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gap is 0.035 to 0.030
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Thanks KG!
I may take you up on that offer. Since i paid Trifecta, i do want to pursue it a little further with them before throwing in the towel and starting over first..

The low boost misfire was with the Trifecta tune loaded and before i changed the preload on the wastegate, both at their request.

Now that it is running the stock tune and the preload has changed, i am only getting minor sputtering at high boost. (I also feel like i am so slow) That is the feedback from them i just posted.
Apologies for the lack of clarity.

Now they want me to gap the plugs and pull another log. Willing to try anything. I am still stuck in my head on the issue pre-existing the new turbo but, happy to have it run without sputtering (mostly) as a good starting point.
OK so I picked up a better scanner and pulled these DTCs:

P0689-00 Engine Controls Ignition Relay Feedback Circuit Low Voltage
U2107-00 Lost Communication with Body Control Module
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
So I just took a hard look at the BCM. It was so clean I think it’s dirtier now than it was when I looked at it.
Pulled, cleaned and re-seated all the wire trunks and fuses.
Everything looked absolutely new and spotless.
Trunk Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Auto part Technology
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
PS> anyone know what the lower right green trunk of wire with a white cap on it is for?
Seems like it would be for an accessory I don’t have (maybe TCM for an automatic or..?)
 

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that's a splice pack. just where a butt load of wire all connect together.

what module did the U2107 code come from. the EBCM, TDM, RCDLR and IPC can generate that code.

relay 26 in your underhood fusebox is no good. you should be able to swap it for relay 51 which is the trunk opening relay. see if the sputter goes away.

that relay controls the upstream O2 sensor, wastegate solenoid, evap purge valve, all of your ignition coils.. plus a few other things. if it is clicking off you would most definitely get engine sputters and you would also get DTCs set for the engine running lean or rich.
 
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PS> anyone know what the lower right green trunk of wire with a white cap on it is for?
Seems like it would be for an accessory I don’t have (maybe TCM for an automatic or..?)
That is the low-speed LAN.
 
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P0689 -

U2107 - IPC
The IPC cmmunication problem should not cause any engine issues, and is likely caused by the low voltage condition anyway.
Checking fuses, relays, and grounds is the direction I would be looking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
Well I will take KGs advice and swap 51 for 26.
Looked online figuring I could just get new ones but apparently these relays are no longer made? Was unable to google-fu my way into if there are aftermarket alternatives…
Is it just my search hand is weak or are these yet another part going rare..? You would think there would be thousands of these things lying around
 

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do the swap for the time being to isolate if that is the issue or not. If the DTC still comes up the next step you are gonna have to have your bee bees strapped on tight for. You will need to open the fuse box and check for corrosion. The inside of mine was corroded. It's not hard to take apart you just have to pay close attention when you do.

I am hoping it is just a bad relay, tho it might be troublesome to locate one.
 

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the IPC losing comms I wouldn't worry about. It's not unusual to see those kinds of hiccups so long as the module is still working.

It looks like ya picked up a decent scan tool that queries individual modules and reports what module is faulting.

I am fairly confident the low feedback voltage to that relay is what is causing your sputtering issue. I am honestly shocked that a full DTC scan of the vehicle is not done when you did the logging for Trifecta. You may want to send them an e-mail as they might know something we don't that could cause that problem other then the relay being toast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
the IPC losing comms I wouldn't worry about. It's not unusual to see those kinds of hiccups so long as the module is still working.

It looks like ya picked up a decent scan tool that queries individual modules and reports what module is faulting.

I am fairly confident the low feedback voltage to that relay is what is causing your sputtering issue. I am honestly shocked that a full DTC scan of the vehicle is not done when you did the logging for Trifecta. You may want to send them an e-mail as they might know something we don't that could cause that problem other then the relay being toast.
I did send that info to Trifecta yesterday but I think they are closed in weekends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
I doubt the fuse box is corroded as there has been zero corrosion any where else on the vehicle.

anything is possible though. I’ll save that for when I give up on everything else…
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
that's a splice pack. just where a butt load of wire all connect together.

what module did the U2107 code come from. the EBCM, TDM, RCDLR and IPC can generate that code.

relay 26 in your underhood fusebox is no good. you should be able to swap it for relay 51 which is the trunk opening relay. see if the sputter goes away.

that relay controls the upstream O2 sensor, wastegate solenoid, evap purge valve, all of your ignition coils.. plus a few other things. if it is clicking off you would most definitely get engine sputters and you would also get DTCs set for the engine running lean or rich.
Welp, swapped the relays, no difference :(
Worth a shot.
 

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That it was. have you cleared the code and did the code come back?
 

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It may not be a bad relay. it could be a connection issue in either a clip at the ECM or the inline clip that is beneath the under hood fuse box. Both of those can get water on them if the car is say pointed downhill and if there is so much as a pine needle sitting between the seal on the wiper cowl and the hood. I had some corrosion on the inline clip, you need to use a magnifying glass to see it. If you have an android device download an app called Cozy Magnifier, it's a pretty amazing app with what it can do. Use that to look at the pins in the clips and on the ECM. If the code comes back let me know and I will dig up the wire color and also a diagram of the clips so you will know what pin in the clips you need to be checking.


The circuit for the relay makes a loop. It's kind of goofy actually. The ECM is what triggers the relay. The output from the relay feeds the exhaust VVT solenoid, intake VVT solenoid, upstream O2 sensor, MAF/IAT sensor, all 4 ignition coils and the goofy part is it also supplies power back to the ECM on 3 different pins. So if the ECM is seeing a voltage anomaly on that circuit it sets the DTC you are seeing. So if there is a connection problem on that circuit the ECM will see it. That wire is a long bugger. It comes out of the bottom of the fuse box and follows the frame to the nose of the car where it crosses to the drivers side just behind the bumper cover then it goes down the frame on the drivers side to the ECM.

Here is the wiring diagram for the relay ad the circuits it powers. Each circuit has it's own fuse and it's own wire coming out of the bottom of the fuse box.


Rectangle Product Slope Font Parallel



The wires highlighted in yellow are the circuits the relay controls.

I know this is going to sound a little crazy but if you unplug the VVT solenoids, turbo bypass solenoid, wastegate actuator solenoid, MAF and each of the 4 coils as well as disconnect the battery on the car Then one clip at a time you put the clip into a bowl/pot of boiling hot water and splash it about you will see all kinds of crap some out of the clips. use compressed air to thoroughly dry each clip. Because the circuits are all connected at the relay if there is a poor connection at any of those sensors an excessive amount of current can be pulled and this would cause a voltage drop on everything attached to the relay. The relay is only going to allow so much current to cross it's contacts before the voltage starts to drop. If you look at the design of the circuit it's actually kind of stupid. It's a 30 amp relay that has 55 amps worth of fuses. Is it possible to overload the relay without blowing a fuse?? Without a doubt and a bad connection at any of the sensors could cause an excess current draw that may not blow a fuse by may overload the relay especially the solenoids and the coils.

Try cleaning the connections on those solenoids, coils and sensors and see if that takes care of the problem. There are 2 other people I have helped that had problems with this same circuit and cleaning the clips fixed the problem. I don't know which clip is the one that causes an issue as I told the people to clean all of them. Just make sure they are really dry before reconnecting them and make sure the battery is fully disconnected both power and ground and the system is completely discharged. To discharge the system touch the battery terminal clamps together after they are disconected from the battery!!.

I am trying to give you some ideas on what to do that is the easiest to do and also the cheapest. from this point you would have to do a resistance check on each of the circuits connected to that relay so you can isolate the circuit that is having an issue.
 
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Just make sure they are really dry before reconnecting them
You can spray them with contact cleaner after blow drying the connectors with compressed air, this will aid removing water. Then give it another once over with compressed air. If you have silicone/dielectric grease, apply a thin film of it with a needle into the connectors pins, this will not hamper contact and will prevent further corrosion...
 

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It's not a corrosion issue with those clips. It's just crap getting into them that does it.
 
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