legion said:I concur. I have always followed the same methodology.
I do know that Mercedes likes to use Mobil 1 0W-40 on their AMG cars. The funny thing is that certain blends of Mobil 1 are higher quality than that of other blends. And I'm talking Synthetic. I found this site to be interesting <a href="http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html"> MB recommended weights from a third party site </a>. Apparently, <a href="http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php">not all synthetics are blended equally?</a> I also uses the 0W-40 blend in my current Sentra. The service manual recommended a range from 5w-30 to 10w-40. I figured that 0w-40 is in that range. In oil, 0w is actually 5w, it just has a lower flow temparature than standard 5w, but flows the same exact viscosity.PAS22 said:I am a big syn fan. Used synthetic everything in our race cars (maybe should have used a synthetic driver or two). I am not sure but I think some vehicles come with synthetic oil straight form the factory. Double check with your dealer, so called breakin oils may not be used any longer. If not, then after the breakin period is when I would change to full syn.
Any suggestions on a good dino oil? which brand specifically? and does anyone know for cetain if pontiac IS using the low tension rings?garytucker said:Coming from the technician side...the manufacturers are using low tension rings quite a bit now...it takes a LONG time for these engines to break in...up to 10K! I would still change the oil at 1000 then at 3K, then every 3K till 10K. Then switch to synthetic...until that time use a GOOD dino based oil...castrol or mobil...that way the engine gets a good break in. Don't buy into this leave it in for 7500miles crap on dino oil...just a way to make the customer feel that the car is cheaper to maintain...and when the engine wears out...guess what....new engine you purchase from the dealer...I go 6K on Synthetic in my current Vette...at 110K on the odometer...the engine still is as clean as new on the heads...and still going strong.
Oh, there can be a huge difference between the synthetics. Some synthetics use only group III base stock to formulate their synthetic oils (like castrol, this is not as highly refined or re-worked like group IV) while Mobil 1 uses group IV (paoephylenes sp? or just PAO for short) as their base stock, which is much better refined. This is because some companies can get away with using the lower grade stock because of the definition of synthetic. Years ago, Mobil sued Castrol for calling its Synthetic oil line a true Synthetic, but instead they just re-defined the meaning of synthetic. Mobil still uses group IV base stock to refine its oil though. I'm not sure on other brands, but I think Amsoil also uses group IV, and maybe Pennzoil, you may have to check on Pennzoil. I also know Royal Purple is group IV as well.Sol Cruisin said:OK, I admit it, I know next to nothing about Syn oil. I know the name Mobil 1 and that is about it. From this thread it appears I need to consider using syn in my Sol (that sounds weird).
So, here is my uneducated question: Is there a significant difference between brands / syns? If so, which is best? (Yea, I'm betting that is a new can of worms)
DLD84 said:Wow everybody welcome to the first inaugural class of CA's automotive school! :lol: All jokes aside thanks for the wealth of information, youve got a knack for really laying things out on the table. Which is good! that being said. One more question.
Near the end of your post you mentioned taking a car out for a nice cruise to work the varnish off the cylinders that builds up after short one mile trips, if basically all you do is city driving, for me its been work-home-work-home lately, about 10-15 miles of stop and go, do you think the same thing is needed? Not like I wouldnt mind crusing down the highway all the time in this baby, Id love it! but I also want to take really good care of this car, so Im making a good maintenance log to follow
Sooooo for these remotely mounted oil filters, how do they differ exactly from the normal ones? and it seems the Ecotec I-4 in our cars have an oil jet that continually sprays cool(er) oil onto the bottoms of the cylinders to keep things running coolr, would an in line oil cooler increase the benefit of that? Im going to make mine into one big mod :lol: Going to look up System One and Oberg now :willy:PAS22 said:Just a couple more thoughts on this subject (believe it or not this came to me at 3AM last night, I am spending way too much time on this forum! :lol: )
If you switch to syn you will have a tendancy like most of us to leave your oil in longer than the recommended oil change interval. Afterall that is what a full synthetic was originally designed for, a least from marketing standpoint. If you do, make sure you use a good quality long life oil filter. Cheap paper element filters will clog quickly and syn or not you will soon have a useless filter. K&N and other brands make long life filters, their well worth the extra few bucks.
Another option inspired from my racing experience are remotely mounted oil filters. These allow you to use a cleanable larger capacity high quality filter cartridge. (you will never have to buy a filter again, so they pay for themselves eventually). System One and Oberg are some types and brands. This gives you the added benefit of increased oil capacity and ease of maintenance. And if you really like to wrench you can then add an in line oil cooler at the same time!
Just my two cents worth.