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I have installed an LS engine in my Solstice. Its quick but I also want the 2006 Cadillac CTSv Brembo brakes the 2006 Hot Rod Magazine 3 month series of articles on a similar build. They indicated they installed the brakes and talked of how well the car stopped, but didnt go into much detail on the actual build of these brakes. I have new rotors and used calipers and my current study indicates I need a 1/4” spacer between the hub and the rotor and a 1/2” spacer between the rotor snd the Solstice wheel or wheels with a 3” backset. This will necessitate at least 3/4” longer longer lugs Than stock. Any one got sny experience with this build?
 

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Someone on here I'm sure did it some years ago and made up custom bracket to make it work. Have to do some digging...
 

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RPM Motor sports offers a bolt on Brembo set up.
 

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It can be done. You would use the Cobalt SS Brembos. There is a thread if you just search Brembo I think you might find it. I know you have to change some stuff to get it to fit. Let me know how it goes....was thinking about changing mine. I work for Akebono and we supply calipers to high-end cars (McLaren, Porsche, Mercedes, Audi...to name a few). I was going to try and find one of ours that fit. I know Wilwood also makes a kit that fits our cars.
 

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Don't know if this will help but you might try to get a hold of Chuck Mallett (Mallett Performance)he had his hand in this build maybe he could offer some insight .
 

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2012 Brazen Gxp ; GMPP Tune; GMPP Suspension; GMPP Instake; DDM Backbone
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Found the thread on the Sky forum for the Plug 'n Play Brembo setup, based on Opel Astra parts. Anyone use North American Saab Rotors for a Brembo setup? Compared some dimensions and it appears that they'll bolt up. Spacers are obviously still needed for the factory wheels to clear the Cobalt calipers.
 

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Curious that none of these swaps mention anything about maintaining brake balance front to rear...
 

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I changed the pads on factory brakes and it provided a huge performance improvement. I am very happy with the results. If you are looking for appearance over function or tracking the car then going with after market brakes might make sense in my opinion. I don't track my car and find that the improvement provided by the Hawk pads is more than sufficient
 

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It's not just about performance...sometimes it's about feel in your foot too. The Brembo caliper will give you more of a "race style" brake pedal feel. If you've never driven a car with Brembos, I suggest you do. Pedal feel is completely different. You will move the pedal lot less to get the same results.
 

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Does anyone know the weight difference on the conversion compared to the stock brakes with better pads? I would rather have a bit more peddle travel than add unsprung weight to all 4 corners that effects the cars handling.

I am with Rob, my V8 car also has the stock brakes with upgraded Pads and the stopping power and feel for the street is very good. I also do not track day my car were the larger brake area would make a big difference in cooling.

Even 2 or 3 lbs a corner can make a large difference in handling, something that is often overlooked in these conversions in both brakes & wheels & tires.
 
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These cars were tracked quite frequently and successfully with nothing but pad and fluid upgrades when new. Ditching junk OE ceramic pads is by far the biggest improvement you'll make to any system in terms of performance and feel. The only reason to install bigger brakes is because you've significantly increased your ability to accelerate (~400+ hp) and now experience fade on track, or you like the bling.

Speaking of bling - cheap cross-drilled iron rotors are also a joke and a serious safely concern. Not only do they not have nearly enough material removed to save noticable weight, but they have a failure rate near 100% when actually used on track. Every single one cracks between the last drill hole and outer diameter of the rotor. There's a reason no proper race cars run them anymore. Stainless lines have all the stiffness of a paper chinese-finger trap. The improvement comes from replacing the fluid during install.

Edit: Also, you need a brake fluid reservoir that doesn't leak before serious track use.
 

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Phil beat me to it - cross drilling is an old and potentially damaging idea.

Rob, which HP pads did you use? I think that any conceivable braking issue on street driven Kappa can be solved with a suitable pad selection.
 

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TCE Performance Products
TCE makes full Wilwood kits in several diameters. They work great and between the two-piece rotors with aluminum hats and the lightweight calipers, the fronts save quite a bit of weight per side (11lbs each for the 13" rotor kit.) That's actually more per side than the carbon fenders I made, but admittedly, not as cool looking as the fenders.
I've got lots of pics of the kit on my IG.

Phil is right re: the brake reservoir. Even autocross is enough to cause fluid to splash out under hard braking & cornering. Also about the stock brakes-upgraded pads + fresh fluid is most important. Auto-x with a LS3, wide & sticky tires never overheated the stock brakes. Only did a TCE kit because of a hub bolt failure and decided I may as well upgrade since I have to buy new brake parts.
 
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