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+Good luck to the thread starter but I don't think we have heard the last of this.

I think that dealer is full of it.

If it is the clutch switch it sure does not match any symptoms that were given.

Be sure to update us.

Larry.
 

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I'm also glad you got it fixed, but... jumping the car wouldn't suddenly make a bad clutch switch start working.

But, hey - if they fixed it, woohoo!
 

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I'm not sure why, and, no, it doesn't make sense that a parallel 12v connection would produce more energy--unless the jumping source were producing more current than the battery itself.
I'm trying to work my through this one. More current should only happen if the existing battery was bad or sufficiently discharged, or possibly if the terminals were corroded. But, that kind of depends on where the jumper cables were attached. (which sometimes has nothing to do with where they should be attached.)

However, depending on how the cables are configured, it could be providing a better ground.

Maybe OP's car just has a noisy frame. :)

I'd love to hear how they determined that the clutch switch was the fault. You can see the switch activity in a scanner (HPTuners will also show this), so maybe they saw that and swapped out the switch. Or, they guessed, and in the process of replacing the switch and all the other hand-waving, accidentally fixed the real problem. But, I'm not aware of anything near the clutch switch that would cause a no-start other than the switch itself.

This is going to drive me nuts. Thanks.
 

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I'm trying to work my through this one. More current should only happen if the existing battery was bad or sufficiently discharged, or possibly if the terminals were corroded. But, that kind of depends on where the jumper cables were attached. (which sometimes has nothing to do with where they should be attached.)

However, depending on how the cables are configured, it could be providing a better ground.

Maybe OP's car just has a noisy frame. :)

I'd love to hear how they determined that the clutch switch was the fault. You can see the switch activity in a scanner (HPTuners will also show this), so maybe they saw that and swapped out the switch. Or, they guessed, and in the process of replacing the switch and all the other hand-waving, accidentally fixed the real problem. But, I'm not aware of anything near the clutch switch that would cause a no-start other than the switch itself.

This is going to drive me nuts. Thanks.
One point is that the clutch "switch" isn't a switch, it is a transducer.

The only answer I can come up with is that the weakened battery dropped the system voltage low enough that the transducer couldn't reach its calibrated value and prevented the starter from engaging. Adding the charger or boost battery eliminated the voltage drop and let the transducer function correctly.

Your comment about "accidentally fixed the real problem" also makes a lot of sense.
 

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Here is a link to an interesting observation, related to this discussion, about "Diagnostic Blind Spots":

https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2019/02/04/avoid-diagnostic-blind-spots

BTW and FWIW, I know a lot of guys/gals on this list are classic and/or performance car buffs. I recently started getting Hagerty's newsletter, and it often has informative, entertaining, and well-written articles on various car-related subjects. Some occasional nonsense and drivel, as well (and having written plenty of nonsense and drivel myself, I know it when I see it); but when it's good, it's very very good.

We now return you to your previous thread...
 
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