prevents other pending codes from being shown, so you have to fix the faults one by one just to get the next code to show up, unless you put your scan tool in live mode. Then you can get a better picture of what's going on while the engine is running.

Also, the first thing I thought when you said the fuel filter was clogged was, "drain the gas tank!" But given the price of gas these days, I might just drain some into a pint jar and check for water and other contaminants. When a car sits for a long time, suspended water settles out and vapor condenses out of the air and it all sinks to the bottom where it gets sucked out in one big slug that can cause no end of trouble. The first thing it does is saturate the fuel filter and prevent fuel from passing through.

That battery is a pain to replace. If I were you I'd hook up a jumper battery, if you have one, just to see if that's the author of your woes. I've had lots of batteries go dead, but I've never seen it cause this cascade of trouble codes you're seeing. Then again, it's ten years old, so it doesn't owe you anything. I might go out of my way to find another one just like it.
 

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Often, when a DTC is set, it prevents other pending codes from being shown, so you have to fix the faults one by one just to get the next code to show up, unless you put your scan tool in live mode. Then you can get a better picture of what's going on while the engine is running.

Also, the first thing I thought when you said the fuel filter was clogged was, "drain the gas tank!" But given the price of gas these days, I might just drain some into a pint jar and check for water and other contaminants. When a car sits for a long time, suspended water settles out and vapor condenses out of the air and it all sinks to the bottom where it gets sucked out in one big slug that can cause no end of trouble. The first thing it does is saturate the fuel filter and prevent fuel from passing through.

That battery is a pain to replace. If I were you I'd hook up a jumper battery, if you have one, just to see if that's the author of your woes. I've had lots of batteries go dead, but I've never seen it cause this cascade of trouble codes you're seeing. Then again, it's ten years old, so it doesn't owe you anything. I might go out of my way to find another one just like it.
There actually aren't many trouble codes that won't appear right away. However, the most I think I've seen here was 7 and that was because the battery was low. You can usually read all CEL codes immediately unless one is over-shadowing another, which is very rare.

Now it can "pend" certain codes, but most of those are on the GXP. A pended code means that it has detected an issue for a shorter period of time then is needed to set a CEL, but if it happens xx more times or for the required time, it will then set the CEL. A "pending" code will also limit performance a bit, but not to the extent a CEL will limit it.

As far as a weak battery goes, these cars do all sorts of weird things with a weak battery. From throwing multiple unrelated CELs to not letting you remove your key from the ignition to the gauges spinning in circles like the car is possessed. And if you think these cars are bad, drive a GEN6 Camaro with a slightly weak battery. The car thinks is an EV or Hybrid and tells you that you have issues with your AWD transfer case.... The electrical systems require the entire amount of energy that the battery can give them and even if they're just 0.1 volts low, what I said earlier can happen.
 

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It sounds like the newer models are… interesting. I have a 2006, like the OP, and I've never seen anything like that, even earlier this year when my battery suffered a lingering death. If I put a meter on the battery, I could watch the voltage slowly drop from almost 12 volts to less than ten. I thought something was drawing it down, but when I disconnected the cables, it showed the same behavior. But all the while, the only effect the decreasing voltage had on the car was that it reached a point where it wouldn't start without a jump. Everything else worked, and no DTCs except a cylinder 1 misfire, which turned out to be the fuel injector.

This battery, btw, was a six year old three year battery, which I thought was pretty good. Ten years is phenomenal.
 

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It sounds like the newer models are… interesting. I have a 2006, like the OP, and I've never seen anything like that, even earlier this year when my battery suffered a lingering death. If I put a meter on the battery, I could watch the voltage slowly drop from almost 12 volts to less than ten. I thought something was drawing it down, but when I disconnected the cables, it showed the same behavior. But all the while, the only effect the decreasing voltage had on the car was that it reached a point where it wouldn't start without a jump. Everything else worked, and no DTCs except a cylinder 1 misfire, which turned out to be the fuel injector.

This battery, btw, was a six year old three year battery, which I thought was pretty good. Ten years is phenomenal.
Your battery was going dead too quick to do any of the things I stated. When they lose 0.1 or 0.2 volts is when the issues start. My first was 8 years old and I replaced it just because. Then I went through 4 over the next 3 years. So when people are saying they're getting all sorts of unrelated CELs and the battery is only 2 years old, that's the first thing I tell them to do. Replace the battery. It's very, very, very common in all years of these cars.
 

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Your battery was going dead too quick to do any of the things I stated. When they lose 0.1 or 0.2 volts is when the issues start. My first was 8 years old and I replaced it just because. Then I went through 4 over the next 3 years. So when people are saying they're getting all sorts of unrelated CELs and the battery is only 2 years old, that's the first thing I tell them to do. Replace the battery. It's very, very, very common in all years of these cars.
I'll file that away for future reference, but I remain skeptical. Over 15 years and four batteries, the ECU has seen every voltage from 14.2 to 0 on many occasions, and it's never thrown a code that wasn't traceable to a defective part, except U0121, but that's another story. This sounds like bad gas to me.
 

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Battery. Been there - done that. The dealership we bought our '08 from knew it was constantly throwing codes when they got it on the lot. Buy the time we bought it, they had been chasing squirrels and were eager to get it sold. They had already replaced the ECM thinking that was the issue. They knew we were going to have trouble with it (didn't tell us) and included an extended warranty in the sale - along with dropping the final sale price by 3K to dealer cost. :cool: It test drive fine. We bought it. The wife didn't make it a half mile before it went into limp mode. They "fixed it." Three days later - limp mode - new (different) codes. Three times it threw codes. Each time something different and unrelated to the others.

Based on information shared here by other owners who experienced similar issues, I told the dealership to replace the battery - haven't had a problem since - and got a steal of a deal on a white '08 auto NA with 34K on the clock - and the wife has her very own Solstice. (It keeps her out of mine!)

This forum provides a wealth of useful information. And generally based on personal experience.
 

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Well, based on my personal experience, I have never seen a low battery cause a clogged fuel filter.

The car was sitting for an extended period.
The first problem was a clogged fuel filter.
Subsequent problems were all fuel system related, and replacing the parts fixed the problems.
And you think it's the battery?
¯\(ツ)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well, I replaced the battery and when I cranked it up,all the warning lights went out and car ran great. No codes and no problems for 168 miles. Then this morning, two miles from home it all went down again. About ready to cut a tree down on it.
 

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well, I replaced the battery and when I cranked it up,all the warning lights went out and car ran great. No codes and no problems for 168 miles. Then this morning, two miles from home it all went down again. About ready to cut a tree down on it.
What is the battery voltage now? If your generator was not charging properly you could be back in a low battery condition.
 

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Well it's been established that battery was one of your issues. Maybe you also have a fuel line issue due to old gas (it ready clogged the old filter). Or, you might have a problem with the alternator as suggested by @JohnWR or even the alternator's fusible link as diagnosed by @kgschlosser in another thread here recently - Sporadic battery light, airbag light, ABS, and...

Just please don't fell a tree over it! These cars are just too precious for that.
 

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I would also check all the ground connections again, and make sure the battery cables are tight. I could also be a bad cable, our cars are getting to the age were they can start breaking down internally.

Good luck, I hope it is something easy.
 
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Of course. Battery and/or grounding. I've solved misterious problems in a few cars of mine along the years by cleaning tightening the grounds and / or installing a new battery.
 
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