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I would dielectric as it is non conductive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
More data.
As per Dave Gilbert at Werks recommendations I am now gapped down to .26 and Trifecta BWK04 tune reloaded.
Car is running much better and only sputters on WOT pulls when shifting between 2nd and 3rd.
Still haven’t had a chance to run a scan.
Will post with those results.

still not sure why it was sputtering hard and staying in sputtering mode for minutes at a time and now just on a real hard pull. Keep in mind the sputter started on stock turbo/stock plugs gapped at .32
And continued into new plugs new turbo gapped at .32 AND before the suspect tank of gas ran great on stock turbo and plugs at 32.

guesses:
-With the endless rounds of tbolt tightening and heating / cooling cycles, maybe the new silicone hoses needed to “settle”?

-tighter gap has vastly improved things but still not 100% stable. I get a very rare backfire here and there. I have read other threads where people poo pooed the high voltage coils (like ZZP offers) but isn’t this exactly the scenario where they would make sense?

-boost on the current tune is still held back at 22-23 PSI. Would stronger coils get me to 25? Would it be better for the engine (burning cleaner)
 

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22-23 PSI is all you are going to get from the turbo and still have reliability. The big wheel turbo is still a K04 turbo so still the same bearing and shaft. Those are only designed to handle so much stress and RPM and that hasn't changed at all with the big wheel. As said before the only gain is you will not have falloff at high engine RPM due to the turbo not moving enough air volume.

with the mods you have done you should see 350 to 360 bhp. You can push the turbo more if you want, I wouldn't recommend it.
 

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I don't think you are having spark blow out issues because of coil voltage.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious
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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
well gonna do some more logging and scanning and will post that info when i have it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Lost my turbo entirely on the drive into work this morning. Car actually ran great, just 0 boost and scanned a P0299 (underboost - yeah duh).

drove home again car ran great but like the turbo didn’t exist and expected it to be something easy as when I lost the turbo there were no bangs or smoke.

sure enough the wastegate nut had fallen off so that was a nice easy fix.

car is now pulling up to 25 PSI at peak and definitely blowing out the sparks starting around 23-24 PSI.

trifecta offered to set the tune to max at 23 and I may take them up on it but first I realized this will be a good opportunity to see if the supposed high voltage coils do anything for the issue. Theoretically if they are worth anything this would be the scenario to prove it as I have brand new NGKs on here and can do a comparison now that I have isolated the sputter to the outer PSI limits of the BwK04.

ultimately I would like to back my .26 gaps back a bit and they are advertised to support that, however first I want to test them out.

I have come up with very little info on their actual performance online so hopefully this little experiment will be helpful to a future person.

I will post results on them when I get a chance, assuming it should happen sometime next week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
PS> another +1 for Dave at Werks for his support. I paid for the ceramic painting in the turbo and it burned off in less than 2 days. He offered me a polished heat shield gratis to make it up to me and it just arrived.
FNA Dave. You Rock!
Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Automotive air manifold Black Automotive design
 

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So, your sputtering is from spark blow out at high rpm? I thought some posts back you had issues under mild throttle? Did that resolve itself after you changed to new ngk plugs? Also, why does your shield look like it has wrinkles in it? I don’t think mine does, is it a different type heat shield?
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 · (Edited)
The one he sent has wrinkles. When I looked closer at my stock shield it has wrinkles on the bottom-ish side… much harder to notice when it’s not polished. Being as it was free I am grateful he offered it :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
I still have no firm idea as to what the sputter was as I initially had it. It was seemingly random and intermittent but threw misfire codes and shook the engine bay and occasionally backfired with a bam. It happened at all RPMs.
So it was not a minor thing. It felt like diving it was bad for the motor.
But then I could usually put it in neutral and rev the engine up a few times and the sputter would stop only to come back a minute later.
It happened before and after I gapped the plugs down but it was significantly less.
and yes gapping the plugs down from .32 to .28 helped significantly with the sputtering at lower RPM but didn’t entirely eliminate it. And also didn’t make sense as a solution as the car ran its whole life with the stock plugs at .32 with no problems.

The battery is 8 months old and tested fine.

I replaced the plugs, coils, VVT solenoids, checked and cleaned are the wires and connectors, it’s a new cat but checked and retorqued the entire exhaust, pulled and reseated the IC, charge pipes and related hoses multiple times, replaced the turbo actuator solenoid, both MAFs, checked the BCM, ECM connecters, pulled and cleaned and reseated the fuses in the fuse box, checked the grounds and battery terminal connectors, and flashed multiple tunes from Stock to Trifecta K04 to Trifecta BWK04.

About the only things left are the alternator (battery shows 14.39 when car is running so probably not unless it’s an intermittent issue), some type of short in the harness to the coils (again unlikely as it was all four cylinders). After that I am stumped other than falling back on the bad gas theory.

the only thing that changed in the car from when it was running tip top and the sputter was the tank of gas. Unfortunately I had also, a couple days before the tank of gas replaced the rubber throttle body hose with the DDM Silicone one so it is possible it “settled” in over a few days and got loose so I kept tightening the t-bolt clamps as much as I could each time I was doing something else (so much so that I broke one).
So it’s also possible that was a contributing factor, though they were always so tight the hose was bulging around the clamps.

No one single thing fixed it so it seems likely it would have been bad gas being diluted by New gas over time. The only thing I didn’t try was to completely empty the gas tank and start over with a fresh one as was suggested. If it ever happens again that will be the first thing I do.

it is going to drive me nutty that I can’t pinpoint why the problem seems to have currently gone away (except when I am at high boost) and that I got those low voltage codes at one point.

I will keep this thread alive if and when I get some usuable data to present as I know myself well enough to know I won’t be able to let this go :)
 

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if the max boost in your tune is set to 23 psi that is normal to see it max at 25psi. it takes a bit for the boost pressure to settle in. You may not see it happen because you now have the big wheel turbo which moves enough volume of air. with the K04 you could see it settle in because the amount of air it was moving would tap out around 5800 RPM.

Call Dave over at Werks and ask him the number of turns you need to be at in order to have that wastegate adjusted properly. that adjustment doesn't change the max boost or anything like that. what it does control is at what PSI the wastegate starts opening at. So if it is not set properly it could be that the turbo is spooling up in a manner that would cause your spark blowout. Having the car have a linear increase in power is always ideal. it makes the car easier to operate and predictable. That is more of what the adjustment does. An ICE engine has a specific point where everything is in harmony and it is operating at peak efficiency. Air moves through the engine easier and that can cause a non linear increase in boost pressure. It will feel like you pressed the NOS button if the wastegate adjustment is way off.

Play with the adjustment some by moving it closer to the actuator and further away you will notice a change in how the car boosts. It's like it does this.

This would be a non linear increase in boost pressure.
Slope Rectangle Parallel Font Pattern


that adjustment is going to control this aspect.
While you probably won't be able to make the increase perfectly linear it is defiantly going to make the vehicle easier to operate.
If you notice the max output never changes.

Slope Parallel Rectangle Font Pattern


So by telling the wastegate to start opening a little bit sooner it controls how fast the turbo builds pressure. The top graph would be the wastegate starting to open at a higher pressure and it has to open a whole lot faster in order to throttle the turbo. where as the second graph is the wastegate starts to open at a lower pressure and this gives the ECM better control of the boost pressure allowing a more linear increase.

This is where it gets tricky with the LNF. The spark heat (voltage) is not a constant. it changes and it does so based on input parameters from sensors and how the tune tables are set up so that the ECM knows what it needs to do. If the pressure builds faster then the ECM is able to react you will get blow out. If the tune tables are not correct and there isn't enough spark with the given input parameters, you will get spark blow out.

Get that adjustment nut to where you want and where you feel it is in it's optimal position for your driving style. Then have trifecta tune it so it eliminate the spark blow out. They will tell you if they are not able to eliminate it and you may have to make some slight adjustments so the ECM is able to keep up in it's decision making. They should be able to eliminate it through the tune and have the coils kick out a hotter spark sooner then it is.
 

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also, I was looking at the photo you took of the heat shield. Why is there no heat shield cap over your ECT sensor? you really need to have one as the radiant heat from the turbo will throw off what that sensor is reading for engine coolant temp. Did you take it off and forget to put it back over the clip before plugging the sensor back in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
also, I was looking at the photo you took of the heat shield. Why is there no heat shield cap over your ECT sensor?
that’s the way it was when I first took it apart.
Can you shoot me a photo of yours?
I assume this is a missing part, I am almost afraid to start googling it…
 

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You are going to have to make one if you do not have it. it's like 2" tall and maybe 1.5" in diameter. one end is open completely and the other end has flaps. The original one is made from plastic and then wrapped in heat protective tape. The end that has the flaps is so you can push the clip through it and have it close back up around the wire. I would use a round metal tin used to hold something like tea or whatever. Drill a hole in the one end that is large enough so just the wiring harness would fit and then using a set of tin snips cut up the side of it all the way to the hole you just drilled so you can slip the harness into it. You should be able to stretch a rubber sheet metal grommet over the clip and onto the harness, slip the harness into the cut you just made and then finagle the grommet into position in the hole. You can use some aluminum tape and wrap it around the thing to conceal the slit you made or you can just position the slit so it is pointing down so you can't see it.

It just slides down the wire and goes over the back end of the sensor like a cap. Just keeps the really high temperatures from effecting the sensor reading.
 

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I will get you photos and exact measurements tomorrow.
 

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Oh sweet. I didn't think it would be something you would even be able to get except from a pick and pull and you almost never see a Kappa at one of those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
Oh sweet. I didn't think it would be something you would even be able to get except from a pick and pull and you almost never see a Kappa at one of those.
Thanks for the call out, I never even knew it was missing.
 

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Actually Werks ended up having one for a couple dollars on their website (found via a google search), ordered :)
HHG,

Where on their website did you find it? I've just spent over an hour and am apparently missing it. A link would be nice.

Thanks,

Richard Snipes
 
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