It is definitely a connection problem. We just have to isolate where it is. We are going to hit the easiest things first.
There is a ground wire attached to the front of the engine right above the alternator. It is a fat wire and you cannot miss it. Check that connection make sure it is clean and tight.
If that connection is good you are going to need a piece of wire that will reach from the alternator to the battery. It does not have to be a large wire, we are only going to test voltage with it.
I want you to take the positive test lead and stick it into the positive terminal on the battery. It might be easiest to loosen the terminal some so you can get the test lead between the terminal and post and then tighten up the terminal a little. Place the meter up high enough so you can read it from a distance away. Tape the wire to the negative test lead. Strip the end of the wire first and make sure the bare wire is touching the metal tip on the lead.
Start the car. strip the other end of the wire and touch it to the outside of the alternator. tell me what your voltage is.
Then we are going to do this same kind of a test except hook the negative test lead to the negative terminal and attach the wire to the positive test lead, start the car. touch the wire to the post on the terminal and tell me the voltage.
This is a pretty simple thing to do so we know whether the problem is a ground problem or a positive problem.
The alternator grounds through it's case to the engine block. the block is then grounded to the battery, I have not checked but the block could also be grounded to the frame. I know there is a ground that runs from the battery to the frame. So there is a potential for a connection problem there.
The positive comes off of the alternator and goes to the starter, then from the starter it heads over to the battery. So there is a couple of connection points there but they involve the starter which I know is a real ball buster to get to. So let eliminate everything else and deal with the starter last if the need arises.
We still have not fully removed the possibility that it could be a blown fusible link. Before you do any of the above tests I want you to disconnect the harness that is clipped into the alternator. Then test the voltage at the post without the car running. Tell me what the voltage is. There is the possibility that the fusible link could be toast and the voltage you saw before at the post without the car running was because of one of the wires coming from the ECM. so lets disconnect those and check.
Get prepaired to invest in some good jack stands because you may need them. I am really suspect of the connections at the starter because none of these problems existed before you did the clutch, one of the things you did when doing the clutch was you messed with the wiring at the starter.
Not seeing a ground wire above the alternator. Does this for sure exist on the 2.4L? There's 3 chassis grounds, 2 right next to each other on the left side frame, and the other on right side. There's an engine ground on the opposite side of the block from the alternator, right above the exhaust manifold. Two different ground wires meet there. Further back towards the trans, but on that same side of the car, there's another ground bolted to the engine, hidden a little, almost by the firewall. I've cleaned all these thoroughly months ago to no avail - wire brushed and sanded off dirty areas, inside out. I also cleaned the threads and sockets where they screw in to. Am I missing a major ground somewhere? I see a bracket in the place you described that's holding up an engine cover mounting post, positive wire to starter, and main wiring harness.
Then we are going to do this same kind of a test except hook the negative test lead to the negative terminal and attach the wire to the positive test lead, start the car. touch the wire to the post on the terminal and tell me the voltage.
I want to clarify what you mean here... I get to switch which common denominator of what we're testing by changing from using the
(+) test lead -> (+) battery &
(-) test lead -> (-) alt housing over to
(-) test lead -> (-) battery and I would figure
(+) test lead -> (+) alt via the single large wire post on alternator based off what we're trying to get done but wanted to clarify that is indeed what you're asking since I wasn't sure with how it was worded.
I'll measure these voltages now.
Before you do any of the above tests I want you to disconnect the harness that is clipped into the alternator. Then test the voltage at the post without the car running. Tell me what the voltage is.
On this one, we're measuring
(+) test lead -> (+) alt via its own positive contact again and
(-) test lead -> (-) alt housing to see if disconnecting the field and turn on wires' harness makes a difference? I'm 99% sure we're on the same page, just want to make sure that I'm not measuring something in a different place that could change what values you're expecting and result in a wrong diagnosis because of me. Thank you so much again!
