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So my clutch line was rubbing against the body seam and eventually caused a failure. If any of you had had to replace that line, you know you have had to remove the transmission in order to disconnect the one end from the slave cylinder. Well I wasn't looking to spend the day pulling the transmission AGAIN. So I sent a message over to Dave at Performance Autowerks and asked if he had any solution. In true Dave form he responded with a resounding "Ya, I know how to save you a ton of time." Basically you cut out the bad rubber part of the line and install compression fittings to the nubs of hose you have left and drop a braided line in between the two connectors I found a local supplier and had the car fixed in under an hour. So thanks again Dave for saving the day.
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Good solution!

I'm not a fan of HTOB release bearings - haven't looked under there when my Solstice was on the hoist to see if it is really needed due to lack of room, or if they just used one because they like them (and probably like the re and re costs they can generate for dealers).

The MG engine conversion guys often use them and I tell them that next time their slave goes and they have to pull the engine (can't just pull the trans on those cars) I'll be telling them how my external slave is a half hour replacement job.

At least you had a quick fix. GM seems to have an odd liking for creating long steel lines with integral flex lines at the ends, that can't easily be replaced. Just had a clutch line start leaking on my 88 Fiero - a back to front line with captive flex hose. I had the option of buying a couple of hundred buck GM line, or doing what I ended up doing - just make up a new steel line, with a few loops of about 4" diameter on the end at the transaxle to take up any flex (there isn't much transaxle movement as I have stiff mounts and a poly mounted limiting 'dogbone' strut).
 

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So my clutch line was rubbing against the body seam and eventually caused a failure. If any of you had had to replace that line, you know you have had to remove the transmission in order to disconnect the one end from the slave cylinder. Well I wasn't looking to spend the day pulling the transmission AGAIN. So I sent a message over to Dave at Performance Autowerks and asked if he had any solution. In true Dave form he responded with a resounding "Ya, I know how to save you a ton of time." Basically you cut out the bad rubber part of the line and install compression fittings to the nubs of hose you have left and drop a braided line in between the two connectors I found a local supplier and had the car fixed in under an hour. So thanks again Dave for saving the day.
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hi i have the same problem on my red line can you find out if i have to remove parts to get to the line to fix
 
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